mortuus
March 11, 2018, 10:40pm
1421
6.2A is that alot for this type of light or?
arficus
March 11, 2018, 11:10pm
1422
>> 6.2A is that alot for this type of light or?
At the emitter, yes. I thought max was 1.05A for XHP35?
Giancarlo
March 11, 2018, 11:49pm
1423
On February 7 Dale wrote to me:
Your order shipped by China post today.
MT09R black – triple 35-HI – Neutral white
Best Regards!
Dale
I received still nothing. I sent to Dale two private messages but got no reply. I already paid the flashlight and 40 days have passed. What have I to do now?
arficus
March 12, 2018, 12:27am
1424
Giancarlo:
On February 7 Dale wrote to me:
Your order shipped by China post today.
MT09R black – triple 35-HI – Neutral white
Best Regards!
Dale
I received still nothing. I sent to Dale two private messages but got no reply. I already paid the flashlight and 40 days have passed. What have I to do now?
You can continue to wait, or you can open case with paypal and get a refund.
southland
March 12, 2018, 6:27am
1425
Giancarlo:
On February 7 Dale wrote to me:
Your order shipped by China post today.
MT09R black – triple 35-HI – Neutral white
Best Regards!
Dale
I received still nothing. I sent to Dale two private messages but got no reply. I already paid the flashlight and 40 days have passed. What have I to do now?
Average shipping time with China post is 30 days for me, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter.
mortuus
March 12, 2018, 3:17pm
1426
Thanks @JasonWW good to know that tehnical nonsense
@Giancarlo sad still nothing… did u check the tracking number what it says?= How is average shipping time to Rome usually from asia u know?
if u go to this site does tracking even say anything ?
hIKARInoob
March 12, 2018, 3:39pm
1427
Someone posted recently that tracking finally showed progress. It seems some lights were stuck in China due to Chinese New Year, so this is a possible reason for your delay.
arficus
March 12, 2018, 11:06pm
1428
>> It seems some lights were stuck in China due to Chinese New Year
Lights were not stuck in China because of CNY. We were told lights would be sent in advance of CNY so that very thing wouldn’t happen. We were made aware that everything shuts down over CNY. Lights were stuck in shipper’s warehouse over CNY because Haikelite failed to send them when promised.
jasonxding
March 13, 2018, 12:40am
1429
Hello ladies and gentlemen, beamshots video for triple XHP70
hIKARInoob
March 13, 2018, 12:47am
1430
Thanks a lot for the video Jason! :+1: It looked like I was playing a video game.
jasonxding
March 13, 2018, 12:58am
1431
Horror game? Don’t forget to loot for batteries
hIKARInoob
March 13, 2018, 1:07am
1432
Usually in horror games you have a flickering 1 lumen light; MT09R is too bright!
(Yeah!: Resident Evil 7)
JasonWW:
Well, it turns out this is a big capacitor, which is what it looks like now that I see a close up picture. Where the heck is a limiting resistor?
Anyway, Texas_Ace (this Haikelite driver is loosely based on his Texas Avenger design) and Terry have been looking over the xhp35-HI driver this last week and found this capacitor to be causing some issues.
I’m surprised Terry didn’t post this info here, so here is a qoute from his beam shot thread.
I can’t stay on tonight. I have a ton of work to do both in the office and in the shop but, I will point out to you what TA and I have found to first off be totally unnecessary and second it is defiantly causing the flickering or people that get a blink when they try to turn it on and that is all they get is that blink they nothing.
I will post a picture of the capacitor that we have very carefully removed. After removing it all of the blinking and flickering issues where people were having to tighten or loosen the tail cap are all gone.
TA measured the Parasitic drain just to be sure someone did not add that to try and lower it. ANd after removing that capacitor parasitic drain is better than it was before the cap was removed. 220ua
Removing it is pretty simple as long as you have the temperature controlled on your iron and don’t just go at it wide open. The side connected to the pad is the easiest side to start with, once I get that side loose I just put the tip of my iron on the capacitor itself just until it gets hot enough to pull away from the other side.
If you know what you are doing and have soldered components like this before it will be a breeze. But, if you are not familiar with soldering these types of components it would be best left to someone that has much more experience.
The back side of that capacitor connection must not be over heated, you will pretty much kill the whole driver is that tiny little part get damaged in the process.
I have been testing one of each unit for over a week now with this modification to the driver and both units are working great.
