Code expired several weeks ago.
Now...
Pair: http://www.banggood.com/2PCS-INR18650-30Q-3000mah-20A-Power-Li-ion-Battery-for-Samsung-p-1015666.html M4D30Q $9.99
Pair boxed: https://www.fasttech.com/p/2363400 $11.59 (with BLF -5%)
Only one...
Boxed: https://www.fasttech.com/p/3935802 $6.23 (with BLF -5%)
Crap bag: http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_196913.html $4.59
Thank you!
I just wanted to take a moment to say THANKS for putting this light together and making it available.
My wife has accepted the fact that I’ve had a lifelong addiction to flashlights. And these days she even appreciates the practical application of having multiple flashlights handy around the house. So I didn’t catch any grief when I ordered 4 (3 WW and 1 NW).
Life has me far too busy to indulge my hobbies, so I’ve come to appreciate stuff that just works right out of the box. This light is just right in it’s size/function/options. It’s got a good default UI out of the box that ANYONE can appreciate and options that modders can play with.
I prefer truly neutral lights, but tend towards warmish. Once I ordered a NW to compare with my WWs I could more readily notice the slightly rosy hue of my WW. And I can also notice a slightly greenish hue to my NW. But different eyes see different things. I like photography as a hobby and so does a buddy of mine. I notice that his photos he chooses as favorites tend towards the bluish while mine tend to look warmer. Bottom line is, if I’ve got to pick a side that deviates from truly neutral(high CRI), then I prefer warmer colored light.
I keep revisiting this very long thread looking for comments on options to give my 4 A6s a slight glow for easy location in the pitch darkness of night. But I never get enough time to finish. Or I get sidetracked chasing a rabbit down a hole like the Nitecorn reference…very funny. Anyway, could someone kindly point me in the direction of readily available (& frugally priced) GITD switch boots for these? Or other suggestions for a simple mod to help me locate my A6s in darkness?
Hi guys,
Hoping someone can help me here, I’ve bought one of these torches as a xmas present that arrived today.
Unfortunately it appears to not be working!
I really can’t see it being a battery issue (despite my current ultrafire batteries not fully charging on a new intellicharger i2 charger, they work fine in my other WF501B torch!), so maybe I’m being a numpty or it is indeed a faulty torch…
Can anyone help please? I’m about to order some new batteries but wanted to check here first.
Torch was bought from Banggood and is the 3D Black anodised version.
Thanks all!
GITD tailcap boots are total gimmick. I got one from Simon, and it just barely glows in pitch black room after being charged with another flashlight. Your only option is this. Check out couple of last pages for latest version.
Make sure that the light is actually not lighting up. The first mode is so low that you must place the light close to your hand to see if it is on. Most DOA issues have been solved and it is usually the first mode so low that many think the light is DOA. If still nothing then refer to that thread.
+1 on the moon mode. mine are so low you really cant see it lit in a bright room, certainly less then half a lumen.
There are a few different possible causes. Glad you joined to get help and stay in touch while you work through the possibilities. Power flows through the driver, led, body, and tail switch and any one of these can have a fault. If you remove the bezel(front section with lens) under that is the led on a metal core printed circuit board(mcpcb) with two wires soldered to it, sometimes those solder joints are bad and sometimes where those wires attach to the driver whose underside can be seen from the other side of the second section of the light are poorly soldered. Since the threads are anodized, current can only flow through the silver deanodized ends of the battery tube which must be in contact with bare metal in the head and tail. In the tail the bare metal is bare aluminum but in the head it is the brass driver retaining ring. Sometimes the battery tube will not screw in far enough to make contact with one of these areas. On a few lights the driver has not been securely clamped by the ring resulting in a bad ground and no light. One if the easier issues to fix involves the rubber switch boot. It might be preloading the switch just enough to hold it open even though it clicks. To check this first test the light by removing the tail cap and installing the battery and use a paper clip to make contact between battery - and the silver edge if the tube. If the light comes on then the problem is in the tail cap. Remove the brass ring from the tail cap(standard right hand thread) and take out the switch, aluminum washer, and rubber switch boot and reinstall all but the rubber boot and try it again. If it works then then you need to shorten the rubber post in the switch boot a small amount. If it doesn’t work then the switch itself might be bad.
After you get your BLF A6 Special Edition flashlight working, you should probably buy a new battery for it. Most of the experts here at BLF do not care for brands that end with xxxx-Fire. The quality is hit and miss. Sometimes you get a good battery, but all too often you get a counterfeit and/or a grossly inferior product. Some of them are dangerous.
The Samsung 30Q is one of the batteries that has been recommended for the A6. BLF member M4D M4X can get you a coupon code good at Banggood. Send him a PM to inquire. I bought two.
If you have not already learned about Li-ion batteries, study up a bit by reading in the battery forum. The 30Q is an unprotected battery. That's okay in the A6 flashlight, because it has a low-voltage cutoff circuit built in. Before using unprotected batteries in other flashlights, however, you should be confident that you know what you are doing. Unprotected batteries can be dangerous if you allow them to become over-discharged.
This is a simple test that even I can do! It isolates a problem to one end of the flashlight or the other. All you have to do is insert a battery, and short (i.e., connect) the back of the battery (i.e., the negative end), to the body of the flashlight. The silver-colored end of the body tube (rather than any of the black areas) is the easiest place to make contact.
If the flashlight lights up, then the problem is in the tail cap, the switch, or the connection between the body tube and the tail-cap. If the flashlight does not light up, then something in the head (probably the emitter or driver) is broken.
Is there a code that brings the price down to 25USD? I’ve read that there use to be a code for such a price, but the code on the First Post (only :P) brings it down to 30USD.
Just want to ask before I purchase this light and some 18650 batteries.
Thanks
The initial group buy price was 24.95. Price went up after we bought our initial batch......
Figured as much. I’ll buy a light and some 30Q batteries. Will probably end up buying a XTAR VC4 charger as well. First time dabbling in 18650 lights, pretty excited.
In case you aren't aware:
The AstroLux S1 is perfect clone of A6, some say even better quality. It includes the short battery tube as well. Code: astrolux brings price down to 29.95 also.
Read about the S1 here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/36500
When the BLF A6 phases out, the Astrolux S1 will shine on...
same light different name. the 18350 tube is a nice extra.
Looks like you swayed my purchasing decision… Darn!
And those S1's are supposed to be in the US warehouse but I don't see it available yet at Banggood site.
Yeah, that’s what I read on the other thread. I’ll see if they go active in the next 24 hours. Fingers crossed
Good Idea. You'll be liftin' your whiskers to piss before getting it from China to your door with Holidays upon us...