Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

[ToyKeeper]

@scout24

With apologies for not reading 4500+ posts, I’ll ask: Anyone else think this would be sweet with an 18350 body available seperately or as an option? I’d take one…

I think you’re looking for this:

18350 Battery tubes for BLF A6, Eagle Eye A6 and X6, as well as codes for short Convoy S2+ tubes in Blue and Red!

Looks like NEW BARE tubes are at Banggood. HERE I am going to contact Customer service for a resend. Post here if you get a “new” one that fits… Bare tubes available now! Code: 11a743 O-Rings for Short tubes available HERE Code 30eed0 for $0.99 UPDATE 11/10 BLF or Eagle Eye tube (Select which type in window) Code (non affiliated): 76986f Price $2.50 Extra, Extra!!! Convoy S2+ Short tubes Code (non affiliated): 9eb033 Extra Clips Code BLF for 8% off KeepPower 18350 or Nitecore 18350 B…

[dthoang]

@dthoang

@Gj

I Received my four 3D’s. No visible defects in body, no dents, dings, color mismatches. All body sections disassemble by hand without grip pads and without having to gulp down a can of spinach. Three operate perfectly as expected.

The fourth is an anomaly. As others have described, in 7-group mode 1 has zero output and modes 2 and 3 are identical. I switched to 4-group and modes 1 & 2 are identical. I switched back to 7-group normally.

Here are some things i haven’t seen reported previously:

1. I tried to change back to 4-group again, clicking until the light went dark (careful that it wasn’t just in the non-working moon), but the indicator flashes never appears in many attempts. I used one of the other A6’s in config mode to get a feel for the timing of the flashes, then tried again estimating the time after it entered config mode and blindly clicking about where I thought the first set of flashes should appear and it switched to 4 group, so the program is running, just no indicator flashes.

2. Backing into the auxiliary group produces turbo > tactical strobe > no output > beacon. There’s no bike mode, the beacon is 3 bright flashes very close together, then about a 1 sec. of dark. Pattern repeats 64 times per minute.

Overall great lights, thanks to the whole team. I was also a little apprehensive looking at the UI flowchart but it’s quite easy and intuitive in hand once you get a feel for how long a long press needs to be.

I see same behavior with my driver and I think the 7135 is busted. I’m in the process of replacing it now. Will update when done.

I replaced the 7135 and all the modes work as advertised. So in my case, these symptoms proved to be due to bad 7135 or badly soldered 7135.

[MG1 (MG)]

Good to know. That’s what I (and Dale) suspected the problem was. Will try that.

[Rolz]

@ToyKeeper

@Muto

I am starting to think that the 3D batch may have sub contracted to another vendor below Manker. Just reading over the feedback of everyone who does have issues, 3D comes up as the majority suspect. Why would that run be different?

I don’t know what the actual truth of the matter is, but here’s one thing to keep in mind… The 3D tint sold more units than the other two combined, so statistically it should have more issues than the other two combined. It could be just a normal distribution.

It’s like if you have a dozen socks a drawer and eight of them are blue, if you grab one at random chances are it’ll be blue.

The first batch on sale was the 1A and 5A units. The second production covered the first release 3D torches. Given the production issues we’ve seen, it suggests that they we’re keen to rush out the 3D torches. Common sense would suggest that if they noticed Production issues on the first run, that they would correct to make sure that the second batch were better in Quality. It’s hard to know yet but some of the feedback seen on faults highlights issues all round, tailcap screws, switch not working, glued head, poor boring of tube, driver soldering and anodisation. It’s all over the place. On a positive not for the many who have a properly working torch they are extremely pleased.

[scout24]

Thank you for the heads up, Toykeeper!

[dthoang]

@ToyKeeper

@dthoang

The 3D works fine except for the stutter when switching from Turbo to moon.

That turbo-to-moon flash is something many of the BLF-based drivers have, and nobody seems to have found a definitive reason for it. However, I’ve heard that some have added an extra resistor to absorb the flash. My theory is that the C1 capacitor may be full when the light shuts off and it discharges all at once when turned back on again… but only if it was off for a very short time, and only if the light was using a very high level before. If it’s off for longer, C1 can discharge before turning on again, and if it turns on to a higher level, the flash is invisible.

I did some testing on this, and I found that the flash happens no matter what the firmware does. Even with both power channels turned off and the OTC discharged, it still happens. It’s an unsolved hardware quirk.

I have built many drivers described here and none exhibited the turbo-to-moon flash. My guess is in the component selection. I used NXP PSMN6R5-25YLC supplied by Mouser. This has double the RDSon compared to the PSMN3R0-30YL used by Manker. But the PSMN6R5-25YLC has much lower gate charge characteristics. I selected it to save money, but it looks like it works better.

When I have time I will swap the FETs in the Manker driver and report on the results.

[mattlward]

So, here is how it was packed inside of the thin envelope...

Nice box!

Very good presentation upon opening.

My initial impressions are that the light looks great! So I pulled the battery out of my light in the truck and it turned on, had to verify that ML is so low on it... I love that! Modes shifted as expected and without memory, gonna have to fix that. This little light has an incredibly even and round hotspot, I am not sure yet but maybe better than an S2+. Oh, and the tint... Wow 5A is awesome, this is my first 5A light! I am sure it will not be my last.

I had high hopes for the deep carry clip, but they were dashed when I tried to pocket it. It will not drop over the seam around the pocket of a pair of jeans. I will have to put a Convoy clip on it. Not a big deal, but I really wanted to be able to EDC this light in a jeans pocket.

When I took her apart, I found no lube on the switch end of the battery tube. Threads were still very smooth, gotta love that. With NO-OX-ID A they got even better. Took a little work to get the head off, but did find lube on those threads. I took out the driver retention ring but could not remove the pill... Anyone know how?

