Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available

it expired - i try to get a new one!
(if its urgent use “BLF” ;))

I just wanted to post my thank you as well. I have now purchased 5 of these guys. 3 are still in the mail but could not be happier with my purchase.
Neil

Hello… Just purchased the A6 and was wondering on a recommended a 18650 battery and charger, Any links or info would be great!! Thanks all

Samsung 30q -http://www.banggood.com/1PCS-NR18650-30Q-3000mah-20A-Power-Li-ion-Battery-for-Samsung-p-981565.html

I also snagged some efest from Richard and couldn’t be happier (awesome guy - fast shipping)
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_88&product_id=216

I just have a cheap nitecore charger.
Neil

After ordering my light 4 days after the code was sent out, I FINALLY received the light yesterday.
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  1. Trying to remove the driver retaining ring (to check connections and re apply better thermal paste under the LED,) the bezel turned, so I removed it and when screwing it back on, the LED was promptly dedomed, PERFECTLY! :party: I was ecstatic since I did not like the stock beam at all (I thought the reflector was deeper.) The beam shape got a lot better but the tint got a bit greener than I wanted. shrug. an acceptable sacrifice. (Stock LED was 3D) What I found weird was that when the removed dome bounced around in the reflector before I saw what happened, it left a lot of grease in there. :expressionless:
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  2. Of course, I realized that I have to remove the bezel again to desolder output wires to remove the star and driver. Grrr. On removal of the bezel, this time the bloody LED was torn right off the star. :~ Only after feflowing it back onto the star (yes, DTP), I realized that the bond wires were broken and the LED DEAD. :weary: I was pissed off. I maybe got 10 minutes use out of the light. (My first XPL LED too. ;( )
    .
    My conclusion is that the insulating ring is such a tight fit in the reflector that it puts a lot of strain on the LED when the bezel is being screwed in or out. I took a file and filed the part that goes into the reflector a little thinner.
    .
    Besides the gripes, I LOVE THE UI!! Today I braided the springs and put in a NW, XM-L2 and will use it like that till I buy another XP-L. Thank you BLF!

So funny you say that. I have to admit I am new to the mod’n world of lights yet I have plenty of time spent on my rc quad / plane addiction to be comfortable with a solder iron and have a small reflow oven to work with. Upon receiving my first batch of BLF A6s I took them out the first evening and was amazed as I am sure everyone else was. I took them back inside and wanted to checkout the ‘guts’ so I simply unscrewed (being careful as I have learned all too many times in the past if you take certain things apart quickly it never fails something small will fall out and be next to impossible to put back together) the head of the light. next thing I know I looked and sure enough the damn led had dedomed itself and must have busted one of the wires to the led had been broken as well killing the light not 10 minutes after having it in hand. I have noticed the exact same thing that you cannot even tighten down the head of the torch without spinning the little white led bezel and smacking the led/dome… I am glad I am not the only one who destroyed their torch right out of the package. needless to say I immediately purchased another 3d tint led from richard at mountain electronics to re-solder it to the torch.

So if its any help to anyone else be very gentle when removing the head of the torch.

Neil

Any chance at something for LG HG2s? Thanks.

30Q x 4pcs. http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_232875.html $19.59

It’s interesting hearing that so many people de-domed their LEDs by accident. I’ve taken apart an A6 head at least fifty times now and haven’t de-domed anything that way. However, I can see how it’d be nearly impossible not to if the bezel, lens, o-ring, reflector, and centering piece were to all get stuck together.

The main thing I have difficulties with is getting the thing closed without popping the o-ring out over part of the reflector. It seems like either the o-ring is slightly too small or the reflector’s outer front edge isn’t shaped quite right. I think I prefer the Convoy method of putting the o-ring in front of the lens.

Stretch the oring a few times, enlarging it temporarily. It should be big enough not to pop out while you screw the bezel.

I noticed my 2 lights have different AR coatings on the lens. The one from the first batch is a very light green, the one from later in September is the normal purple.

green or purple AR on lens what is the difference in use? (my eyeglasses also come in green and purple versions)

The pocket clip is driving me bananas….keep popping off. I nearly lost a clip because it went flying, didn’t hear it land, but felt the weight in my pocket shift, reached for the light and realized what had happened. Use the light to look for its own clip!

My light was from the first batch and there is a thick ‘O’ ring on top of the window. Because it is thick, it hasn’t bulged at all. For lights that bulging happens with, I wash window, bezel and o ring thoroughly to remove all grease. Grease encourages o ring to slip. If that doesn’t work, I use shoo goo and create a seal of my own. You can probably try gluing the o ring to the bezel after washing too.

Almost exactly 3 weeks from order to unboxing. I am now in possession of my first high performance flashlight. I love it. The centering ring does show signs of a little twisting, so I’m a little afraid of taking of the reflector to see what the solder job looks like for risk of de-doming it.

Even running from a laptop pull that has not seen a charger in over a year (but metered out at 3.7v) it blows me away. I can’t wait to get the cells I ordered at the same time and get a charger to top them all off to see what it will really do.

Thanks to everyone who made this happen and such a cool place to hang out.

The O-ring is a little too small AND the notch (right angle) should be a groove (u-shaped).

The right angle notch should be used with a “square cut O-ring”

(Compare flashlights where the O-ring is meant to go in front of the lens and truly seal the space — those have the bezel metal rolled over slightly to make a rounded groove to hold the round O-ring, the way God and Mao intended these things to be built.)

But as to getting the sizing right — as that page warns, there are two different standards in use:
Imperial (ISO 3601) and Metric (JIS B 2401, DIN 3771)

Not to mention different materials useful for different purposes, as also set out there.

You can’t just have the newest employee who fell off the potato cart go find something that sorta fits and stuff it in there and ship it.

Alas.

After ruining the led bond wires when on/off the head, I found take off/on the head with the head at bottom so that gravity prevents the o-ring, the square led “spacer’ and reflector from falling off or out of groove. Be sure to check the square led ”spacer” aligns with the led - upside down - when screwing back on.

I have found that if you push on the lens when taking apart or putting together it doesn’t turn the centering ring.

Thanks! Also sanding down the centering ring also helps a little, or securing it to the mcpcb with some adhesive.

Well. I got bare versions, only about 2-3 weeks for delivery this time. Overall, much better. Clip is slightly improved and no defects noticed (yet). I’m happy. Great group buy.