Brinyte B158 Flashlight GB- Ordering is a GO with coupon, all details in the OP! Updated: 12-09-15

[luminarium_iaculator]

@beam0

@Kloepper Knife Works

You need 4 parts to hit 300kcd+. A dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon, solder or thermal adhesive to mount it, a good FET driver like the 17mm MTN-DD driver, and a wire jumper on the tailcap spring. All of these should be easy to order from the Mountain Electronics international store.

In comparison what advantages/disadvantages would there be between this and a similarly equipped UF-1503? And (besides being smaller), performance wise how would it compare to the UF-1405/1504? (edited)

KKW does not have 1503.

Maybe better watter resistance although 1503 is also watter and splash resistant.

And most important better throw (about 10-20% better if we look KKW modded data)

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing.

They are booth good flashlights but throw factor always prevails :)

[evankouros]

@mhanlen

I threw in an XPL HI 16mm, and the plastic spacer fits it perfectly.

Waiting for the video guide/tutorial, can you please confirm that the XPL HI 16mm you wrote is this? I'd also like to know why you've chosen it instead of this that KKW proposed. Maybe because the one in the first link it's "factory dedomed"?

@Rufusbduck

KGB, the A6 driver can also be ordered from BangGood but won’t have the same high quality parts nor can it be ordered with the bypass already done so like me you’ll just have to suck it up and get better at soldering. Get a decent iron and use flux and size the tip and temp for the job. Only experience will make any difference after that. I still suck but I do it anyway.

Got it for A6 driver, thanks for you answer. ΒΤW, I'm sure I suck more than you in soldering, but I totally agree with your "just do it!" point. 8)

[mhanlen]

@KGB

@mhanlen

I threw in an XPL HI 16mm, and the plastic spacer fits it perfectly.

Waiting for the video guide/tutorial, can you please confirm that the XPL HI 16mm you wrote is this? I’d also like to know why you’ve chosen it instead of this that KKW proposed. Maybe because the one in the first link it’s “factory dedomed”?

@Rufusbduck

KGB, the A6 driver can also be ordered from BangGood but won’t have the same high quality parts nor can it be ordered with the bypass already done so like me you’ll just have to suck it up and get better at soldering. Get a decent iron and use flux and size the tip and temp for the job. Only experience will make any difference after that. I still suck but I do it anyway.

Got it for A6 driver, thanks for you answer. ΒΤW, I’m sure I suck more than you in soldering, but I totally agree with your “just do it!” point. 8)

Yes that will fit. I ordered a neutral tint. If it’s a 16mm Noctigon XPL HI… It fits. I keep my mods simple, and I haven’t gotten into de-doming LEDs yet. Since dedomed xpg2s are so popular I feel like they probably outthrow the XPL HIs. But you’ll have to ask someone who knows for sure. KKW probably knows the answer.

I’m not a highly skilled modder… I just can make and edit a decent tutorial video. I think user Old Lumens makes some better videos… So I recommend watching some of his videos too.

[pilotdog68]

A dedomed XP-G2 will out-throw an XP-L (Domed, dedomed, or HI) in most situations, but the HI is definitely easier*, and might get you a few more total lumens.

…………………
*While the HI is still easier, dedoming is not hard, it just takes a few practice tries to get the hang of it. Many people use gas/chemical dedoming when they are starting out, but I broke more that way than I did with “hot” dedoming.
My method:

1. Use a hobby/exacto knife to start a small cut at the base of the dome opposite of the bond wires
2. connect a power source to the led and place on some kind of a small heatsink (you want the phosphors on top to get hot, not damage the led)
3. run for 20-40 seconds at at least 2 amps
4. immediately after removing power, use the blade of the exacto to “flip” the dome over, pushing from the side you made the cut towards the side with the bond wires.

I’ve only damaged 1 led out of about 30 doing it this way, and it only takes about a minute.

[Kloepper_Knife_Works]

What ^ said. In order of throw assuming driven hard. In a 1 cell light the line between the domed XP-G2 and dedomed XP-L/XM-L2 is much closer and might flip because of the XP-L and XM-L2 being able to pull more current in a single cell setup. Dedomed the XP-G2 is king for throw in this size lens/power class.

