I agree - this OP seems to work very well. In the past though if you recall, SMO was a big thing for big XHP70.2 throwers - I got a couple already, think the L6 and MT07. Here is one thread on it: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/42286. VOB compared throw #'s, etc.
Well on mine, there's a small bump in the middle, but Funtastic bought about 10 over a period of months took a vid and posted about the lack of flatness. Not sure in which way - at least the middle bump and burrs around holes, just not sure of the flatness of the surface itself.
Every light I break down and/or mod, I check the drilled holes for burrs and the shelf for flatness, so I'm quite used to detecting and fixing them.
I will get in touch with Barry asap. Driverwise, I was always hoping for something like Convoy‘s FX-31 2S/3S buckdriver that should physically fit into SP70 and that would offer more stable output. Sofirn has successfully launched their new SP35 flashlight with constant current regulation, so maybe there’s some room left for even more potential in SP70 BLF edition.
I wonder if Sofirn was interested in the GT FC40 12V LED that Simon is now testing in the L6. Can it be run with 6V or would it require to use a boostdriver?
L6 OP is pretty aggressive so you notice a bigger difference.
SP70 OP is almost like SMO. Not a big difference. (In my opinion) I use the stock reflector in my SP70.
To stay with 2 cells, then a boost would be needed. Who will design and build the driver? It sure complicates the project maybe, it all depends on the driver, if going with this LED.
I’m not sure if anyone else here has the Wurkkos TS70, but that light is pretty fantastic. Exact same dimensions as the SP70 except for the head diameter being slightly smaller. OP reflector as well. Same lumens, lower candela since the light has a much larger hotspot. Both lights are advertised as 5500 lumens on turbo and 2 lumens on “moonlight,” but have different brightness levels for low, medium, and high. I personally like the the UI on the TS70 more than the SP70, although it lacks the ramping effect in group 2 of the UI.
The advertised effective range of both lights is in the same ballpark, but if you ask me, even though more floody, the TS70 seems slightly brighter. It even seems to have better range… But that’s just me. I might have a defective SP70 since my side switch indicator goes “orange” very shortly after putting in freshly charged cells.
Anyway, just thought I’d bring it to everyone’s attention if nobody else had experienced the Wurkkos TS70. It’s also cheaper than the Sofirn on Amazon. All that being said, I am still VERY interested in a BLF edition SP70. And honestly would love to see a Wurkkos TS70 BLF Edition as well. Just a thought. I am FAR less knowledgeable than the average seasoned user here on BLF, so I’m learning a lot of new details and ways to improve our lights and distinguish the great from the good and the good from the garbage. Be kind please haha, I’m just a simpleton.
Sofirn has already used XHP35 HI (12V) in the first generation of C8G. Their 1S 12V boost driver works quite well apart from minor things that could be easily improved (LED current was only 1.7A while 2.2A would be better, ATR was too aggressive).
I am not sure if they can easily adopt this driver design to a 2S boostdriver to run both GT FC40 and XHP70.2 at 12V. This kind of effort would only pay if enough customers were interested into buying these lights.
No, because heat dissipation of a 70.2 is not an issue in the SP70, so it won’t be with this GT FC40 either. In fact, you probably won’t be able to push this led very hard at all if you’re going to use a boost driver, so it’s not an issue.
The SP70 does those numbers stock and can handle it. A 30mm Buck or Boost driver is not going to get you that much output (7A@12v). It might get you half that, so maybe 3A@12v. That’s a lot less heat. You might be able to use a FET driver with 4 cells to push it to 7A (need a tube extension). The SP70 will still handle that much power.
BlueSwordM has made batches of low resistance springs in the past, but I doubt you can still get them. You can also just do bypass wires. Similar results, but springs are more reliable than wires.
