Got a little issue, most of my 26650 batteries is protected. And my new JM35 single battery lights (one of each type) do not support protected batteries. The flashlights just flashes when you turn the tube on, and then nothing. But as soon as I put in a unprotected battery, everything is working fine.
I have removed the plastic wrapping and protection. The result was a bare metal battery. Can I use a bare metal battery in my flashlights, or do a battery need plastic wrapping to be safe?
Maybe a stupid question, but still, have to ask.
PS! Do Single JM35 lights need to have high drainage batteries?
You don’t technically need the shrink wrap, but you really should have it. The whole body of the cell is negative and without the wrap it’s exposed too close to the top positive for comfort.
If you light has a tailcap switch, then no; the cell will need a wrapper.
If your light uses an E-Switch, I don’t see any obvious reason why it wouldn’t work, but you are still 1/8” from a dead short. I always keep mine wrapped…
I trow it in the trash and have gone out with it. If I open one more, I can tell. But the main reason I had removed the PCB was because of the battery was “DOA”, no charger would take it, but removing the PCB, and the battery worked 100% in the chargers and in testing.
But I was sure there is a reason why there is plastic wrapping on every battery, so I did not take the change to use it in anything before asking here.
I have got my reply. Looks like I have to get 4 more unprotected 26650, since I don’t have any hairdryer or anything else I can use to shrink wrap the batteries. Of course, packing tape can be an option, but I don’t go broke over 4 unprotected batteries.
That happened to me with the two blue Trustfire 18650’s that came with a Trustfire X9 boxed set. The protection circuits would not let my Opus charge them, so the cells were stripped, the PCB’s tossed, and rewrapped with clear shrink tube. a couple of perfectly adequate 1500mAh cells to stick in a 2s light running a LD28.
Same here with a Trustfire 14500 (good one, purchased from a reputable [at the time] source). Wouldn’t charge, so I check the voltage and it was zero. Peeled the wrapper back and found that the cell was good, so I re-wrapped without the protection circuit and use it in my EDC light now.
The battery I mention was a TrustFire 26650 5000mAh battery. Just one of 16 that was any issue with (beside 4 I got from GB, that had only 50% capacity). The 16 others has rated capacity or more, up to 5500mAh. So good cells all of them, beside the one.
I now also tried SoShine 26650 protected batteries, and JM35 will not take that either.
On BangGood it say on the version with two batteries that “Please do not use protected batteries”, there is no such info on Bearbest.com.
But then it make sense.
Have to decide, buy unprotected ($14/pcs), or just a clear tape roll (maybe $5), and then I can make some of my 16 TrustFire and 8 SoShine batteries from protected to unprotected.
It sounds to me like the protection circuit had tripped, probably due to low voltage or overdrawing of amps. I’m pretty sure that most chargers like the Opus have trouble resetting the protection circuit, and generally, charging on a cheap charger for a short while allows the protection to reset and then the Opus can complete the charge.
Can anyone else chime in on my thoughts here? That would explain why they were showing 0 volts also as the circuit was tripped.
since you didn’t have any trouble with the other batteries i guess you made sure you had contact in the charger? sometimes my 26650 is a bit difficult to charge in my opus c3100, so i use a small magnet to get better contact.
I know, when I removed the PCB (protection) it was 3.7V right away. So there was something wrong with the PCB board on this only battery.
No big deal.
Of course, tried the battery in 16 bays total ( 2 x C3100 v2.2 and 2 x Lii500s) and it was the only one of 16 (20) batteries from TrustFire. And I have several other 26650 batteries as well.
