Thankfully though, my one sample works as should.
Can you please explain, you moved o-ring that was between glass and reflector, and put it between head and glass?
So there was no o-ring there in the first place?
Thanks!
(note to self: slow down when taking things apart)
Hi guys. I ordered one in 1A tint with the intent of de-doming it as I don't like cool white's. I ordered it when there were only 1A's left. I feel bad for all that received bad ones. Mine was pretty much perfect as I received it. But,,,,I de-domed it, added so more thermal paste under the mcpcb (the solder job was even done pretty good) then I cut a little bit of rubber off from the back side of the switch boot as it was to touchy the way it was. Soldered a jumper wire on the switch spring to help with some of the current loss. Boy she gets hot fast. I might take the driver out and put it in one of my Convoy lights, C8 maybe? Then I might as will check the solder job on driver since it will be out. A BIG thank you for ALL who was involved with this light.
Are you serious. This made the ui and light more special than it already was! Thanks for such a fantastic light!
Thanks for the link! I didn’t even know this thread existed haha
Yes. At least mine only have three o rings. The one above the reflector didn’t seem to be doing much so I put it against the glass hoping to keep any water out at the outer most part I could. Ymmv! 
OK, mine do get weird — the UI sequence does get weird when they’ve heated up, on all three lights I bought.
(acts like the length of the short and medium clicks gets shorter and shorter once it’s hot)
Do we assume that means bad soldering inside and ask for replacement based on suspicion that’s the problem?
Or is it appropriate to open it up and take pictures if that’s a visible problem inside, try to resolder it, and then ask for a replacement if needed?
I don’ t want to leap into complaining if it’s still being figured out.
And if we specified hardware that fails when (over)heated — well, that’s a case of “…. hurts when I do this” … “Well, don’t do that!” as far as I’m concerned.
I seriously doubt that you would have believed that it made enough of a difference to scrap all the pieces.
No, it means the capacitor drains faster when it’s hot, and the capacitor is how the light measures “off time”. This isn’t something Banggood can fix for you.
We’re trying to identify better driver components and get Manker to use them, to make the driver less temperature-sensitive. DEL made a very helpful suggestion which improves things, but it’s not totally solved yet. So if you need it to be more consistent at different temperatures, the fastest way to achieve that is to buy one of RMM’s drivers. He uses the best components available, which makes them much more temperature-resistant.
Im sure this is covered somewhere in the 100’s of pages in this thread, forgive me if I missed something obvious.
Will this be restocked?
Found the answer I was looking for. October apparently for the US store.
On worn out laptop pull batteries the UI on one of my lights works fine even when it heats up. So another solution is to use Ultrafire batteries and not bypass the springs 8)
Hank - If need be...turn it off for 2 secs. Cools very fast IMO. It is a driver design and component issue that has nothing to do with Banggood or even Manker. We told them what to build.
FWIW - Literally using my light(s) for hours everyday..I do not find myself constantly changing modes. I usually find one for the task and stay there, which is why it never reared its head with me and I would assume for most.
No way……Must have bright*#& turbo…… must melt faces…. and burn trees!
But honestly mine don’t seem that bad but now that you mention it my 26’fs might not be getting it hot enough. 30q’s should be here soon and we’ll see. I really don’t see the big deal…. fast click once it’s hot and you’ll get the mode you need. Why let it sit on turbo till hot if your trying to get to hidden modes? 
+1 bugsy36!
It seems to cool down fast enough.
By the way for those who don’t know you’re not necessarily suppose to throw a light in turbo and walk away. Let some of that heat leach into your hand!
Ordered mine 10 days ago and still hasn’t shipped 
No worries then. Just wanted to be sure I knew what was an appropriate test for a problem, vs. what not to do.
Have I said lately that these lights are fantastic?
And they won't until early October AFAIK. 
The lights (all tints) are back in Stock according to the webstore.
Time to go buy some lights.
hank, you may want to hold off. I’ve already posted this in ReManG’s short tube thread and dudunphy’s repair/mod thread, but I’ll put it here too, so everyone can see:
I checked my Olight S20-L2 clip last night and it does definitely fit the A6 host. However, there is a problem with the Olight clip. It doesn’t hold on very well. I had always wondered why if I bumped into anything, there was always a good chance the light would drop. Now, I think I understand. Comparing the Olight clip with the A6-SE clip, the Olight clip doesn’t wrap as far around the circumference. So, a bump can cause the clip to let go of the light. I’d forgotten about that until I bumped the door of my car getting in last night, and the A6-SE fell to the ground! 
Maybe if they just follow the actual clip while keeping the same "reach"? Just a thought............