Answered, Thanks.
Hello,
The title said it all. Here is a driver from a SRK Clone. It does about 4.5 amps stock. LEDs are in parallel.
Can you tell from the numbers on the FET, if it will do more, if the resistors are bridged or switched out?
How much could the FET be pushed?
And, what are the blank spaces for and the extra LED+ and induction pads? Is this possibly a driver that might be worth playing with and modding it?
Comparing this to the BLF SRK FET driver, it should be safe to bridge any of R10-R13.
I suspect that the missing inductor, diode D4, and 6-pin IC are for a boost converter to drive the LEDs in series. However, the inductor and D4 can be added just like the BLF SRK FET driver to give lower low modes. It seems to me there is potential to use this board along with a Nanjg 105C to get similar functionality and also allow for using one 7135 on the Nanjg for more efficient moonlight mode.
That’s just your typical cheap direct drive FET driver. Nothing special there. The blank pads are because they probably use the same driver PCB for a lot of different light. An inductor could get you a lower low, but I don’t think it’s worth the effort.
All you would need to do with that is bridge the input resistors and piggyback a 105C to control the FET to get the better firmware and modes. Basically, do the same thing as Comfychair was doing a year ago.
The FET is probably pretty crappy, but if you only want 9A it might be what you want anyways. I want 15A+ out of my lights, so those ones have to go.
The FET is decent, N-channel and rated 24V, 0.0085Ω, 50A. It is also obsolete...
The absent diode, inductor and controller IC would make this a buck regulator.
However the the mode contoller IC will still have low PWM rates and ever useful blinky modes...
It will make a nice contact board! 
Or paperweight...
Looks like these folks have it covered. 
Yes, I just wish it was in english!