Sounds like a decorative egg holder to me, but hush-hush it is.
Would anyone be able to recommend a good cheap 1 inch scope mount for this light?
(You twist the body tube/tail cap area to zoom in and out on the Brinyte. You twist the head on the other light to zoom in and out.)
But isn’t it the same thing ? One you grab the tail and twist the head, the other you hold on to the head and twist the tail ? 
On my UF1503 I just grab both head and body and crank both my hands in opposite directions at the same time (the 1503 takes 3 full turns to go from spot to flood).
Edit-ok I can see the advantage when mounted on a gun, plus the zoom travel occurs in the body tube, not on the flash head. My bad
Just be kind on my skills as a modder and solder-er. Is that a word? I was lucky, because I didn’t have to remove the ring, and the driver was a very tight press fit.
I hadn’t - but I did now, guess I didn’t notice the link to the vid in the OP before, but since I watched your (excellent) video everything is clear now and I want one, maybe two! I like how when it’s gun mounted you can easily zoom with the tail! Much better for that.
“zoomers, zoomables, lunchables, zoomies, mileys” So funny 
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I’m not a hunter but I’m into guns and like to shoot, I have a 1250fps air rifle I’d like to mount this on, it’s accurate out to 100+ yards, it’s a “Sniper style” rifle and it has the tactical/picatinny rails for mounting, I think this light would be pretty cool on it for night time plinking/varmit hunting. I did a bit of reading tonight on using the red/green colors for that, so I’m learning.
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I guess I’d get a red color one, plus an empty pill to build a DD w/dedomedXPG2, if it’s not too late to get in on the deal.
Your welcome (happy to share my ignorence :party: ) and thanks for the info link. :) I've started reading, but -unfortunately- that's all there is to do, since there are no pics. If I manage to make a guide with pictures of the flashlight parts and their names, I'll post it. You (meaning everyone) could check it and tell me if it's correct.
After all the searching-reading I've done, I've realized (don't lough... I had no idea about the way a led flashlight is made
) that in the pill of the B158 is the driver and over the driver is the MCPCB where the LED is mounted.
- At the bottom part of the driver must be the (upper) spring.
- At the upper part of the driver must be the electronics (chips) and the wires that get soldered at the upper part of the MCPCB (beside the LED).
What's confusing me, is that I've seen pics of drivers that -as I understand- their electronics and the spring are in the 2 sides of the same plate (e.g. the BLF A6 driver @ bg or the driver proposed by KKW), but the original B158's 105c driver (as I see it in KKW's post #93) seems to have 2 plates (like 2 floors), 1 (upper) for the electronics and 1 (bottom) for the spring (this driver also seems to have 2 plates-floors).
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What's going on? There are 1-floor and 2-floors drivers? :~
What I'm also not sure if I've understood well, is how these 2 parts (1 or 2-floors driver and MCPCB) stay in their place (attached to the pill). By all the reading I've done at this topic, my understanding is that for attaching the MCPCB to the B158's pill we use thermal adhesive that -as I guess- we place around the upper part of the MPCBC (the part that touches the pill - the green area I've highlighted at the following pic). Is my understanding correct? :quest:
So, supposing the MCPCB stays in place with the thermal adhesive, the driver needs soldering from the down (outside) part of the pill (like we can see at a random pill in the following pic).
Have I understood well? :quest:
And what about the ring? Is it placed as I'm guessing and trying to show-verify in the following pic of mhanlen's post #96? :quest:
Well... I know it's most probably a stupid question because of my ignorence, but what about the space (gap) between the MCPCB and the driver? Isn't it possible that it'll be too big (so the MCPCB might fall in it if the thermal adhesive doesn't do the job) or too small (if it's a 2 plates-floors driver we're using)?
I'd really like to get one KKW, but since I live in Greece, I'm affraid shipping cost will be quite high... :~
Ok, I’ll post more info about this mod tomorrow. I’m off to bed. Here it is though, as promised.
Great idea
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Not yet having this light myself I’ll try to give some answers here from what I know, and for this light from what I see and understand from this thread, hopefully someone who has the light can confirm.
Yes.
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Usually the two “floors” are connected to each other with soldered pins (making the connections instead of the wires on the stock B158 driver) so it is in effect one piece, then secured/grounded with wither a retaining ring or tacked with solder.
On the B158 it appears the upper board (with components) is secured inside the pill by the press fit retaining ring, and the lower part (with spring) is held in place by a “press fit” between its edge and the ID of the pill.
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No, the paste goes directly underneath the MCPCB, between the flat underside of the MCPCB and the flat top end of the pill. Or it can be soldered, attached by flowing solder paste there. You can use thermal paste instead of adhesive paste because there is a plastic retainer that screws in to hold the MCPCB down tight to the pill, that way it can be removed easily later if needed.
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To install the new driver it can either be soldered to the ring then the driver/ring assembly is “press fitted” into the pill. Or, the new driver can be installed without the ring by securing/grounding it directly to the pill in a few spots with solder between the grounding ring around the edge of the driver and the pill.
More commonly in other flashlights the driver retaining ring and pill are threaded so you just screw it down on the driver inside the pill, like this photo of a Convoy S6 pill:
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You may not be seeing this but the pill is constructed with an “end plate” between the driver cavity and the MCPCB, in other words is not a hollow tube, the MCPCB sits atop this flat end with the paste between as I described above. There are holes in the flat end for the wires leading from the driver to the led.
