I don't feel so lonely now. Our own little non understanding club that appreciates the work the very talented few here do.
Nope, it doesn’t work that way. 
This one’s perfect now anyway so I was just askin. 
More features and I wouldn’t be able to work it. This one is easy, straightforward, and intuitive. I won’t forget how it works. More stuff and I’ll forget.
Will this firmware work on the WIP fet + 7135 driver that is Wight made, or will this driver be different and software not compatible?
What I’m using is a FET + 7135 driver designed by wight, so … yeah, I’m pretty sure it should work.
Currently, STAR_offtime and “starry-offtime” both work on it, plus the firmware I’m making for this particular light. The first two are already published, and the third will be available for modification soon.
This is the driver that we (term used loosely :) ) are working on
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/31102
It is not an absolute done deal but that is we we are headed towards. It's purpose is to have a suitable or acceptable moonlight and yet still have FET. ToyKeeper is a genius whereas the first three modes are on that 7135 and there is no voltage sag and the 7135 stays on except at all out turbo to minimize voltage sag on the FET.
This is the same driver PLUS the addition of a 7135. Although there already was dual PWM code available...ToyKeeper wrote one and tweaked the hell out of it :)
If there’s a hidden strobe mode in the final product, I’m in for 2 CW.
Yes, there is a hidden strobe in TK's firmware.
Excellent.
I am excited for your firmware. I have built a number of those drivers, but was using the original STAR_offtime with it’s limitations.
I think I have about 15 or so of those waiting to be assembled :bigsmile:
@Dale, 1659.45 lumens that is a lot :bigsmile: interesting that with the new firmware that don’t engage the 7135 at max, it now pulls less Amp but more lumens, i guess that means the 7135 just really held things back before just like TK explained.
The whole circuit looks to be so efficient now, that even slightly lower resistance ups the output a lot, maybe you could test an upgrade to 18ga wires from the driver if it fits? I think i remember you using 22ga silicone wires now, that is the last & only thing i could possible think of that could up the output even the slightest bit more 
and if a 18 gauge wire don’t up the output, then at least we would know that a 22 gauge is good enough.
I just got a bunch of nice wires in various gauges from RMM today, so i will try to learn what trade offs there is with regard to wires sizes and what is really needed at different expected Amps before i get noticeable losses.
@Dale & TK, what is the R1 resistor value you are using now? i will probably order some FET+7135 boards from ospark as soon as wight’s latest soldereable star improvement is ready and i just want to make sure i got the needed resistor values for the values calibrated in your firmware.
@TK, i like that 4 & 7 mode possibility, i know people requested a 4 mode driver & the cube-root model for visually linear output between modes is a very nice improvement also, i wish i could understand it mathematically but my mind just can’t process too advanced math successfully, i just get a headache when i try 
but i am glad others like you can and we all get to benefit from it
Forget about it :) TK's kindness being willing and wanting to help has added a whole new dimension to what we (at least "I") thought would be possible here. At best I grab a bit here and there (no pun intended) :)
I do not know when Wight will finish or publish the driver with the star. He has been extremely busy. We currently are using without the star and if you already have the other components I would just go with it. If you haven't used this driver yet (even without the 7135) you are in for one hell of a treat. :)
I have said this before and I will keep saying it.... For those that do not build their own drivers the 17DD from RMM is what started this whole thing. I built an S2 Triple with that to start and just built a couple more with that 17DD. If anybody is holding out just for Wight's driver they are actually depriving themselves. It is well worth the money! :) and.....it CAN be used with 2 cells with a Zener mod.
- Richnpc NW
Please put me down a CW also.
Correction for Clarity on Bugsy’s 2 cell statement…
It can be used with 2 cells with the proper changes, the Zener addition and a swap of a 200 ohm resistor in place of the diode. What this does is allow the use of 6V emitters. This DOES NOT enable 2 cell use with a single XM-L2, XP-L, XP-G emitter. The purpose for the Zener is to protect the MCU from 8.4V from the 2 cells. You’ll still be feeding 8.4V into the emitter and will fry a single 3V emitter. This mod works for the XHP series as well as the MT-G2 and any other set-up that requires 6-8V. It won’t power 9V, ie: triple standard emitters.
