Guys I am not asking or encouraging any members to attempt to remove that capacitor themselves.
What I have posted is what we have found after almost 200 hours of trouble shooting. That Capacitor should have never been added where it is to begin with.
All of the units that have the issue that when they try to turn on the light of it flickering or it will blink really bright like it is about to come on then just goes out like you turned it off.
Those issues are cause by that Capacitor.
If your light has this issue one of 2 things will happen if you ask for service. If you are here in the US the chances are Dale will have you send it to me and I will simply remove that Capacitor or if a service person is not conveniently located you will most likely be shipped a replacement driver.
This is not a modification or me just goofing around with the light. This is a certified technician providing a way to repair an issue with a light.
LOL Can't leave TA out, he was a huge help and I thank him very much for being there when I asked for his help.
It does but it really is just very slightly. But I can tell you that if at some point it develops this issue. You still have plenty of warranty time.
And everyone please remember that I have said at least 3 times now if you choose to remove the capacitor yourself you are doing it at your own risk.
One side of that capacitor if you over heat it even just a tiny bit the you will kill the driver. WE have a ton of members that can do this is their sleep and I am sure that most of those have already removed the capacitor but most of those guys have year of experience with these components and soldering.
Will I need to replace the 70.2 drivers for the other two GB and two I purchased from Terry’s online store? Dale mentioned in an email about shipping a new driver to me for the third GB that blinks but won’t turn on.
I do have a 70.2 does the same thing like yours. Waiting for Dale to respond back. He mentioned that he might be sending a new driver. I sent him a video.
If it is blinking and you are comfortable using a soldering Iron then just remove the capacitor.
If he happens to send you a driver and it is not the new design without the capacitor is not due to be ready for weeks unless I missed something in a meeting or email.
If you would rather not remover the Cap a it or but you have no issue removing the drivers. Just ship me the drivers and I will remove the capacitor for you.
Any of these lights that are flickering or you get a blink when you click to turn it on then it is without a doubt that Capacitor and is super simple to fix.
What about the rest of the world, especially the ones who don’t have a soldering iron? And will the updated driver have thermal management that limits temperature?
Well let's think about this a minute. If Dale is shipping he a driver or driver's then he obviously expected him to swap out the drivers himself. If that is the case and it must be or he would be shipping me the drivers or telling him to ship the me for repair.
If Dale is going to let him do his own driver swap out without a warranty issue then removing that capacitor is much easier.
And, even if he ships new drivers for him to swap out and those drivers have that Capacitor on then it will still have to be removed.
I read his entire post before deciding to make that suggestion.
I’m sorry to be a pain but can we get some explanation for this capacitor? Why was it added? Should it be there? Can we remove it and keep our warranty? Will this cause an issue if I use cells other than the included Sony cells (I have many 30Q’s and other high quality cells as well). Will Haikelite be replacing drivers for those who are experiencing issues?
By all accounts this capacitor is useless at best, causes significant issues at worst. It really puzzles me why it’s there in the first place.
OK. You’d previously suggested that people bypass springs on the 35 HI to increase output. Initially you thought this would pose no problem, but when people expressed more concern you contacted Dale, and he confirmed that it would void warranty. So, regardless of whatever sense may be apparent, I’d suggest Dale be asked explicitly whether customer removal of cap would void warranty.