They're in order from shortest to tallest, left to right, in the second picture. The S3 is discontinued and feels bulkier than the S4 except for the cigar ring. If I find that I don't like the cigar ring then it's going on the lathe and the ring will be scrap aluminum. Also, I have a pair of the newer S18 18650 extenders and the threads on them are a bit out of spec on the large side and the S3 won't screw on to either extender. It just barely starts then gets very tight very quickly, which is why I ended up buying the S4. The S5 feels larger in my hands than it really is, probably because the round ring on the end and the hexagonal cut makes it fill my hands better.
I'm new to this stuff and would like to know where I can purchase replacement covers for my Solarforce tail cap switches. I really like the green and orange ones that Foy has on his but a Google search came up with nothing.
Welcome to BLF, Telman2! These from Lighthound are for Surefire, but they sure look like they'd fit to me.
I have an S4 bought as a spare tailcap a while ago, but found it makes multi-mode dropins change modes each time I click it. Anyone else have this happen? Might just be it came loose or dirty; I haven't tried taking it apart, I just put it on a single-mode light a while back and forgot to ask til now.
Welcome to BLF, Telman2! These from Lighthound are for Surefire, but they sure look like they'd fit to me.
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Thanks for the welcome and the link, after looking them over I thought what the heck. I ordered a couple of them, I guess we'll all know in a couple of days.
It's confirmed, I ordered the tail switch covers BetweenRides thought might work from Lighthound and they are exactly the same size as the original Solarforce covers.
Nice update.
Hello Foy
Hi to all.The S-9 Stainless steel ring does unscrew, at least mine did. I used a bit of penatrating oil and pressed it up against an oak board that had rounded corners on one edge. Locking the ss lobes aginst the board and turning the light by hand using a leather work glove to break it loose…(not breaking it …or my hand). The S-9 is my favorite because it will tailstand and the valley between the lobes is a bit wider than on the S-11 or the S-6. All the better for my fat thumb…or one with a glove.
I had not noticed the grooves on the S-9 untill looking at your pics, which are excellent BTW. They strike me as a good place to add some tritium viles! I have a cryos head from oveready on an L2P with an XML-U2 dropin. I noticed he had a SS crenalated front bezzel with machined slots for tritium filled glass tubes(GITD), which would be glued in with optical cement (UV cured like windshield repair cement). I was thinking of putting the tritium on the front and back on the L2P on my nightstand but didn’t see a good place at the tail switch to put the trit. tubes…till now. The L2p on the nightstand has the stock endcap…no groves. My S-9 endcap is on my L2T which is in my work EDC bag. So the big question becomes how deep do the grooves need to be, and is there enough material there to allow for that? I feel a project comming on.
Which end cap with groves do you think would have the most material bulk for deepening existing grooves?
Thanks for the excellent pics
Boyd
Welcome to the Forum! Post some pics on your mods. We love pics here! 
As you can see, Foy is “da man” to go to for Anything Solarforce.
wordwalker -
The S9 is much thicker than all but maybe the S8, which does not have the removeable bezel. Would love to see some of your work.
Foy
Foy
Thanks for the information. Up to now I’ve been playing with what’s available to lego…this tail cap, that bezel, ect. I don’t have machining capability and that definately limits possibilities. The front bezel ring I saw was already machined and had trit ready grooves. I’ll need to confirm how deep and wide and see if the S-9 can handle it. Then find someone to machine it or see what I can do with a dremmel tool.
Most of the lights I had that were Xfires have been sold to others or given as gifts. I’m liking Solarforce A lot for quality reasons. The longer I mess around with flashlights the pickyer I am becomming. Or is it just zeroing in on what I actually prefer? Either way, when the trit project becomes a reality there will be pics.
wordwalker3
Just purchased my first SolarForce L2P with the standing tail cap forward clicky. The rubber button has the Solarforce Name in the rubber. I have no complaints but may want to change it to a different color, green or orange. But I have read on other websites that many of the replacement rubber buttons don’t fit and need to be modified. Does someone have the various stats on the Solarforce rubber buttons, height , width, height of base, width of base, etc?
Also, this tailcap is the standard tail stand tailcap what is the model number for it? I originally wanted to but the S11 in black, but found I don’t like the claw aspect on either the tailcap or bezel so went for the plain tail stand model. Works fine.
You can replace the rubber boot with most any standard 16mm boot of any color. Depending on which or where you buy the rubber boots, you may have to cut the little nipple off the inside for proper fit. Very easy to do. I have done a few of mine.
As far as your tail cap is concerned, you just have a basic L2P standard tail cap. I don’t believe there is any designation for it. other than a stock L2P.
I thought Foy had come back from his retirement, where is he anyway?
Good job, you have switches listed I didn’t even know existed 