Actually, I want to use it for one XM-L2 in a COURUI
I know 7A is pushing it, but I want to blow up LEDs like all the big boys.
If you hate stacking chips how about a slave board instead? It should be about the same thickness as that toroid.
7A from 4.2v doesn't last long even if you have a pile of cells in parallel. Vf at 7A is over 4v.
Its not common to be able to use a driver circuits suited for a mechanical switch and being able to convert them for use with an electronic switch.
My advise would either be to rebuild to mechanical switch and use the driver you want or go with a Drjones driver + slave board+ stacking + LG D1 (4,35V cells) in parallel. But peak output will sink fast compared to a proper regulated setup.
If you want to blow up emitters, regulated (with cells in series) is the better way to go. :p
0:)
My plan was to reconfigure the COURUI into a 3 X 18650 series configuration. It shouldn’t be too hard. Reconfiguring three cells is easier than four.
I’ve been pondering a clicky switch, but haven’t figured out a way to install it yet.
Question: If I short the -LED pad on the stock driver to ground for DD, will the momentary switch still work (on/off)?
Newp. LED+ is connected direct to BAT+ through the inductor at all times (regardless if the light is on or off) and regulation is on the LED- side. If you ground LED- it'll be on all the time.
Why not just replace the original sense resistor with a piece of copper?
Will that leave me with modes, or just DD?
Modes will still work. The lower modes are just a percentage of the high mode current so they will increase proportionally. If stock was 2.5A at 100%, and medium was 35% (875mA) and low was 5% (125mA), and your resistor mod raises the 100% mode to 4A, then medium will be 1.4A and low 200mA.
I removed the sense resistor and replaced it with a copper pin
I upgraded the tiny stock wires to the emitters and tail to 22AWG and took my current measurement at the tail.
I got a reading of 3.03A on high, and 0.65A on low. Actually, the high started around 2.7A and slowly climbed to 3.03A where it seemed to stabilize.
When I tested it in stock form, I got a reading of 2.2A at the emitter. That was with the stock leads that must only be 28-30 AWG, so it doesn’t look like there’s been much improvement, if any.
Okay. I removed the copper pin bridging the sense resistor and replaced it with an R100 resistor.
1.8A on high, 0.4A on low at the tail. I don’t seem to be making much headway.
Back again. I stacked the original R200 on top of the R100 and got a steady 4.1A on high, and 0.87 on low.
I did notice a slight smell and what appeared to be smoke curling out the head. I disconnected and pulled the driver. I couldn’t feel any heat or damage.
Come to think of it, I think the same thing might have happened to LinusHofmann with his COURUI.
I tried the driver again. I ran the light while I was holding the driver in my hand. I couldn't see or hear anything obvious. There was a bit of smell, I think. After you've been focused on something for so long you can't tell if you're imagining things.
Anyway, I figured "what the hell". If the driver fries, so what. A 2.2A driver in a thrower is about as useless as chicken shit on a pump handle.
I left it at 4A and reflowed the XM-L2 on a 20Mmm Noctigon. I at least want to get a feel for this light before the driver burns out. This isn't meant to be permanent.
I'm now playing with the idea of trying to fit an Omten type switch in the tail. I think there might be room. It would just be a matter of drilling a hole for the boot.
I guess to get back to the original topic of how to get that 7A driver to work, I think I’ve found the easiest solution. Link to Clicky switch conversion.
Keep up the good work - I haven’t had time to play with mine yet…
The bigger LD-36 really is an excellent momentary switch driver, with a beautiful UI - short press turns on/off, long press ramps up, another long press ramps down. Each long press when on ramps the opposite direction, so you never have to go all the way to either end if you go too far. Just release and press&hold again. And when you get to the top or bottom of the ramp, it flashes at you and then STOPS, even if you keep holding the button. Have to release & press again to ramp back the other direction. Always comes back on at the last level used (it may 'forget' after breaking power to change cells, not sure, but that's not a big deal).
Mine does 4.8A from 3S, and the sense resistor is right up top out in the open and still has some headroom left in it.
It doesn't look like it would be easy to fit in the light, but it's definitely possible. Just needs metal removed in the right spots...
Anybody checked to see if the CNQG 'DRY' 3x18650 carriers will fit in the tube? (this and this)
I've had the LD-36 in my mind all along. It would certainly make things easier, and 5A really is enough. I'm not that big on ramping drivers though. I've got a ramping LD-35 in my Roche M170, and wish it just had modes. I think I prefer magnetic rings or collars to ramping drivers.
The LD-36 is 38mm, and the COURUI driver is 38.5mm, so fit wouldn't be a problem.
I had the COURUI out tonight with the 4A resistor modded driver. Yes, it's still going strong. Maybe the smoke and burning smell was just old flux burning off. I'm expecting it will probably die though. Anyway, it throws like a trooper. Even with all the city lights I could see it lighting up things in the distance. 4A drives it nicely. Beautiful hotspot.
What to do? 5A or 7A? Is 7A overkill?
I kind of want to add the tail switch just to see if I can. Even if I went with LD-36 and side switch, the tailcap would be great for lockout.
The LD-36 would take a lot less work to fit than I thought. In the other thread Linus measured the ID of the driver cavity at 34mm, or 1.338". The LD-36 upper board will already fit in that as-is, it's 1.310 at the widest point. But the top surface of the lower board has components out to within .070" from the outer diameter, so the hole needs to be opened up to only 1.440" or so (the width of the ledge the driver sits on).
The only other catch is the components on the battery side of the board, you would need to make a contact plate or use a carrier with the + contact in the center.
Well, we’ll see. I ordered an LD-36 anyway. I’ve been looking at it for a while. I should have ordered the three mode LD-35 while I was there to swap into my M170, but I didn’t think the cost was worth it. I’ve got my choice of a bunch of 5A and 7A drivers now.
Now I’ve got to decide on how I’m going to reconfigure the batteries to series. I have a plan in my head, but those don’t always work out in real life.