Charging your GITD bling the most efficient way

Ok CRX and I have been having quite the chat over PM on all things GITD.
I sent him this article, and thought it may be worth sharing with you all. :smiley: Found it here - LINK

The brightness and type of bulb determines the efficiency at which phosphorescent material charges. Efficient bulbs not only charge faster, but can obtain a brighter level of glow. For example, a black light shining on a glow surface for 30 seconds will cause that surface to be 10x brighter than a flashlight on it for 6 hours. Here is a simple list of bulbs in order from least to most efficient:
White LED lights Blue/purple LED lights Incandescent standard light bulb Compact fluorescent or CFL light (spiral tube, screw-in) White LED’s Blue/Purple LED’s Incandescent Fluorescent bulb with long tubes UV LED lights Black light tube Direct sunlight

The efficiency of light as a phosphorescent charging source is determined by its brightness and its spectrum. White light is comprised of equal amounts of all of the colors, such as red, green, and blue. White light bulbs typically also emit ultraviolet (UV) light – the “color” above purple in the spectrum which humans can not see. Each part of the spectrum effects glow in the dark materials differently. Red light actually discharges the glow pigments. Green light is neutral. Blue Light inefficiently charges the pigments. Ultraviolet light charges the pigments efficiently. A standard incandescent light bulb emits similar amounts of the four colors above. The green does not effect the glow pigments. The red discharges and the blue charges in similar amounts, which results in a cancelation. The result is that only the ultraviolet is working to charge the phosphorescent pigments.

Therefore, when using a 100 watt incandescent light bulb as a charging source, only about 10-25 watts are working to actually charge the pigment. Therefore, a 60 watt black light bulb will far outperform the higher powered white light. The efficiency of white light can be determined by the ratios of the colors contained. “Warm” lights contain more red and therefore are poor for charging glow in the dark items. “Cool” or “Daylight” bulbs contain more blue and therefore are slightly more efficient. Fluorescent bulbs, both CFL and tube style, naturally emit more ultraviolet light, which makes them more efficient. Black lights have another major advantage. White light bulbs cause the human eye to adjust to the bright light. When the light is removed, it takes 15 minutes for human eyes to adjust back to the darkness. If your eyes are adjusted for a bright room, then even the brightest phosphorescent material will appear dim when the light is removed. Black lights do not cause your eyes to readjust. For most applications, this will cause the glow in the dark materials to “appear” considerably brighter.

The final major consideration is direct vs. reflected light. Many ceiling fixtures are designed to point light down onto a room. Therefore, the only light reaching the glow in the dark stars on your ceiling is reflected. Reflected light is extremely inefficient for charging. This holds true for sunlight entering through a window. While a room inside may look bright, it is mostly from reflected light. This is also why glow in the dark house numbers on a west-facing house are brighter at 10pm than an east-facing house.

A frequently asked question at Glow Inc. is “How long does it take to get a full charge?” The easy answer is that any of our products will be at their maximum charge from any light source in 20 minutes. However, that is a useless answer. “Maximum Charge” will change depending on the light source. A black light on for seconds can cause our products to glow brighter than an incandescent bulb lit for 10 hours. Of course, the speed of charge is also determined by the light source. A “full charge” is also a hard statement. Under black light, most pigments will get to 80% of their charge within seconds, 90% over 30 seconds, 95% over about 2 minutes, 100% in about 10 minutes. This is further complicated by the size of the pigment. Larger pigments can glow brighter and longer, but charge slower.

In conclusion, use a black light if possible. If white light is needed use CFL “Daylight” bulbs.

Very enjoyable post. This is an interest of mine. Glad I’m not the only nerd!

Thank you. CRX has already pointed out I’m a bit, well, I like it a lot lol! mainly on watches, and it has followed through to flashlights!

Funny, but only a few hours ago I stuck the gitd diffuser that came with… think it was an Ultratac AAA light… onto the UV Oilight AAA light I got, and it lit up green like it was on fire. Only a few seconds, then off, and it glowed about as bright as if left out in the sun for a while.

I just ordered a 40w es spiral black light fluro lamp. I’m getting a battenholder tomorrow from the wholesalers and I’m making a ‘charging box’ so to speak.
Keep my eyes safe, whilst efficiently charging the gitd stuff I have accumulated…… :person_facepalming:

I have found inside the locks at our arcade these beauties which nicely slice up on my lathe, they nicely fit the fw3a.
Here is an attempt with superglue - the next time since it’s arrived now will be with glass uv glue and be better.




Very useful information, thank you.

I always thought white light would charge GITD no matter what color temperature. In the future I will use a cold white or even an UV flashlight.

I remember having a sheet of GITD plastic and thinking a super bright concentrated light source would allow me to draw light pics on it. So I bought a red laser. Very disappointing that was.

@G0OSE, really nice work on the FW3 bits, superb!

Generally, you can only “charge” gitd stuff (phosphors) from a higher-frequency / lower-wavelength source. Ie, you can charge yellow phosphor from a blue source, but not the other way around.

Great idea and execution with the lock cylinders G0OSE! Looking really cool! I’ve always wondered why my uv lights charge gitd stuff so much better, and now I know. Thanks for that. I wonder what difference there would be with uvb and uvc vs uva. I would guess that uvc would be the most efficient, but may also degrade the gitd pigments more. Interesting that red is least efficient, kinda like its effect on rhodopsin.

Thank you for all your kind comments! :slight_smile:
I’m planning to make a small batch of those FW3A button tops in colours to order, but it won’t be until I finish work in October, or maybe before. This time of year is busy for me as I work in a holiday camp arcade.
They will just stick on with double sided tape but you could glue them on too.
Also thinking of making some as fobs on paracord keyrings/lanyards. The new ones will be much higher quality with no dark bits in as now I have proper UV setting glue, rather than superglue which dries too quick!
I may make a few copper buttons (full size replacements) too since I have some copper bar and a lathe.

As a UK south-east (nr Chichester) dweller I may well be in touch. My copper FW3 has the blue GITD button, I’m a sucker for trits and glowys. :slight_smile:

No worries, when I start cutting them I’ll pm you ok :slight_smile:

Excellent, cheers. I like to tailstand the copper FW3 in short tube 18350, but I may forgo that advantage for one of your caps.

Thanks for the link. So if I get a glow tube, charge it up, then shine my red bike tail light on it, it will stop glowing? This I have to try.