So you’ll be pulling the guts out of the Pianoman and sticking it into a custom housing?
Should also keep the reflector and glass, then, to make sure the final beam is nigh identical in both housings.
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Chinese New Year is what’s up!
Tac lights not my thing but I really enjoy seeing what skilled people can come up with, especially from a “non-flashlight background” i.e no (or, different) preconceived ideas.
Following your project closely, welcome to the forum and good luck!
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Very nice! The K35 seems a bit larger than you’d prefer, but if you end up being ok with the size, the large reflector allows you to get decent intensity even out of not-so-throwy emitters (or running lower levels). The original light has some heatsink ribs that really jut out and mess with ergonomics, but it won’t be a problem for you since you’re machining your own host.
As a sidenote, this light looks a lot like the Convoy S16; I don’t know for sure but won’t be surprised if there is some cross-compatibility between parts of the two lights.
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When it gets here I will know for sure if it is too much for my liking.
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Thank you! Glad to be here, folks here are awesome. I’ve bounced around a lot of forums. Talking to people here they have seemed to be the nicest and most helpful I’ve come across.
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Genuine question for the tactical fraternity: The idea of using a really bright light to temporarily blind someone comes up a lot, how do you with dark-adapted eyes avoid being blinded yourself by the same light? Especially if you’re woken up in the night.
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My tactical experience is limited to taking tactical walks with my tactical dog, but I do remember having read somewhere that chopper pilots close one eye when using their searchlight. If needed you can always open the other eye as well.
There is certainly an amount of risk involved. You’d hope that someone dumb enough to not ask permission to come into your house would also not have an insanely bright light. I think additionally without the light being shined directly at you, that would help mitigate some of the effects of the bright light.
Flashlight doesn’t come with a battery. Are either one of these batteries going to work for me? Does anyone have other recommendations?
TIA
Your flashlight outputs 30-35 watts, so battery drainage could exceed 10 amps.
50E is likely to work OK, but I would pick another battery.
Molicel P42A or P45B is great, as well as Samsung 50S.
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i have 21700 to 26650 silicone o-ring for 21700 battery
Could you, please, add it to your site ?
Currently in “O-ring” section I can see only 18650 to 26650 variant.
@Simon_Mao I think you misunderstood my sentences; i mean i hope in the future you will add line up, head/reflector size of S11, with a 21700 battery tube. 
And a Happy Chinese new year to you, may this year brings prosperity to you and family 
Thank you , how about S16? Or do you need a new 21700 flashlight with brass pill inside?
21700 battery is 5mm longer than 26650 battery , 21700 can be used in S11 ,but it can not be used in M26C , When I add a link, I need to consider filling in this note.
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Is S11 head the same with S16?; the diameter? or the reflector size?
If S11 head and S16 head is similar then its me missing the train…
This is just an idea pops out when i see the design of your T6
Thank you for responding
It’s not exactly the same. There is a slight difference in size.
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Alright everyone here for a little update.
Finally got my K35 in the mail. I have to say, as a machinist, this flashlight looks tremendous. Whoever is making the body of these flashlights, they really look great. It’s a shame ill be taking this one apart.
I don’t have all the measuring equipment at my house to take proper measurements of this body. On Monday, I will be back at the shop and I will take more measurements then. I will provide some rough and critical dimensions and I will be sure to include pictures and the whole gamut. @QReciprocity42 was right, the reflector is just a little big but I think it’s still going to look awesome when its all finished.
I recently traded off a PC I built for a Prusa MK3S and I will be printing my design before I make it out of aluminum. I want to make sure the aesthetic is what I want before I get too carried away. I still need to get a 21700 battery and charger so no working flash light yet but small progress in still progress.
I have another question maybe someone can answer. Why are the retaining rings for the driver and switch brass? Is it because of how soft the material is? Is it because of thermal properties? Is it because of it’s electrical properties?
I have access to a plastic material called PEEK. We use it frequently on satellite parts because of it’s thermal stability and because it’s a tremendous electrical insulator. I was planning to use it for retaining rings in the new assembly because it will also give the working end of the light a small amount of shock resistance as well. Whats everyones thoughts?
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I’d never really considered Pioneman flashlights before but after this I might have to check them out.
Not familiar with this specific light, but on some lights, the end body tube screws down onto the tailcap retaining ring. Depending on the power and driver type, it’s good to get a good thermal path between the driver and the host.
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