Please remember I am not telling anyone to or not to attempt removing that capacitor themselves I am only telling you what I will be spending most of the night doing to the stock I have here on hand and my next shipment as well when it arrives. So this is what was decided on as being a problem.
I will probably not be back on tonight as I said I have about 15 or 16 here that I have to do. It honestly takes longer to get to the capacitor than to remove it.
Just trying to keep you informed about things happening… LOL I had not abandoned you I just had to get to work and find the issue and get it fixed.
Thanks for the info, Hopefully Terry will come to this thread and post his findings.
Is this correct:
and the other four wires goto the switch, and switch LED’s (red and blue)? What color to which?
I haven’t taken mine apart…Imma scairt! (warranty)
Thanks!
This works without question...TA and I are still trying to figure out who or why this was ever added.
Between the 2 of us we have removed this capacitor and only had positive results.
Just be very careful if you choose to remove it yourself. One side is simple but the other side must not be overheated.
I'm removing some now in fact. Haikelite has agreed that this is the cause for all of the flickering and blinking issues.
I don't have a lot of time because I have about 10 more to do so I can get them added back to my stores inventory.
All off the 35 high units I have that have been tested after the capacitor being removed are between 6000 and 6500 lumen. That depends more on the emitter than anything else. The 70.2 versions are testing out between 16k and I have 2 in NW tint that hit 17k lumen.
This is a factory approved repair. I started long before being asked and by the time I was asked I had already been consulting with TA for a week and we had the issue cured.
Is this correct: The big wires goto the LED’s…( red/white for the 35, 3xRed/3xWhite for the 70.2) and the other four wires goto the switch, and switch LED’s (red and blue)? What color to which? can someone take more pictures of the LED board and switch connections? I haven’t taken mine apart…Imma scairt! (warranty) Thanks!
Are you doing a driver swap out?
JasonWW:
Well, it turns out this is a big capacitor, which is what it looks like now that I see a close up picture. Where the heck is a limiting resistor? Anyway, Texas_Ace (this Haikelite driver is loosely based on his Texas Avenger design) and Terry have been looking over the xhp35-HI driver this last week and found this capacitor to be causing some issues. I’m surprised Terry didn’t post this info here, so here is a qoute from his beam shot thread.
I can't stay on tonight. I have a ton of work to do both in the office and in the shop but, I will point out to you what TA and I have found to first off be totally unnecessary and second it is defiantly causing the flickering or people that get a blink when they try to turn it on and that is all they get is that blink they nothing.
I will post a picture of the capacitor that we have very carefully removed. After removing it all of the blinking and flickering issues where people were having to tighten or loosen the tail cap are all gone.
TA measured the Parasitic drain just to be sure someone did not add that to try and lower it. ANd after removing that capacitor parasitic drain is better than it was before the cap was removed. 220ua
Removing it is pretty simple as long as you have the temperature controlled on your iron and don't just go at it wide open. The side connected to the pad is the easiest side to start with, once I get that side loose I just put the tip of my iron on the capacitor itself just until it gets hot enough to pull away from the other side.
If you know what you are doing and have soldered components like this before it will be a breeze. But, if you are not familiar with soldering these types of components it would be best left to someone that has much more experience.
The back side of that capacitor connection must not be over heated, you will pretty much kill the whole driver is that tiny little part get damaged in the process.
I have been testing one of each unit for over a week now with this modification to the driver and both units are working great.
Please remember I am not telling anyone to or not to attempt removing that capacitor themselves I am only telling you what I will be spending most of the night doing to the stock I have here on hand and my next shipment as well when it arrives. So this is what was decided on as being a problem.
I will probably not be back on tonight as I said I have about 15 or 16 here that I have to do. It honestly takes longer to get to the capacitor than to remove it.
Just trying to keep you informed about things happening... LOL I had not abandoned you I just had to get to work and find the issue and get it fixed.
Sorry it's been non stop. I Had to pull all of these models from inventory. Then get to work on a fix.
Of course we had to do extensive testing as well.
We are removing this from both drivers the 35 high and 70.2.
No, I am not…just trying to learn where the wires go (noob). I have not opened my light per conditions of the warranty. I am curious if a new updated driver will be considered to address the thermal step down issue though (70.2).
Love the blue!
Thanks!
“We are removing this from both drivers the 35 high and 70.2.”
Does this affect thermal step down on the 70.2?
Its a shame this kind of info wasnt present back then in the early days of group buy, only numbers that now we know for fact wasnt close to reality is a bit sad to see the claimed lumens and cd didnt live up to final product…
