I haven't followed that driver closely so although I understand the basic premise I am in the dark about it's functionality and the firmware required. If it can work and is just as easy of a build I am all for it.
I don’t mind making firmware for this if people want me to. Before that though, there are decisions to make about the UI (and possibly the hardware).
For example, how many modes? What order? Will we have a way for people to set options through soldered stars? How low should the lowest mode be, and is it okay if the lowest mode is nearly invisible on a low battery? Do we want short/long press only, or short/med/long? Do we want any blinkies (battcheck, beacon, strobe, SOS)? If so, how should they be accessed? Mode memory, or not? How long should the turbo timeout be? Should turbo affect only the top mode or the top two or three?
My personal preference is 6 modes, low-to-high including moon, no solder stars, short/med/long presses, at least a battcheck mode (maybe other blinkies too), hidden modes accessed via “backward from first mode”, no mode memory.
Something like this, for example:
That side chain (turbo, battcheck) can be extended with more blinky modes if desired. This is just to illustrate the general idea.
With djozz’s spring on the driver it pulls 6.27A.
6.27A from a $20 light with a little work and a good battery………looks like another 1000 unit sales.
Dale,
Thanks for your testing on this light for everyone here.
:bigsmile:
- Mode memory I don't just want...I really do need.
- Low to High.
- The spacing that Dale used I think is good and allows for finding a comfortable spot no matter what battery you use.
- Forward / backwards can be open to discussion.
- Batt check is fine but definitely Low Voltage Protection
Hey Ed, it was pulling 5.91A through the stock springs. I made the driver, should be the same as we’re expecting them to make for this buy, so even without phosphor bronze springs or bypasses it’s a performer with a good cell, not at all shabby with a $1 lap pull. 
Yes, LVP isn’t an option. It’s required.
In general, the voltage would be roughly like this:
- > 4.2V: 5 blinks (4.35V cell?)
- 4.0V to 4.2V: 4 blinks (75% to 100% full)
- 3.8V to 4.0V: 3 blinks (50% to 75% full)
- 3.5V to 3.8V: 2 blinks (25% to 50% full)
- 3.0V to 3.5V: 1 blink (1% to 25% full)
- < 3.0V: 0 blinks, and will step down
- < 2.8V: will shut off
One blink basically means “change the battery, please” and zero blinks means “change the battery NOW!”. Otherwise, each blink represents approximately 25% of a full charge.
A $1 battery, your cheaper than me and that takes some work 
With djozz’s springs top and bottom, the A17DD-S08 driver and the XP-L on copper, with a fresh but rested 35A it pulls 6.27A and makes 1555.95 lumens at start.
Still no bypasses, simple straightforward easy for them to accomplish stuff here.
Edit: Oh, and by the way, the battery tube is NOT reversible!
What lappy pull is doing 5+ amps??
The Efest 35A did 5.91A with stock springs. Lap pull cells are Sanyo UR18650FJ at 4.21A and Samsung 26C at 4.24A, we’re still talking close to 1300 lumens with the lap pulls though.
Please put me down for 3NW and 1CW
I would be interested in 2. 1 in both NW and CW.
Since the driver has at least one (maybe two) unused attiny pins, do you think we might be able to add a solderable star (or two) on the spring side?
This would allow people to individually choose if they want mode memory or not. It’s a topic I doubt people will reach consensus on.
Wight is probably the best person to answer that. If it (star) could be added I would prefer that "off time memory" be the default and "no memory" be via the star.
You are 100% correct. There will not be complete consensus. If the change can be made in the design and Wight does not mind then again I am ok with it.
I hope it is possible that would make the FET+7135 driver even better, with some tuning possibility for those without flashing equipment.
That is the one thing the BLF17DD still has an edge on, the solderable stars, and with all the room at the bottom of the single sided drivers, it could even be possible to solder the star without taking the driver out from the light at all
I have received many PM's about this subject. I have answers now.
- The Noctigon is a "no go". It is an exclusivity agreement in the distribution channel that prevents EE from getting them unless only at retail.
- The Sinkpads pose a currency issue.
- The MCPCB must come from Maxtoch because we are 100% positive of DTP and its performance.
Thanks for explaining that bugsy36, that is something i have thinking about since the BLF X6 also, it make sense now and good to know.
Although i wonder if we could just buy say 200 (if that is how many light is going to be made for example) xp 16mm sinkpads II and just mail it to them, Dale just bought a bunch of XHP70 stars like that……….
I don't know but the logistics of keeping track could be a nightmare. We will just have to see how it pans out. We have not even hit the 250 mark to propose an extra MCPCB to be included in each light (although we are at 188)
1 CW
1 NW