So my led dedomed and broke the contacts on led. Iam looking at mountain electronics website and they have a xml-U2 on noctigon, would that work and what size would I need? All I would have to do would be solder the positive and negative wires to the board right? Sorry for the questions never worked on led lights before
Any XP-sized emitter on a 16mm Noctigon should work. You might need to file down the edges a tiny amount to fit though. Just shaving off rough edges.
The easiest fits would be XP-L and XP-L HI, but XP-G2 and XP-E2 would work too, or you could discard the centering ring and use an XM-sized emitter. The ring helps keep the board in place though, so it’s best to keep it if possible.
Hello everyone-
I recently purchased 3 BLF A6’s all in the 3D tint. I just received my two bare aluminum versions and the tint seems to be way off from the anodized version I previously received. Take a look at the picture, the anodized 3D is on the right with the two bare 3D’s middle and left. Is there a way I can see if it’s possible that I received 5A’s instead of the 3D’s? Does this look right to all of you?
Purchase Dates:
9/17 - 1 x Anodized BLF A6 in 3D tint.
10/6 - 2 x Bare BLF A6 in 3D tint.
Looks to me like you have received two 3D (or 5A) and one 1A. - The 1A is for Sure.
Can’t blame you for being pissed.
I’m sure if you will contact Banggood, they will make it right for you.
-Chuck
@qwopzxnm, 
They should be the same, & it looks that you received 2 Bare BLF A6 with 5A tint.
Btw, a few days/week ago other people also reported receiving Bare 5A tint lights when they had ordered 3D tints.
Best Regards,
George
Chuck and George, thanks for the quick replies. Looks like I need to contact BangGood.
So now the question becomes whether I have two 5As and a 3D, or 2 3Ds and a 1A.
I know the anodized looks really blue in the pic but in real life it seems to have a really good CRI, especially compared to other “regular” LED lights that I have. That combined with the fact that others have been receiving Bare 5As when they ordered 3D’s leads me to believe that the two Bare ones I received might also have that problem.
Thanks so much for your help gentlemen.
-Matt
I know that you don’t know me, but trust me on this:
The one on the right is a (1) tint… Maybe 1A, or it could also be 1B - 1C. - Can’t really tell from a photo.
In any event, it Is a CW tint.
-Chuck
Taking the time to look closer, I do believe that you have two 3D and one 1A/1B tint here.
Sorry, but I can’t be precise without seeing them in person.
Thanks,
-Chuck
If you used auto white balance, it will be hard to judge the actual tint of your lights. My first sense was that the one on the right was cool white. When I look at the beams on the left, however, as they rake across the tabletop, they appear too warm to be 3D.
Can you set your camera to manual white balance? Use the daylight/sunshine preset. If the light on the right is 3D, that should get rid of most of the blue. At the same time, the two on the left should become even more yellow if they are 5A.
I’m pretty sure you mean they fit and would work size-wise, but I wouldn’t want to hook up a XP-E2 to this driver… Just saying, because from his post it seems that he (Lund1660) just wants to swap the LED-board.
To me it looks like 2 5As and a 3D on the right. I also got a 3D that I’m sure is 5A.
Looking at match’s test results for XP-E2, it looks like the Vf probably doesn’t rise fast enough to keep the emitter on the safe side of its output curve. So, I think you’re right. Probably shouldn’t connect an XP-E2 to a FET driver with an 18650 cell. XP-L and XP-G2 are both easy swaps though. 
Well, if it’s a very very weak 18650 cell, a XP-E2 should be fine. 
This was taken with white balance set to Day Light (Canon Powershot S70).
I see traces of green, but not a hint of blue.
These are slightly different tints from different lights… but on the left is a 5B emitter and on the right is a 3D. White balance was set to match a Nichia 219B at just a hair warmer than daylight. So, it looks like you probably got a 5A instead of 3D.
To me qwopzxnm lights look like two 5A’s and one 1A to the right, it is just to much blue & yellow for any of those to be a 3D.
I figured I would just ask you guys instead of guessing. If I plan on using my light for hunting, in the woods and in marshes- on the water , what color tint do you guys suggest? Thanks.
Warm for the woods and marsh IMO. More natural colors and sharper contrast vs cool white
ETA: Any mist or fog, warm is again the choice. Cool white would tend to reflect off mist, rain, fog and obstruct your vision.
Completely agree, WW in the fog, mist or rain is a thing of beauty.
So the 3d or 5a?