I have ordered more aluminum stock for Bruiser-12000. It will be 4” diameter. I probably will make the head a bit longer, more cooling fins. This would be around 151 watts up to 160 watts! That’s a huge amount of power to cool.
You can be the guinea pig on this one if you like. I already have the Bruiser-9000 up on my web site for sale, hand made version, price is $399.99. The Bruiser-12000 will be $499.99. However, I have not made a Bruiser-12000 as of yet, but, I have made plenty of Kong-12’s, enough to know it works, and, requires lots of heat sinking to keep cool. I have put up to 21 XML LEDs, into a Kong-21.
Its not on your site yet. Either way i’d have to do some serious thinking before jumping.
Just wondering, why is the manual lathe version of the S&R a much higher price than the Bruiser 9000? Seems like there is much more material in the 9000.
I have not made a Bruiser-12000 as of yet, so I have not put it up on my site. Normally I will make a prototype first and take pics, do a bit of testing, before I officially put it up on the web site for sale. Unless someone emails me and asks me to make it for them, then I will sell one, otherwise, not. I have the metal on order, I ran out of 4” bar stock. I don’t normally keep a lot of this size aluminum on hand, it is very expensive.
I would rather not make any of these myself, but, I have to work within my budget, money on hand, so, I’m making them for now, unless I do a pre-sale on them, which, I might consider doing, if there is enough interest. Part of the reason for a thread like this is for me to try and determine the level of interest. Sometimes my ideas gain interest, sometimes not.
Sorry for no beam shots as of yet. Just got home and it’s late, and this flashlight will disturb the entire neighborhood, have to go off somewhere there is some distance to get a good shot. I should be able to do something tomorrow night.
It’s a matter of perspective: What is big (or bright) is relative
I’m in the middle of a Kong-21 build, so, I thought I might take a comparison photo of Kong-21, Bruiser-9000, Big Bruiser, and a 26650 as something for a common size reference.
Bruiser-9000 Beamshot down and across the street about 100 yards:
Kind of a close approximation of what my eyes are seeing, sort of. Just a ton of light, flood, but really does throw a long distance. Sorry, not very good, will have to go off farther out of town some time.
Shining over at the tree, lights it up like day time, plus everything around.
The tree line is about 200 yards? Looks like you are getting a lot of spill also. Nice! Do you think it puts out more light than the picture is showing or is it a good idea of what you were seeing. A lot of times the pictures don’t do the light justice. Thanks for posting. Also would the extra 3000 lumens of the Bruiser 12000 be a huge difference?
I don’t think the light output is quite as bright as it looks in the picture. It is difficult to get a photograph with the brightness to be the same as the eye sees. The picture is not far off from what I actually saw. There were a number of friends there with me, they were all impressed. I would think that 12000 lumens would appear brighter. This flashlight is obviously impressively bright. Bruiser-12000 would be bigger, longer, etc. As the Bruiser-9000 is as you see it, it is only 12” long overall, which is very short for a flashlight like this, and that is what I was trying to do, make it relatively compact for it’s power level of over 110 watts.
Wayne,
I wish I would have since i’ve been doing some testing lately, but mostly with higher lux lights. I’m mostly concerned with tint here. The light was quite good before, but with Cu SinkPads and 90CRI XML2s it will be better. I will certainly post back my impressions when I receive them. I know the 3xml by itself was very bright and had a good tint.
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