Dedomed XP-G2
XP-G2
Dedomed XP-L/XM-L2
XP-L HI (throw is close to the dedomed option)
XP-L/XM-L2

[evankouros]

Thanks for your answers. :)

Reading this topic solves lot's of "don't knows" I have, but also creates new ones! :p

I'm sure I wouldn't like in my first attempt for a modded flashlight to try dedoming the LED, so I'll stick to a dedomed one. It's good news that there are solutions out there, offering "factory dedomed" LEDs (like the XPL HI 16mm mhanlen wrote) or "dedome option" with an extra charge (like the XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon KKW wrote). What's really confusing for somebody ignorent like me, is that there are a lot of solutions (e.g. here are some for XP-G2 on Noctigon 16mm MCPCB) and... who knows which one to select! :~

BTW, yesterday I tried to find pictures with all the parts of a LED flashlight (that's what I was meaning as "terminology with pictures" @ post #262), in order to understand how a modern LED flashlight is made and the names used to describe all these parts (e.g. pill, spring, tailcap, driver, emmiter, etc-etc). Unfortunately my search was not succesfull. Does anybody have a relative link to share?

[beam0]

@KGB

BTW, yesterday I tried to find pictures with all the parts of a LED flashlight (that’s what I was meaning as “terminology with pictures” @ post #262), in order to understand how a modern LED flashlight is made and the names used to describe all these parts (e.g. pill, spring, tailcap, driver, emmiter, etc-etc). Unfortunately my search was not succesfull. Does anybody have a relative link to share?

Try this:
http://flashlightwiki.com/Main_Page

KGB, your questions and everyone’s answers are quite educational for me as well, thanks!

[beam0]

@mhanlen

@beam0

Is it necessary to get the extra pill if you are going to swap out the driver and ledboard?

Are the extra pills being ordered to have the capability for quick swaps to an different LED type/color, or because it’s too hard getting the driver out (and/or causes damage)?

So I finally did mine, and it came out kind of easily… I did damage the original driver because it was soldered from the inside. I would say the spare pill is necessary for those people who don’t want to damage the driver and solder the driver from the inside That ring should make it fairly easy. Soldering the negative to the ring on the inside will make for a flicker free light. I got lucky and mine made good contact by pressing it into place.

Thanks, so what I’m understanding is the ring is “press in fit” instead of the usual threaded/screw in ring, and soldering to the ring only is easier because it’s not thick as the pill itself, so you would solder the driver to the ring first, then press the driver/ring assembly into the pill.

Also it sounds like if I do use the ring it would make future removal/swap of the driver harder, possible trashing the new driver in the process. I do have a butane torch, so I think I’d try tinning the inside of the pill prior to setting the driver in, therefore making it easier to solder bridges for grounding/securing it, and also retain the ability to just de-solder the bridges for driver removal/swap with less chance of damage.

[beam0]

@luminarium iaculator

@beam0

@Kloepper Knife Works

You need 4 parts to hit 300kcd+. A dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon, solder or thermal adhesive to mount it, a good FET driver like the 17mm MTN-DD driver, and a wire jumper on the tailcap spring. All of these should be easy to order from the Mountain Electronics international store.

In comparison what advantages/disadvantages would there be between this and a similarly equipped UF-1503? And (besides being smaller), performance wise how would it compare to the UF-1405/1504? (edited)

KKW does not have 1503.

Maybe better watter resistance although 1503 is also watter and splash resistant.

And most important better throw (about 10-20% better if we look KKW modded data)

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing.

They are booth good flashlights but throw factor always prevails

Thanks for these answers.

@luminarium iaculator

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing

Would someone please explain this, what is “tail focusing”?

The few zoomies I have I believe would be “head focusing” that is the head/lens assembly turns (or slides) in and out while holding the body/tube/tail stationary.

[banker]

1. AWG 18 or 22 for emitter ?
2 . How to disable turbo timer in BLF A6 driver ? I assume after mod, this light could handle high amps.

[mhanlen]

@beam0

@luminarium iaculator

@beam0

@Kloepper Knife Works

You need 4 parts to hit 300kcd+. A dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on a 16mm Noctigon, solder or thermal adhesive to mount it, a good FET driver like the 17mm MTN-DD driver, and a wire jumper on the tailcap spring. All of these should be easy to order from the Mountain Electronics international store.

In comparison what advantages/disadvantages would there be between this and a similarly equipped UF-1503? And (besides being smaller), performance wise how would it compare to the UF-1405/1504? (edited)

KKW does not have 1503.

Maybe better watter resistance although 1503 is also watter and splash resistant.

And most important better throw (about 10-20% better if we look KKW modded data)

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing.

They are booth good flashlights but throw factor always prevails

Thanks for these answers.

@luminarium iaculator

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing

Would someone please explain this, what is “tail focusing”?

The few zoomies I have I believe would be “head focusing” that is the head/lens assembly turns (or slides) in and out while holding the body/tube/tail stationary.

You twist the body tube/tail cap area to zoom in and out on the Brinyte. You twist the head on the other light to zoom in and out.

