Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

Im asking this question in both 18650 BLF group buy threads, so excuse me, if this seems like repeating, the threads are big and dynamic to seek through them, so heres the question - how good of a thrower are these?

I own unmodified, stock Jacob A6 that I got for around 12$ a year or year and a half ago, and it has decent throw, so take this as reference light! I know that with A6 I can tell apart trees in a pine forest 400 meters away, thats for reference of somewhat usable throw out of mine.

The A6 is a tube light with a small reflector. It isn’t going to throw anywhere close to your jacob. The D80 will have more throw than the A6, but it will take a lot to get it to match the jacob. There are very few lights under $50 than can out throw a jacob.

Yeah, the Jacob is an outstanding stock thrower, and cheap. This is not a thrower at all.

Ah, sorry, totally ignored the fact that this is tube light, sorry and thank you :D!

Anyone have a link for this Jacob?

It’s a new one on me.

Thanks,

-Chuck

What kind of XP-L emitter will be installed? XP-L HI? Is the NW Led also an XP-L?

Thank you, Pilotdog68!

-Chuck

Not sure exactly what tints and bins it’ll be, but the emitters are intended to be regular XP-Ls (not the factory de-domed ones).

Nice on both counts, I guess I was misunderstanding mode 1 of the 4 mode option. I may just sacrifice the 7 mode option which I really like to keep it in 4 group just so I don’t have to go through moon every time if I like the spacing (and switch back and forth of course).

I don’t know how you’d do it, but if moon could be not in the normal mode chain selection and yet instantly accessible, that would be best for all I think. Maybe a press and hold for seconds turn on moon or something? Instantly accessible first, yet not necessary to go through in light level selection (heck turbo would be nice this way too and utilized a lot). I really don’t know if that could work or if its feasible to do, just an idea for fine tuning etc. :slight_smile:

Also, is it possible to reverse the soldering option and have mode memory as a default and soldering to turn it off? Mode memory on and 4 modes sounds like the preferred settings for a gift/quasi-“muggle”/non-soldering blf user, hidden but instantly accessible turbo and moon would be icing here too for a perfect UI.

Sounds like you want a light with an e-switch. There’s only so much you can do with a reverse clicky.

1 in nw if it’s still possible

Yeah, sounds more like it, but I thought TK is doing so well on this, so maybe she can think up a miracle, she is the light goddess after all :slight_smile:

Only 2 bytes left:-(

-Chuck

Mode memory can be toggled now in config mode; no need to solder anything.

With memory off, moon is immediately accessible from off and turbo is only one step away. Just click to turn it on, half-press while counting “one one thousand”, then let go. It should go directly to turbo.

Xmas is coming after all and I can never think what to get dad or stepdad… I’m already in at 477 I think, please put me down for 2 more, 1nw, 1cw, cheers.

On second piece in NW for me please. I am already on position 578.
That means over all I want to get two of these Flashlights. Thanks.

Seeing that this will be a gifting item for some and probably the most complex clicking flashlight I’ll have for a long time, will there be instructions for the mode clicking included with the purchase of these flashlights when finished?

Also, how do I go about practicing flashing this driver now? I’m worried I don’t have the needed items to connect to the board for flashing. Please point me in the right direction.

Not sure that they’ll include a printed guide, but you can at least use the online files included in the firmware repository. Those include a text manual and a state diagram (which is sort of in progress).

To flash drivers, I suggest reading the README file linked from the firmware thread. It includes a variety of resources which should be useful.

FWIW, here’s the current interface diagram… it’s a little busy, but I’m not sure how to represent everything visually:

Short press = ascending level (ie. low to high)

Long press = descending level (high to low).

In other words: Short press Increases brightness, while long press decreases brightness.

I LOVE this UI!

Thanks TK!

-Chuck