They are totaly different!
Both are (unlinke the NCR18650B) high drain high current cells. So they keep a higher voltage under load. That is good because most cree leds have a fairly high forward voltage at 5A.
Check out following chart to understand better what I mean. Here it compares the slightly older but still good 25R to the NCR18650B at 5A load. As you can see the high drain battery (25R) has a higher voltage over the whole discharge range. So it can deliver higher power to the led. http://dampfakkus.de/akkuvergleich.php?akku1=141&akku2=490&akku3=&akku4=&akku5=&akku6=&a=5
…and tbh the 30Q or HG2 or MJ1 MH1 cannot beat the HE2/HE4 or 25R at max current, the more the capacity the more you compromize the current, at least with actual tecnology…
The HE2 should be a very small bit better than the HE4 (which someone reports to stay cooler) also they sag a bit less initially than 25R which however perform better in the final part of the curve
Here is the voltage sag under constant current
Green is NCR18650B
Blue is 25R
Red HE2
It also depends on you applications, if you have to draw 1A, i would choose the NCR18650 or some Sanyos with 3400/3500mAh, but if you tink your performance would be current dependant and the max you can ask the max should be delivered, than… IMR 2000/2500mAh is the way to go.
DBCstm did some measurements with different batteries and found that NCR18650B was the second-dimmest. It’s simply not a high-amperage cell so it doesn’t perform well in a light like this.
If I recall correctly, the LG HE4 should perform about the same as the Efest 35A. Also, later measurements went up to about 1600lm, with spring bypasses. On a production sample, I got 1400 lm from a 25R (performs like a Samsung 20R) with no modifications.
Thanks TK, for revisiting that little chart of the different cells. As y’all can see from that, YOU control a lot of the variables by a simple cell choice. Runtimes, heat output, and overall max lumens can be variable by the cell choice.
Gonna need light for more time but less of an issue of Turbo? Choose the Panasonic B cell for maximum run times with decent output. A Pan BD will give higher output but keep run times very respectable, as will the new Samsung 30Q and LG 3200mAh cells. Moving to the higher discharge versions will increase output but create more heat, less run time. YOU decide how these factors come into play when you pick the cell to drop in.
Loaning to a friend? Use a protected high capacity cell to limit potential noob issues and help ensure your light comes back unharmed. I really like how this works with the FET driver, and the FET +1 is so danged efficient in the lower modes a cell seems to last forever, even the top high discharge cells run well in the lower modes with a Turbo standby that is amazing!
This firmware has changed my preference for UI, I love it, use it a LOT and am disappointed with other lights that don’t have it. In short, this one is a spoiler!