I used the PR-745 to capture 3D_MOON and 3D_Turbo in the lab. The original comment about IR contribution must have come from some contamination I had in original capture. The new shots in total dark have very little IR.
3D_Moon was at 4 inches from cosine window (could not get to 1 foot because sensor would not trigger).
3D_Turbo was at 1 foot from cosine window……lot of light.
as you can see from the CCT, they are very close to 4600Kelvin in color and not much difference from moon to turbo. There is about a factor of 100 difference in moon to turbo in terms of the number of photons/m^^2/sec.
I thought there might be some off-axis conversion to IR but did not see that. Hope this helps.
If someone can loan for for 2 days the other two color temperature lights, I will capture, post spectra, and return units.
AGAIN: does anyone for definition of the bike mode in how it is suppose to appear to the casual user?
tjcooper
Most definitely, please open a brand new thread (that way you can edit the Subject line from time to time if you update something worth calling attention)
Toykeeper here programmed the modes and probably has a description of the bike “stutter” mode somewhere. EDIT SEE NEXT POST FOR LINK TO THE DESCRIPTION
I recall that RMM (mtnenectronics) has a somewhat different “bike” mode due to using different amounts of memory for different things on a similar driver.
I don’t mean to hijack this thread but I’m not sure where to post this question about my BLF SE so maybe someone can steer me in the right direction. When I picked up my BLF SE light, I noticed there was crushed glass in the reflector. Upon further inspection, it appears the dome is shattered and the LED is gone. No idea what happened or when, but I like the light and would like to get it fixed. Is there a replacement head available or can someone suggest the cheapest fix. I bought it from the group buy and have the 18650 and 18350 tube for it. I still have the box and all accessories that came with it. Thanks for reading.
Just wanted to say thanks, I ordered one, received it, and its wonderful…. so I ordered another to give away. I got the 5A tint, its very warm, but thats what i wanted. Excellent work putting this together!
Instead of trying to get a replacement head, I ordered 2 LEDs’ from RMM, an XPG2 and an XPL HI. I de-soldered the wires and took the old emitter out so I shouldn’t have any problems putting a new one in. May have to sand the edges a little bit. Is it necessary to put the little plastic centering device back over the LED?
Thanks for the advice Rufusbduck. I think I saved that little ring. If not, hopefully RMM has some that I can order. And from looking back through the thread, looks like I need to get some Arctic Alumina paste, not adhesive. I plan on putting the XPG2 in first and then if I don’t like it, replacing it with the XPL-HI. Curious to know if anyone here has had good results with an XPG2 in the A6. Seems like I remember someone, maybe Dale, putting in an XPG2. I will post my results after installing.
Either emitter will do fine and be a bit tighter than the stock XPL. When you do the mod, ease the edges of the wire holes in the pill and the slots of the mcpcb as well as the board edges that hang up on the pill. With only grease there’s a tendency for the holes and slots to act as scissors cutting the wire insulation. I use a small amount of grease under and some adhesive at the edge to further prevent this after mine shorted out this way. There was also a change made to a plastic ring with a round center hole instead of the square one that had a tendency to rip off the XPL dome. This isn’t a problem with XPL HI or XPG emitters.
Ah, that would be it. Are they the same except for a custom driver board? Apparently I’m really bored right now. I’m asking about the history of my flashlight. haha.