You could, however, use a 2S2P set up and power a Quad with the Zener mod. (works beautifully) To clarify, 4 XP-G2 or 4 XM-L2 or 4 XP-L emitters, wired 2 pairs in parallel, run very well on 2 Li-ion cells. I built a Quad XP-L for an Solarforce L2X this way and it’s very cool. (the legendary meat tenderizer light). This is the way the Quad mcpcb is set up to be used, making it super easy to wire with a lead on each side of the board and no 3rd wires or jumpers.
We now return you to the regular scheduled program already in progress…
@bugsy36
I got an BLF X6 with the BLF17DD driver & and plan to build a triple with one, all i need is the host that is in the mail, so yeah i get you a good FET driver is an improvement to almost any light, if it is more output you are after
I am in no rush i can wait, i spoke to wight by PM’s and he offered to send me the needed gerber to order it from ospark, but that may have been an older version, because TK indicated a recent change of the star to the battery side, and that is something i have been wanting since wight started this whole A17DD-SO8 journey that eventually resulted in the FET+7135 driver, if feel the configurable star plus TK’s firmware for the 2 PWM’s driver really makes it usable for most uses even without tuning the firmware for different mode setups.
Cajampa, the proper set up is a 223 at R1 and the standard 4702? at R2 (memory strikes again) We used to use an 1912 (19,100) at R1 as it was what was on a standard 105c and allowed the parts to be moved over from that cheap driver. The 223 (22,000) is now used to set proper low voltage protection for our use.
I don’t know if the mosfet used in these samples is contributing to the output numbers, but this one is the PSMNO9. And the phosphor bronze springs from djozz, wire by-passed. So this is exemplary of top performance with a couple of small tweaks over what will be available from Eagle Eye. (bypasses, possibly spring material although that is being worked on)
Yes, I used 22ga wire. I have 20ga and 18 ga so that can be tried if desired. The 18ga might interfere with the shallow reflector, head space is at a premium in this light. I bet I can think of something though…
Y’all, please remember that the output numbers I quote are from the cell I use and the set-up I have. Every cell I try shows somewhat different results, whether it’s the same brand and model or not. So these numbers are an example, not carved in stone.
All 7 modes as will be switched?
I put 20ga wires on the driver, got some pics of the driver and the new reflector. Bad news is that the polished McGizmo (it was orange peel, I polished it and quit too early) doesn’t have the output I had before. Drops down to 1418 lumens but has a more defined central hot spot. Tit for tat, as it were. The good news is that the 20ga wires brought up power level a little, not significantly but a little… from 6.53A to 6.67A.
And, uh, well, it would seem I’ve lied. I built ToyKeepers driver with the O9 Mosfet, thought I had used that for mine as well. Mine is the lower O3 model. Oops! But this is actually good news because it’s the cheaper one that will most likely get used.
Uploading a video library to youtube, will be back…
Can you do back to back tests with the two FET’s to get a good number on power difference?
Dale - your wife must be the sweetest angel in the world OR you are already living in a tent in the backyard and haven't told us yet. 
Thanks Dale, so a 22k 1% 0805 smd instead of the usual 19,1k at R1 is whats required to match TK’s calibrated values in this new firmware but still the 4,7k at R2.
Interesting so you got 2,1% Amp improvement going from 22ga to 20ga wire at ~6.5A, that is good to know.
Ii assume you mean the R0 and not O3 otherwise you are using different MOSFET that is not the PSMNO9 or the PSMN3R0?
So am i understanding your video right, did you polish the original stock OP reflector to smooth? the reason i am confused is in the video you show 2 reflector one OP & one smooth, i though you only had one sample? and now i understand why you used 20ga……that already is tight with the reflector.
EDIT now i get it, a McGizmo is a reflector from another light, so you still have the stock OP reflector, please check what lumens readings you get, from the 2,1% more Amp improvement you got from the 20ga wires.
How did the smooth affect the throw?
I agree that a back to back test of the 2 FET’s would be very interesting and that it is good news that you are getting this good numbers out of the cheaper one
@bugsy36, there is a lot of worse things a man can do as a hobby than flashlights 