I built another small light using harvested batteries and 3D printing. I used 2 500mAh batteries in parallel. Emitter is a XP-L which I choose for the high forward voltage. As the host is 3D printed and wont tolerate much heat, I limit the current with a single AMC7135 to 350mA. I wanted to keep it as small as possible, so I didnt include a charger. Charging will be done with an external charger which connects to 3 pins (the middle is negative, the outer ones are positive for not messing up the polarity). Its slighly bigger than a 18650 at 22x24x82mm. The print quality looks dreadful on the pictures, but is fine in real life.
What do you think? What would you change?
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I think you did an amazing job. A new matt black paint job and will be perfect.
Looks good. 
What driver did you use?
What are the screws threading into? Just the 3D printed plastic? I haven’t seen many 3D printed lights and I’m not that familiar with 3D printing in general.
I wouldnt go that far to call it a driver. I soldered a AMC7135 directly between the emitter and the battery. Undervoltage protection is taken care of by the high forward voltage and it has only one mode.
The “big” (only M3) ones are threaded into the brass heat sink. Its made from 15x15x7 mm of brass in which i drilled and threaeded a few holes for cables and screws. The small black ones are threaded into a small piece of plastic that holds the switch in place.
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Looks great to me! Well done!
Personally I’d have gone with a hex or octagonal profile, and it needs a big “lanyard” attachment loop on the back, but that is very personal preferences!
This is something I’ve wanted to try. Since I’ve been printing tail caps, body extensions, and a lot of other stuff for a while, but not yet confident in my electronics building… I’ll fry things, lol.
The Profile is the smallest one that fits the batteries. As of parts to fry, the batteries are free, the heatsink cant break and the emitters is really cheap, so even if something breaks, it doesnt really matter.