So the MCPCB cannot fall down into the driver. You can see that in this photo:
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EDIT: the ^mhanlen’s mod video^ in the previous post should help clear things up.
Thanks for making this! You make the mod look so easy!
I’ve had the Acebeam T20 under consideration, were you one of the participants in the Global Testing Campaign?
The Tint of the Acebeam appears warmer/nicer than the modded Brynite, but they are both XPL-HI v2 3C ?
On some newer lights there is no pill but a flat area machined for the mcpcb milled as part of the head with a hollow area behind it for the driver that has threads machined for a retaining ring. This gives the best thermal transfer but loses the quick swap ability that a separate pill offers. It’s also a pain to work on since all soldering is done within the confines of the head instead of out in the open.
This is my first time to buy from gearbest. Where can i find the option for the tracking number? Is it after you place an order?
Great video 
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I never owned a zoomie so please bear with me. Could someone explain why is led so deep inside the pill and that plastic thing/holder is covering it almost completely. It surely results in loss of light. Is this some kind of a focusing must or this is just a easy way to hold/insulate the led inside the pill. Is there a room for improvement regarding better light output? Maybe raising the led towards lens?
With a zoomie the distance from the led to the lens is adjustable so the led being deep in the pill is not an issue and raising it would prevent the light from being able to focus the die. Also, pretty much only the light hitting the lens directly from the die gets focused so covering the sides of the dome isn’t an issue either.
Thanks .
Yep… I did a test for the Acebeam T20. I had to replace the LED though because I shaved the emitter off during testing. These should be about the same tint. The optics on the Brinyte take out some of the goldeness of the tint, even though it’s the same emitter. If you focus the beam of the Brinyte then look at the hotspot of the T20, the centers are almost the same color. Putting the Brinyte at full flood though, does seem to take out some of the warmness. Also the image of dedomed XPL HI is very clear at full zoom. The XML2 has a slightly smoother image at full focus. I have more pills on order, so I may drop in a dedomed XP-G2 in the Brinyte in the future.
As far as the mod. It too me much longer than you see in the video. It took me much longer to put in the driver. Minute amounts of shaving with my file then going to find that tiny plastic hammer, because my banging with the leatherman and a screwdriver back wasn’t making the driver go in. There was a lot of me retrying stuff and getting my method right, to get it to work. While I could leave all of my trial and error in, it would make for a much longer- boring video. I also have a monitor for my camera on order so I can see the shot and framing better, when I do one of these again.
It should be on the shipping option page. There’s about 10 different types of shipping- I want to say it comes before it takes you to paypal? Tracking should be one of those check boxes.
Thanks! I tried to add a few jokes in the video, although there wasn’t much room for them. These things can be so tedious at times… and the lightsaber gag wouldn’t have happened if it wasn’t so foggy the first night I tried to do beamshots.
Mhanlen,
Modding... Movie atmosphere... I think you are talented as director and camerman.
My modding style is almost completely different than yours.
So 185 000 cd with XPL is almost same as with modded UF1503 flashlight so I cant say I am impressed with results but they are good.
But if you got 185kcd without bridged springs? That is different story indeed...
Can the red / green LED’s be driven harder with a better driver, would a better LED be recommended for that?
Does anyone know where to buy the latest/greatest color LED’s pre-mounted on copper base?
The mtn electronics driver comes with bridges springs on the positive end. But the tail cap is stock on my light and had a metal sleeve over the spring too. I’m not the poster child for modding. It tends to take me a while, and I don’t have be best soldering skills. But, my light works, and I can shoot a mostly clear video on my method… Even though it isn’t the most ideal method.
Thanks! I used multiple lenses while I did it, to keep the shot interesting. You can see a few sitting in my “work” area.
@ mhanlen: You 're a :star: !!! Thanks a lot for the fantastic DIY tutorial video.
Question: At ~2'50" of your video, it's clear that the wires from the driver are quite longer than needed for soldering them to the MCPCB.
So, what are you doing with the extra length of the wires? Are you cutting it, or you push (the part you don't need) back, at the remaining space between the driver's electronics and the "end plate" that the MCPCB sits atop? I'm asking because I wouldn't like to jeopardize the result by doing a wrong move at the end.
Here it is: An attempt for parts "terminology guide with pictures" for newbies!
Credits to all of you who helped me begin understanding what's going on with flashlights. :)
[quote=beam0]
On the B158 it appears the upper board (with components) is secured inside the pill by the press fit retaining ring, and the lower part (with spring) is held in place by a "press fit" between its edge and the ID of the pill. [/quote]
Got it for the rest, thanks for your reply! :)
Regarding the above part quoted: In ~2'10" of mhanlen's fantastic DIY tutorial video :star:, it's clear that the B158's pill has "1 floor" driver inside. I don't get it why KKW's pic @ post#93 shows 2 parts. :~
I originally explained this, but took a line of dialog out about it because I accidentally did it off camera and cut it out.
You can tuck a certain amount inside of the pill… I cut off a few millimeters with my knife on each lead because no more would fit inside of the pill… The wires need to come right out of the pill and go directly to the pads. If there’s any slack outside of the pill the spacers have a hard time fitting. In my video I have just a tad too much. The white plastic disc was a bit harder to tighten down. I also may have just a hair too much solder on the pads if we’re nitpicking.