So how many taps to you make to select the mode group and how do you select the mode memory on or off?
The way config mode works is:
- Fast-press a bunch of times until it stops lighting up.
- After a brief pause, it’ll blink twice. Turn the light off between those two blinks to toggle the mode group.
- If you didn’t turn the light off, it’ll then pause and blink two more times. Turn the light off between these two blinks to toggle mode memory.
- If you didn’t turn the light off, it’ll exit back to a regular mode.
When you turn the light back on, it will have new settings.
I got that from the diagram ToyKeeper, but I have been reading much worse diagrams and explanations for years and having to make heads or tails of them. Your diagram looks great, and I understood the click? in between the blinks on the config mode.
Perhaps an arrow pointing to a Click Now if you want to change modes oval in between the Blink representations would be clearer for those not used to reading diagrams? Great job overall, Thanks!
….is great. Maybe it’s a right brain - left brain thing, but the diagram works much better than text for me. Thanks!
Thanks for that clarification ToyKeeper. Once the light is in my hand, I have no doubt that I will be able to master it now.
The diagram is an excellent summary.
To my mind, it does need to be preceded by a thorough explanation in real words in order for a novice to really understand it.
Many, many thanks again!
Now just add that diagram to the OP and change the title for the correct driver model please.
This idea with short and long click is genius even you got only 4mode it helps a lot I guess
Great work and perfect Diagramm and discribe text
Thanks
Well, i am 99% sure they wont use 3D bin: its quite spendy and rare
Actualy nearly every time that i bought a FL with a neuthral light it came with a greenish tint, even S10 Barton/ or M2X/M21X…on second thought its maybe every time, especialy with an AR glass: like X6 for instance,so i`ve decided not to buy those anymore but CW( for dedoming) and i use my own emitters afterthat
Fenix PD60 had good 5000k tinted emitters inside by default though…
I would take one in NW
A minor issue. I understand the above instructions fine, but it might be confusing for some. If it blinks twice, you are already too late to switch of between the blinks. And you will set the mode memory instead.
It might perhaps be clearer and simpler(?) if the software was updated to something like this:
2. After a brief pause, it'll blink once. Turn the light off directly after this first blink to toggle the mode group.
3. Otherwise, wait for next blink and turn the light off directly after this second blink to toggle the mode memory.
4. If you don't do anything the light will return to the regular mode without any changes to the config.
plus 1 yes I know it is easy to say and hard to do. just preference.
I second that, I had similar experiences.
Thank you for your post!
Mitko said:
“Well, i am 99% sure they wont use 3D bin: its quite spendy and rare”
Why so rare? - Perhaps the reason for the additional cost is because the 3D tint is not designed as such, but is a ‘mistake’ made while shooting for another tint? - Seems to me though, that if they know how to make a 3D that it would be just as simple to make more, as it is (for instance) the ubiquitous 3C.
I have two 3D tinted lights, both the same model bought a few months apart, three years ago. - Both have the same tint to my eyes. - They are Budget Lights with “spendy, rare” emitters :-)… Romisen, with XPG -R5.
They have the Very Best tint of all of my lights.
So my Question: If Romisen (a budget light) can use a 3D, why then can’t EE use it for our ‘Special’ BLF A6?
It would seem to me, that a Large buyer like BLF should be given this consideration.
Not everyone will agree with my choice in a NW tint, of course, but do we really have to just take “run of the mill”, or whatever they have in stock, or can get cheaper?
Thank you,
-Chuck
You would not be too late; the window for pressing the button is actually a bit longer than that:
- The light turns on, signalling the start of the window when you can click to change the config.
- 100ms pass.
- The light turns off; 400ms pass
- The light turns on; 100ms pass.
- The light turns off; 400ms pass.
- The click window ends.
- 1000ms pass.
- The process repeats, but with a different setting.
So, the text and diagram suggest clicking between the two blinks, but it works fine if you click during the second blink or even a bit after the second blink. It’s not like those 3/5-mode nanjg drivers which only give you a split second to respond. I tried to make it easier and more forgiving for people who don’t have lightning reflexes.
Put me down for another CW please. Thank you.
and some questions about batteries…
- are both protected and non-protected 18650 OK?
- is there any particular min/max length requirements
Protected and unprotected work just fine.
Panasonic 18650B Protected
EVVA 18650B and 18650BD both Protected
Samsung 26F Protected
...the above batteries plus any unprotected have fit so far without issues.
That is a good idea & strategy Mitko :), to pick the CW emitter for dedoming salvaging, when we plan to upgrade the LED anyway, i will keep that in mind 
Hi and welcome
I was looking for some advice and this thread forced me to register on this forum 
Can I still sign for one NW and one CW?
What’s the expected date and how payment will look - probably wire transfer to you bugsy36?
the buying iter won’t differ from how you buy stuff from Banggod, Gearbest, fasttech…etc…
You wil just be given a coupon or similar to buy the light when available at the seller shop
Thanks TheBo, that’s good news so I can pay directly in $ by credit card and avoid additional fees.
so my only hope now is I can still sigh in