Just wondering if there would be much interest in a flashlight like this?
Basically, three Big Bruisers in one. Same 19 degrees beam, but 3 times brighter. Run time still is short at 20 to 30 minutes. Twisty on/off/momentary switch, to keep it short and simple. However, am looking to possibly make a body with a two switch configuration like a Kong, but this would add about at least 4” to length and make it way longer. Powers at 12.6V, 9 amps (110 - 113 Watts)
Possibly I could offer a combo with 3 26650’s and a charger?
The big question is, price? I have not determined if this project is feasible. That’s the purpose of this thread, to see if there would be some interest. I know this forum is ‘budget’ minded. This flashlight would obviously need a bigger budget.
No, this flashlight uses 9 Cree XML LEDs, it’s 3 Big Bruiser circuits and optics. Hence the 3.5” diameter x 4” long head. 110+ watts require a lot to keep them cool, a lot of power going through this flashlight.
I’m not sure on the price?? I can toss out a number, $300 ball park, not including batteries and charger, perhaps another $50 for the batteries and charger ?? In the past I would have asked a lot more, but the market has changed in the past few years.
I’m looking for feedback on pricing. As the price gets higher, fewer people are able (or willing) to buy.
It’s been quite a while since I came out with a new design, the last new design was the ST90, which I actually started the pre-sale in 2001.
I’d be open to use the XM-L2, as it is brighter. It is about 30% more expensive, at this time, but, depends on who’s selling them. And yes, they have copper base. The thing is, I would have to use my tri-board designed for Big Bruiser, it’s the only way to squeeze 9 LEDs into a 3.5” diameter head. I could buy the XM-L2, but would need to mount on my boards. Unless I design the board with copper base. Although a lot of heat is being generated, I believe the inductive and conductive heat sinking would be adequate to keep things under control.
The big thing about the LEDs, is the tint. I need to buy some and test for tint. This is more critical with the reflectors I use, as they collect all the light, including any green or yellow, and this greatly affects the beam color. In a collimator, it is not as critical. Anyway, I’ll check out the new XM-L2 as a possibility.
The circuit board for Big Bruiser is aluminum, but it is about .100” thick aluminum substrate. This board was of my own design. I might consider designing one large board, but, not sure on this. It would be nice, and make things way easier in the assembly process.
I’ll get more pics out. I can take one next to a Mag, yeah. I have a 2D Mag here (with a drop-in in it, of couse.) The Mag is 10” long. Bruiser-9000 is 12” long as pictured. Weight without batteries is 3 pounds. The head is most of the weight. I know from experience that a lot of mass and surface area are important, and, the cooling fins are not just for looks either.
I also thought about calling this FireSword-9000, but it seems more like a Bruiser than a FireSword.
I’d be interested in one. Any chance of an 18650 version?
Also, if you could add 1 or 2 other modes without too much of an impact on cost, that could greatly increase the appeal of this light.
Something like moonlight or sub 10 lumen mode, a middle mode that’s not too bright to be used indoors, and then a full output mode.
$300 for a single mode light with massive output is personally hard to justify, especially when it requires me to move to a new battery that I don’t have a charger for. Add in a lower mode and it becomes MUCH easier.
I know it seems strange for a light this size, but when I owned a TK70, the low mode was one of my most used.
I’m receiving some xm-l2s today to put into one of your bruiser lights. Cost wise I some xm-l2s are less. Warm and NW tints are always the most. But at worse it would be a nice option but I agree with you about the importance of tint.