[beam0]

I’ve been wanting a long range thrower for a while, best ones I have now are HD2010, Small Sun zy-T13, and BST (all stock)

With all the reverence for it here I was always curious about (but never got) the Jacob A60. I’m planning on building a UF-1405, and was also looking at the 1503 because of its pocket-able size, but now maybe this B158 instead.

I will probably use a de-domed XPG2 CW, since that is what would offer the longest range, but I’m interested to see what an XPL-HI would do, if I’m correct that would offer a lot more light output in the “unzoomed” state? Since it is a zoomable light then the best of both worlds? So maybe a reason to get extra pills and eventually have both LED types to swap.

-

A few more questions:

What is the benefit of the red, or green? Why do people want those?

What size MCPCB, 16mm or 20mm?

I understand a 20mm would need reduced in size by 1mm, which shouldn’t be a problem for me, and with the 16mm there would be extra room around it. So either can work, but is there any benefit or disadvantage of one over the other?

[mhanlen]

@beam0

Thanks, so what I’m understanding is the ring is “press in fit” instead of the usual threaded/screw in ring, and soldering to the ring only is easier because it’s not thick as the pill itself, so you would solder the driver to the ring first, then press the driver/ring assembly into the pill.

Also it sounds like if I do use the ring it would make future removal/swap of the driver harder, possible trashing the new driver in the process. I do have a butane torch, so I think I’d try tinning the inside of the pill prior to setting the driver in, therefore making it easier to solder bridges for grounding/securing it, and also retain the ability to just de-solder the bridges for driver removal/swap with less chance of damage.

Basically yes to everything here. I just press fitted the driver inside of the ring, which was still inside the pill after tapping out the driver. I should have the video done sometime tomorrow, and it will all be pretty clear.

[hammerJoe]

is anyone going to make a video showing the difference between the stock light and the modded stuff you folks are talking about?
I am curious to see the results.

[mhanlen]

@hammerJoe

is anyone going to make a video showing the difference between the stock light and the modded stuff you folks are talking about?
I am curious to see the results.

Yes I plan on including this in my video.

[hammerJoe]

@mhanlen

@hammerJoe

is anyone going to make a video showing the difference between the stock light and the modded stuff you folks are talking about?
I am curious to see the results.

Yes I plan on including this in my video.

Cant wait to see it.

[beam0]

@mhanlen

@beam0

@luminarium iaculator

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing

Would someone please explain this, what is “tail focusing”?

The few zoomies I have I believe would be “head focusing” that is the head/lens assembly turns (or slides) in and out while holding the body/tube/tail stationary.

You twist the body tube/tail cap area to zoom in and out on the Brinyte. You twist the head on the other light to zoom in and out.

Hmmm, not sure why I can’t visualize the difference on this. Twist the body and hold the head, or hold the head and twist the body? works either way doesn’t it?.

I have a few small zoomies, An Aleto 18650 (Zeusray EDC100/Sipik SK73 clone), a SK-68 and a Trustfire Z8, the first two are “slide” to zoom and the Z8 is threaded so you twist to zoom. On all of them the LED is mounted in the body tube.

It seems to work either way on all of them, in other words you can either hold the body/tube/tail and twist/slide the head, or you can hold the head and twist/slide the body, does the same thing.

[mhanlen]

@beam0

@mhanlen

@beam0

@luminarium iaculator

1503 has head focusing B158 has tail focusing

Would someone please explain this, what is “tail focusing”?

The few zoomies I have I believe would be “head focusing” that is the head/lens assembly turns (or slides) in and out while holding the body/tube/tail stationary.

You twist the body tube/tail cap area to zoom in and out on the Brinyte. You twist the head on the other light to zoom in and out.

Hmmm, not sure why I can’t visualize the difference on this. Twist the body and hold the head, or hold the head and twist the body? works either way doesn’t it?.

I have a few small zoomies, An Aleto 18650, a SK-68 and a Trustfire Z8, the first two are “slide” to zoom and the Z8 is threaded so you twist to zoom. On all of them the LED is mounted in the body tube.

It seems to work either way on all of them, in other words you can either hold the body/tube/tail and twist/slide the head, or you can hold the head and twist/slide the body, does the same thing.

I show it in my video review… 35-40 seconds in. Did you watch it?

[Kloepper_Knife_Works]

Sorry guys, I’m good at modding aspherics, but not so good at remembering to take videos and pictures.

Thanks mhanlen for doing the dirty work.

[Kloepper_Knife_Works]

By the way, I’m planning a couple of special 360+kcd lights. I’ll post them for sale after the order comes in and I get them modified. Build details will unfortunately have to be a secret between me and the people that buy them. I hate being mysterious, but I have to be.