I need to know if I can put this driver into a light with an electronic switch.
~ Bump ~ Please! Someone. I need to know. If it can’t, I can scrap my plans and move on to something else.
Maybe if you can add a link to a seller, spec, or a light that use it, something...
I for myself have not recognized this driver as anything seen before, sorry.
I don’t think this driver comes in any light.
These are the only specs from the sellers site:
Parameters for Driver:
Quantity: 1pc
Input Current: 7A
INPUT: 3-18V
Out PUT: 3.2-3.7V
Diameter: 32mm
Dimmable: Yes
5 Modes: Low (10), mid (50), high (100), strobe (100), SOS (100%)
It says dimmable, but I have no idea if it really is.
With those modes I would assume its using a MCU to control PWM for modes. I am assuming this driver isn’t programmed for a electronic switch. If the MCU doesn’t have the code to allow for a electronic switch to be used it wont work. If it uses a atmel MCU dr.jones might be able to help, you might shoot him a PM.
I would say: 80% that it can’t use electronic sw.
In all my research and studying with a jewelers loop, I think your right.
As a modder, I hate momentary switches. They limit driver choice into the no fun zone.
Do you know which MCU is used (markings are probably etched off but, if not, maybe there is a chance).
Well, momentary switches introduced me to the Dr Jones lumodrv which I LOVE!
Can they give me 8A. I hate stacking chips.
But Ouchyfoot is obviously aiming for something different here because:
so that would be 2 - 4 batteries and 2 or 3 XML2’s or one MTG2!!!
_
btw. that should probably be something like Output current_
Actually, I want to use it for one XM-L2 in a COURUI
I know 7A is pushing it, but I want to blow up LEDs like all the big boys.
If you hate stacking chips how about a slave board instead? It should be about the same thickness as that toroid.
7A from 4.2v doesn't last long even if you have a pile of cells in parallel. Vf at 7A is over 4v.
Its not common to be able to use a driver circuits suited for a mechanical switch and being able to convert them for use with an electronic switch.
My advise would either be to rebuild to mechanical switch and use the driver you want or go with a Drjones driver + slave board+ stacking + LG D1 (4,35V cells) in parallel. But peak output will sink fast compared to a proper regulated setup.
If you want to blow up emitters, regulated (with cells in series) is the better way to go. :p
0:)
My plan was to reconfigure the COURUI into a 3 X 18650 series configuration. It shouldn’t be too hard. Reconfiguring three cells is easier than four.
I’ve been pondering a clicky switch, but haven’t figured out a way to install it yet.
Question: If I short the -LED pad on the stock driver to ground for DD, will the momentary switch still work (on/off)?
Newp. LED+ is connected direct to BAT+ through the inductor at all times (regardless if the light is on or off) and regulation is on the LED- side. If you ground LED- it'll be on all the time.
Why not just replace the original sense resistor with a piece of copper?
Will that leave me with modes, or just DD?
Modes will still work. The lower modes are just a percentage of the high mode current so they will increase proportionally. If stock was 2.5A at 100%, and medium was 35% (875mA) and low was 5% (125mA), and your resistor mod raises the 100% mode to 4A, then medium will be 1.4A and low 200mA.