Ok, so I was a bit disapointed with my new Keygos M10. First because of it being very underdriven (1.8A, original driver with next mode memory) and second because of its hotspot. Can someone please let me know if this is a normal hotspot for a M10?
On left is Keygos M10, not sure if its a T6 or U2 and I dont know what tint it is, seller didnt specify.
On right is my UltraFire C8, dont know if its a T6 or U2 either and dont know what tint it is. Well driven at 2.8A (not 105C or KD driver, original driver with next mode memory)
Is the hotspot afected with current output? Or is it just reflector related?
I love the C8’s hotspot, very tight, throws very well!
The lights are about 2 meters from wall.
My M10 definitely has a wider hotspot than the C8. I think it’s just the design of the lense. I wasn’t happy with the output when I first go it as well. After I upgraded the LED and put an 1mode, 3A linear driver, it’s pretty much perfect.
Dales m10 is u2, (sorry dale I couldn’t see the point in not using it) its actually marked on the star xm-l u2, if it just say xm-l its a t6, both are cool white.
It’s odd you say the driver is next mode memory, on both of mine and my jm07 clone that has the same driver, if your off for a few seconds it resets to high. Both also pulled 2.5a, so I’d make sure your meter leads are up to it, but I’ve had my fair share of poor performing lights too, uf-v3 and zy-t08 both spring to mind.
Your m10 doesn’t seem to be giving as nicer beam as mine have, one of my favorite things about them is the reflector locator and smooth ringless beam they give.
Honest advice? The m10 driver is nice for an xp-g2, but the m10 cries out for that intloutdoor 4a driver, just ask dale, whilst it takes a little getting used too (4 mode groups, hi mid low, ramping, strobes and high only. Then there’s controlling the ramping) its really worthwhile as it changes the light from nice to awesome. Led wise, hunt down a xm-l2 nw, it’ll draw less current (just built one in a c8 upgrade) but still put out more light and give a nicer tint. And less current means more playtime on high. Also, get some king kongs or other high discharge 26650 cells. Cell performance can drastically limit a light, and the m10 will take the best cells you can find, so give it them.
Anyway, less of me, Dales got a build in hand and is a disinterested party, ask him what he thinks you should do with it, his is the most unbiased opinion you can get, as he was lucky enough to type a few lines in a post then just have to wait for the postman. It makes me smile whenever he comments on it (nothing wrong with having my ego stroked :bigsmile: )
That looks right for an m10. Mine though are really sharp till you ramp the driver up. It’s hard to explain but shining on a white wall, it brightens, then the hotspot blurs as you hit max, but at that point its intense enough to be disorientating.
