I am looking to build a solarforce l2p with an xml drop in using a NANGJ 7135*4 driver (1.4amps). I like modes, but I don’t like switching modes with tail switch. I would rather have the interface be something similar to a tk11 where you tighten for high and loosen for low.
From what I understand (which is not a lot, just started reading recently), if I bypass the MCU by grounding the + end to the copper ring, then a completed circuit using this copper ring will be run on high mode only through the 4x7135. (I would not solder the driver to the pill)
Could I then make it so the pill is somehow soldered or connected to run through the driver like normal so I can have modes. Maybe somehow make it so there is only a lower regulated mode.
I would probably have to somehow install a spring on the driver that only connects when tightened.
This kind of drivers usually have an common ground and an inner ground contact ring (which may also have springs on it) for the tube contact. This ring is connected to positive supply via a pull up resistor and then to an input of the controlling microcontroller. When the body tube contacts (head tightened) to this ring the input of the microcontroller goes in to state 0 and 1 again with loosening. Controller senses this as a mode change request, usually by counting the time the head stayed loosened to be sure this is a mode change, and then changes its state.
It’s nothing different than those newer side mode switch lights. Only thing is that you need another route to the bottom of the pcb to make a new contact for the tube. You may add another PCB to the bottom of a star controlled NANJG driver board for this second contact and solder this to one of the stars. You’ll then need to re-program the controller on your driver board to use this input as a mode change switch.
EDIT: Have you changed your Original Post? The process I tried to explain above doesn’t fit well in a P60 host I’m afraid. The pill would contact the tube always. You can still drill the head for another clicky
Yea I edited it. The info you gave me was very helpful though.
So basically I can have a normal NANJG board set to 2 modes and the MCU is programmed so that when it receives an input on a different star, it changes mode?
Does this second input for the mode change need to another board? or can it just be (for example) a wire?
If you reprogram the MCU you can do whatever you want of course. You can make your own two mode program and attach the low setting or mode change to a star. Then you can use a second switch, a wire or any means of a contact to connect this star to ground. You can even use a reed relay and a magnet for this.
If you want to stick with a P60 host, there is pretty much only the possibility to switch modes via tailcap. You could implement a piece of QTC -> tighten head/tailcap -> more light... or get playing with 2 springs at the positive pole.
Ok. So I guess I need to find someone to program a board for me or I may look into doing it myself (if I’m not getting in over my head with my basic knowledge of electronics). Here is my plan.
1) Get a board that pushes out 1.4 amps (as that is what I want on max)
2) Program the board to have 2 modes (1.4amps and something lower to get about 50 lumens).
3) Program the board so that if there is a 2nd input on one of the stars, it will be in high mode. If there isn’t an input, it will go to low mode.
4) Then use a switch of some sort for the 2nd input.
The result should be a light that has 2 modes. If it senses an input from the 2nd input (the star), it will stay in high mode. Once that input is gone (I disconnect it), then it reverts back to low mode.
Yeah.. not gonna happen with a P60 host. Maybe a Maglite or some of the other lights with 2 switches.
But if I could somehow get 2 springs of some sort fitted, it should work?
I really want to stick with a p60 host. If I can’t, can I repgram the driver so it requires a VERY QUICK on/off to switch modes?
I basically want a light with mode memory that won’t change modes on me when I accidentally turn the light off and on slightly too fast. I want it so that I have to really want to change the mode for it to change.
I won’t say step 4 is impossible, but it’s not easy and might need some creativity. I have no robust idea.
Very quick on/off to switch modes: Sure, can be done. I actually plan to do something like that: a driver suited for tactical (tacticool?) uses and forward switches.
If you don’t need to switch between modes too quickly you can make something like what they use to change mode groups in 16mode drivers. They blink once at the third to fifth second after turned on and if you just turn it off at that point it changes to the other mode group or mode in your own driver.
I also plan to program a similar driver for my wife as she hates multi mode lights. But I’ll need just a little bit of practice on a breadboard before trying to program the driver directly.
Ok, thanks for all the responses. A lot of ideas here.
I think I’ll first see if I can come up with anything for a switch in a p60 host. If I can’t I may just go with the quick on off I mentioned before.
If only there was a tk11 that had something like 50 and 400 lumens.
I actually don’t like that switch-off-after-blink-for-group-change scheme; the NANJG101 have or had that, and I often ended up accidentally switching groups because I switched the light off in the wrong moment, quite a hassle.
Is it possible to program it so that it only changes mode when you turn it off and on multiple times (say 3 times) quickly instead of just once? Like if there are 3 short ON bursts? (Similar to how a streamlight tlr-1s changes mode by turning the light on and off quickly 10 times)
I realized this would be a really good solution for me as it allows you to switch modes decently quickly but most likely never change modes by accident.
Yes, actrually lupodrv does something similar:
5 quick taps lock a mode, it doesn't change any more - unless you quickly tap 5 times again, which brings you back to "normal" operation where modes can be changed. Another 5 quick taps will lock the new mode.
Marvelous!! I guess it’s the time I should start programming my drivers. I have PICKIT 3, AVRISP already. So, just soldering skills needed else, right?
Wow! That lupo drive sounds like it would work perfectly for my needs. Just a few questions.
1) Is the file for it available publicly or is it something you are selling (I’m interested either way)?
2) So using a forward clicky, I can strobe as much as I want without unlocking the light unless it has been on for 1 second first?
3) How quickly do the quick presses have to be relative to each other. IE, if I use the light for over one second, and flash it 4 times. Then wait 30 minutes before flashing it once more, will it unlock the light? Or do the 5 quick presses have to be within a set period of time?
4) Does the mode memory affect the lockout function? If you have no memory set but locked it out at the 2nd mode, will it basically have memory at the second mode?
1) Generally neither, I’m afraid. I offer drivers though. Sending a PM.
2) No, any 4 consecutive short on-periods (<0.2s) will unlock.
3) The driver has no means to measure how long it was off, so 4 short on periods with any spacing in between will trigger. Any on-period >0.2s will break the sequence though.