Put me down for 1xNW
Thank you
Count me in for 2xCW please!
I already have #251 as a CW, better throw me down for a NW as well as this is getting over 500 and is going to be epic (unlike the X6 BLF edition flop)
Im #94-95
Hit me with a CW aswell. Great give away!
Eben? Wouldn’t happen to be Eben Upton, would it? :bigsmile:
As for the GPL and sharing the source: I think if Bang-good/EE takes that seriously at all, it will be to our detriment. As in, they just won’t use your code for the driver. It’s too easy for them to say “that’s too much like work”. After all, we are the ones wanting this driver and this firmware, not them. I’m not advocating that we “let them off the hook” about sharing the source. Just saying it might take a bit more of a push from us to get them to use the code at all, with the added complexity of the situation.
Just don’t mention that they need to provide a link to the source until after they start shipping lights.
At that point, due to the situation TK mentioned above, I think they’d just ignore you.
Where did you get the “1600 lumens” and which light does it apply?
ToyKeeper could give them the binary under a different license if she wants, it’s her code.
Read her post above for reasons why this will never happen. Besides, I like the GPL and I’m glad TK uses it for her code. If she changed the license to suit a cheap Chinese retailer and/or manufacturer, I’d be disappointed.
No group buy yet for the toolkit...but working on it :)
Lots of companies like to ignore the GPL license requirement to provide source, not just chinese companies, major international corporations too.
Well, yeah, there’s that too! 
Yes, if our partners balk at the license, we can just use a different license. This sort of thing happens all the time. It shouldn’t interfere with the group buy.
Nope. Moglen, not Upton.
DBCstm measured his prototype at about 1600 lumens with the best battery he could find, and (IIRC) bypassed springs. A more realistic estimate for unmodded lights with decent-but-not-amazing cells is probably about 1300 lumens.
My sample did 1555 without bypasses, just the phosphor bronze springs and the new driver. That’s over 6A in a small tube light. 
Before the new springs, I posted this group of test results….simply putting the factory emitter on a Noctigon and swapping in this driver.
Left click for a larger view.
Of course, adding better springs made it jump as did bypassing those springs. The goal is to get this set-up from the factory, and if we hit 500 plus we will probably get what we’re looking for. Even if they don’t do the springs, that’s an easy enough change for anyone with a soldering iron.
Edit: Fact of the matter is, going beyond 6A will require some more elaborate modifications, bypassing the pcb that the switch sits on will become necessary for anything but light use. The trace on the pcb that feeds the switch has been known to fry. That’s with pretty heavy long term use and in excess of 6A on the X6.
Question, is the bypass only done at the tailcap enough?, or driver side as well?
Hi, Count me in for 1 CW!
If there is a spring on the driver, bypass it as well. The spring will overheat at high current and sag, breaking your connection.
I like to put a solid brass post on the driver. A copper disc…. or nothing at all if you use button tops.
It may be pretty important to run the bypass through the printed circuit board and connect it directly to the switch for that bypass, as the trace that carries current from the middle to the outer edge for the switch contact has been known to burn when over 6A and under heavy use. With some of these triples and quads pulling in excess of 14A I automatically bypass that pcb.
Edit: Maybe I should clarify that a bit… if you’re planning on using a really hot cell like the Sony C5, LG HE-2 or Efest 35A then yes, bypass both springs. If you’re going to use a lesser cell, say a high capacity Panasonic BD or B or PF, then it probably isn’t necessary but would help get a bit more power through. With protected cells I would say you needn’t bother.
Planning to use flat top Samsung 25r with this light actually. To be honest this would be my first mod so I'm not sure whether I know what I'm doing. I did order some desoldering braid (oxygen free copper) for the bypass but I'm not sure how to solder these in such a tight space like a tailcap or smaller still, at the driver side.
Alohas, I’ll take one CW.
Mahalo!