Brinyte B158 Flashlight GB- Ordering is a GO with coupon, all details in the OP! Updated: 12-09-15

You’ll have to wait for KKWs review before we find this out, as I don’t own a 1405. But I got a maximum of 777 lumens out of mine in flood.

I agree on the shipping. I’ve mentioned it several times in this thread, and in all caps in the OP. The point of this group buy is to save $5 to $7 bucks over the fasttech price. If I were purchasing this light, and when I buy the bare pills, I will add tracking to my order. Do not buy it if you don’t want to add tracking or upgraded shipping. It’s $30 right now at fasttech.

Put me down for 1 red light and 1 bare pill.

Question though, since I’d be swapping these modules “in the field” as needed, do you more experienced collectors have a source for a pill container, akin to the little 2 cell containers that are so handy and pocketable? I mean, I can find something that would protect it but ideally I’d like a purpose-made that fit a generic pill and 18650 without too much extra room for movement.

Anyone know if those pills fit any of the similar rotating-zoom flashlights out there?
They look familiar.

Plastic film canister works for most loose modules. For p60’s cut a foam disc for the bottom and put the reflector in fac down. For modules without a reflector try to cut a snug foam socket so the led dome doesn’t crash around.

Off-topic but for emphasis: Absolutely pay for tracking if not included and don’t use ‘Standard Shipping’, ever (if overseas); not worth the risk. GB should really not allow untracked overseas shipments but that’s not my call. Sorry to clutter your thread.

I agree fully. I’ve said it several times, but honestly it can’t be said enough. This thread is small enough that everyone can feel free to discuss the light or talk about whatever, and I can still easily keep up with additions or changes.

Thank you. I thought I read a post a while back that said the UF-1405 only put out 5-600lm in stock form ?

I dont have any 16850 batteries so if I got this light I would need to get a couple. Any recommendations to go along with the light?

It depends on your priorities and whether you run white or a color led and at what current so too many variables to say without more info. For a color led at moderate current I would go for a high capacity cell with lower max current capacity(3200-3500mAhr) for a white led at 4A or more go for a quality high drain IMR cell. Mtnelectronics has both with fast shipping in the US.

It would be to run white and the use is to illuminate what’s in front of me and not something 2km away.

Yes you will need some. I have 2 sets of these http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_192848.html no complaints

Then go with a high capacity cell like the Panasonic 18650B.

I’m not trying to be cheeky but honestly, I haven’t had a plastic film container for ~15 years. I’ll try to find some because that’s a great idea.

I’m one of those waiting for KKW comparison, would be in for one white

Check it, folks! I’m still trying to get them to knock a few bucks off the pill. I’d buy one or two more if it was the case.

http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_266236.html

Alright ladies and gentlemen, I have my light in from fasttech. I haven’t tested output yet or modified it, but initial impressions are very similar to what mhanlen posted in his video review.

Fit and finish kills the Uniquefire T20. I’m not exaggerating, head movement has firm even resistance through entire travel with almost no wobble in the head, I haven’t tested yet but I’m tempted to believe the IPX-8 (2m submerged) claim by Brinyte. It appears that they use multiple start threads for the head movement, while not the greatest looking (triangular cut, some spots have anodizing worn a bit where they rubbed too much with the threads inside the head) they do look decent and don’t feel like something that should ever let you down considering the number of starts on the threading (rough guess, 12-18), which should make it basically impossible to strip the threads by hand.

Tailcap threads are triangular cut and anodized. Threading is very very smooth, with very little play in the interface between the threads. You need to have the head zoomed out to properly install the tailcap, otherwise the head covers the battery tube and you can’t tighten the cap well enough to use it to twist the head without it (tailcap) unscrewing. Once seated fully it holds well enough to use it to adjust the focus without it coming loose (for now or for good though?).

The lens, at first glance, appears to be a GREAT plastic lens. The focus quality is better than just about any stock aspheric lens light I’ve ever tested at any price. Obviously lenses like what MEM uses are of even higher quality, but considering the cost of this light this is looking like it could be a really good performer. In zoom it clearly focuses well enough to see each dot on the XM-L2 die face, in flood there are 0 rings and only a mild tint shift at the very edges of the beam. Should you fancy trying other lenses in the B158 it will fit up to 51.2mm lenses with a back focal length of 31mm or less. Since it’s plastic, if you drop the stock lens face first onto a rock while hiking, at least you won’t have a shattered lens.

It is definitely anodized. You could be mistaken for thinking there are scratches in some of the threaded surfaces where there is no anodizing, but in reality those are the marks left by the clamps for anodizing (kind of rudimentary that they’re so visible, but all are completely hidden until you start disassembling things). The anodizing is even, smooth, and matches nicely on all parts. Should wear much better than the T20’s.

Assembly/disassembly are quick and easy for all the main bits, the only tools needed are a pair of tweezers or snap-ring pliers for the tailcap.

Provided this light performs how I think it’s going to I’ll probably be upping my qty on the ground buy. Stay tuned!

Great to hear! It’s an excellent buy for sub $30. I’ve completely taken the thing many times and it goes back together like a breeze. The tailcap replacement is a bit awkward (but not very much), but it appears to be necessary for it’s waterproof rating, which seems to be an easier feat with a threaded tube vs. a zooming head. Mine focused very well too… you could make out the dots of the XML2 on my white living room wall from 15 feet away. The flood is nice and even… and like you mentioned- an ever so slight discoloration at the edge. But is there any way around that?

Brinyte offered me to review another zoom, but right now I’m trying to take a breather. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy another light from them again. I would like a better driver stock, to avoid modding, but it ain’t that big of a deal. What’s really cool about this light is the pill. I know I’ve said it a thousand times… but feasibly you could carry several with you… a UV, or whatever color you choose… you could also test out new driver combos, without much effort- it makes beamshots between different emitters a breeze. You can have a new pill in, and the light assembled in less than 20 seconds. It’s a very useful light, with quite a bit of different applications and versatility.

Hopefully we can get the pills down to where Gear Best suggested in a PM to me. I won’t let the cat out of the bag yet because it may not happen- but imagine saving a few more dollars.

The tint shift around the edge of the beam is common to all aspheric lenses. This one is better than most, so I wouldn’t worry about it.

Cool, that’s what I thought. I’ve owned a few in my day, but most of them were junk so they’ve been given away. Except for my first SK68. Can’t wait to hear what you get for cd, and lumens. My CD rating was taken from about 20 feet away, and converted to the 1m standard. I had to “hunt” for the 58xxx I got. I have to do it in my basement because it’s the only dark area I have with a 20ft expanse of empty space, and it’s a bit awkward. I’ve found some of my better throwers can’t read well at shorter distances.