I love the light! Now I need to order my second one.

Matt

[thslw8jg]

Interested in this group buy,
PM sent

[Tom_E]

@dthoang

I have built many drivers described “here”:[WIP] 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM and none exhibited the turbo-to-moon flash. My guess is in the component selection. I used NXP PSMN6R5-25YLC supplied by Mouser. This has double the RDSon compared to the PSMN3R0-30YL used by Manker. But the PSMN6R5-25YLC has much lower gate charge characteristics. I selected it to save money, but it looks like it works better. When I have time I will swap the FETs in the Manker driver and report on the results.

Hhmm, I'd be interested in your findings. I get the flash on almost every FET+1 driver I've built, but I usually use the so-called high performance FET - the SIR800DP. Probably doesn't make much if any difference, but the flash to moon happens almost every time. A 20K resistor across the FET input (to grnd) helps reduce it, and reduces the flash that occurs. It seems to go from consistent to intermittent.

[saypat]

It’s like if you have a dozen socks a drawer and eight of them are blue, if you grab one at random chances are it’ll be blue.
[/quote]

… reminds me of that old question. If you have 25 white socks in a drawer along with 25 black socks, and it is pitch black in the room, how many socks would you

have to take out to make sure you had a matching pair?

[pilotdog68]

@Tom E

@dthoang

I have built many drivers described here and none exhibited the turbo-to-moon flash. My guess is in the component selection. I used NXP PSMN6R5-25YLC supplied by Mouser. This has double the RDSon compared to the PSMN3R0-30YL used by Manker. But the PSMN6R5-25YLC has much lower gate charge characteristics. I selected it to save money, but it looks like it works better. When I have time I will swap the FETs in the Manker driver and report on the results.

Hhmm, I’d be interested in your findings. I get the flash on almost every FET+1 driver I’ve built, but I usually use the so-called high performance FET  - the SIR800DP. Probably doesn’t make much if any difference, but the flash to moon happens almost every time. A 20K resistor across the FET input (to grnd) helps reduce it, and reduces the flash that occurs. It seems to go from consistent to intermittent.

I’ve built quite a few of these myself. I’ve only had one exhibit that behavior. It was one of two e-switch lights I have (not sure if that makes a difference)

[ToyKeeper]

@mattlward

I took out the driver retention ring but could not remove the pill… Anyone know how?

There is no separate pill. The body section with “BLF” on it effectively is the pill, and the driver retainer screws directly into it. So, remove the bezel and battery tube and you should be left with the pill.

[mattlward]

In front of the LED, right?

[zebroo]

@Gj

I Received my four 3D's. No visible defects in body, no dents, dings, color mismatches. All body sections disassemble by hand without grip pads and without having to gulp down a can of spinach. Three operate perfectly as expected.

The fourth is an anomaly. As others have described, in 7-group mode 1 has zero output and modes 2 and 3 are identical. I switched to 4-group and modes 1 & 2 are identical. I switched back to 7-group normally.

Here are some things i haven't seen reported previously:

1. I tried to change back to 4-group again, clicking until the light went dark (careful that it wasn't just in the non-working moon), but the indicator flashes never appears in many attempts. I used one of the other A6's in config mode to get a feel for the timing of the flashes, then tried again estimating the time after it entered config mode and blindly clicking about where I thought the first set of flashes should appear and it switched to 4 group, so the program is running, just no indicator flashes.

2. Backing into the auxiliary group produces turbo > tactical strobe > no output > beacon. There's no bike mode, the beacon is 3 bright flashes very close together, then about a 1 sec. of dark. Pattern repeats 64 times per minute.

Overall great lights, thanks to the whole team. I was also a little apprehensive looking at the UI flowchart but it's quite easy and intuitive in hand once you get a feel for how long a long press needs to be.

I received my two flashlights - one 3D and one 5A.

Everything is perfect with the 3D light.

As to the 5A - read the quote above. The light behaves exactly as Gj described with the main problem being "No moon, two modes at the same level, no battery check"

[BLightSam]

Just got a supposedly 3D. It’s yellowish than CW. Greatly relieved that no offset tube and switch issues. The first thing I wanted was set to memory mode. Somebody posted this: [EDIT: posted by Halo…]

Click 15 or more times.
The light will slowly blink twice then pause (go off).
Wait until it blinks again then click the light off.
You have now toggled the memory mode on/off.

Is the above click full, short or medium?

Do you pause in between the 15 clicks?
When exactly does the blink twice happen?
How long is the pause in between the blinks?

As you can tell so far unable to set to memory mode.

[saypat]

excuse my stupidity, I just want to make sure that the item in this picture unscrews into two parts? Thank you.

[mattlward]

Just found it, thought I had to short 3 to 4 but decided to play awhile… now I do not have to take it all the way apart!

Turn light on, soft click until it turns off and on the 4th blink turn the light off and memory is enabled! Now it is perfect, 7 modes, real moon and memory!

Matt

[bugsy36]

Saypat - Yes :)

[bugsy36]

Sam - Give me a minute to edit this and I will explain how

• With palm in front of light, half-press until light stops coming on
• when light stops coming on there are two sets of two flashes
• The first set of flashes is to change the quantity of modes 7>>4 or 4>>7
• The second set is for memory
• If you want to change quantity of modes...turn the light off immediately when you see the first flash from the first set
• If you want to set memory...SKIP the first set of flashes until the second begins and when you see the second begin turn light off immediately

[BLightSam]

@mattlward

Turn light on, soft click until it turns off

Mine does not turn off

and on the 4th blink

How fast is the blink? Like a strobe?

turn the light off and memory is enabled! Now it is perfect, 7 modes, real moon and memory!