Join the club! Oh wait
We need an update OP!
Literally!
That’s exactly what I’ve done 
. Anxiously waiting for news now.
Mother of God, a manufacturer of flashlights offers to make a model to our liking? with the characteristics that have some flashlights together into one? and at that price? 
I want dozens!
Anodized Square threads. Tired of seeing awesome lights with gritty and gnarled threads.
+1
subbed for the taking my money post that we want.
Just an fyi. I see in the OP requesting a deep reflector and more flood. Deep reflectors will always reduce the flood and add nothing to throw, maybe 1-2% - nothing compared to adding a little to reflector I.D.. Many think it will improve throw - it does make the center beam appear tighter, but it's no brighter - tests and beam shots prove this. All the new lights, in my opinion, are going in the wrong direction with elongated reflectors. For most situations, I'd rather have a wider area coverage than not.
What is the reflector dimensions? Is this based on a known Warsun model with known measurements?
For strobe - I prefer the hold method, about 1 sec isn't too bad. Totally agree with not liking double clicking for strobe.
Oh - just read bout the 3A limit. Poor choice, mis-informed, non-tech ... Many high end stock lights go over 3A, some a lot over 3A on a XM-L2 -- they know the deal. 4A is pretty common now in the high performance lights from ThruNite, Fenix, MaxToch, few others... Doing it right on direct path copper takes care of any LED issues - the rest is in the driver design to run at high amps. He's saving time/money there most likely.
Everything Tom E just said.
I'm liking the way this is headed. Ideally I'd love to see a "full mod" light available to the mass's, at the savings from the dealers. Unfortunately the 3A restriction means it can't happen on this one, but, it's still an awesome light.
If you can't buy it fully modded, then I'd love to see the least amt of cost/work to do on a light to get to the "full mod" level. If it means only replacing the driver, that would be great! As I saw with the MaxToch M12, they did what I requested in adding an AR lens and a nice copper MCPCB, but, details! The pill top is too thin, top surface not flat, so less than perfect contact. They probably used a good thermal grease to make up for it, but it's not enough. Also, the LED wires were 24 AWG, more fins in the critical area (adjacent to the pill top) would be desirable, tail spring has to be copper wired to get more power, not all threads were well lubed, not easy to get to the tail spring and switch, etc... Devil is in the details...
All of this. Has to have a minimum of 4A to NW emitter on copper. The UI has be good with instant access to both Moon and High. Quick click to high from off and a long press to moon from off.
If post #17 sticks with Warsun taking the 3A max mind set, it's a deal breaker for some, or at least a lot less desirable. Also sounds like a tint option of 1A and 3C/4C would be great.
The amps now is a big part of what makes a light custom.
Any update? :heart_eyes:
Has anyone done lumens/lux testing on the Warsun range yet.
They sound like good lights but from what I’ve seen from pics of their range most have smaller heads. What actual lux testing results are available?
Are they seriously powerful performers stock i.e. 90 –120kcd standard out of the box?
I only have one light I can test lux for. The et26. None of the newer ones. I'm not going to try guesstimating that into lumens until I have some sort of integrating sphere.
I just got in a X60, and have another Warsun I'm working on. I worked on a ET26 a while back and think I have stock #'s on it - I'll check. There is no way at all these stock lights would perform like that in throw (90-120 kcd), not even close, probably not even half of that - I'll check though.
Update:
These Warsun lights I believe all have the same head diameter, same reflector. The X60 and A10 I have are 48mm head diameter, reflector is 41.7mm wide, 41.1 mm deep. The I.D. is 39.8 mm, and a Convoy C8's reflector is 38.15 I.D. These are all approx. but close, measured with a digital caliper. So, slightly wider than a C8.
Stock X60: 2.53A measured at the tail on high, throw: 27.5 kcd. This is about expected for this amps, XM-L2 on aluminum star, about a C8 size reflector, slightly bigger.
The X60 measurements I made: 170mm x 48mm x 34mm. Posted here: 170x49x35.
In the OP blfdemigod mentions a hybrid reflector, better throw. I've never heard of hybrid's having better throw for an XM-L2? Best throw, best throwers always have an SMO?
Also - PWM less modes is a hardware re-design, not just firmware. This BLFX is all a wish list dream for this price - reality will, or has already set in... SS trim for example is rarely in budget lights (under $20-$25) for a reason - because of cost. Look at the Eagle Eye brand - they add SS and they go from $20 to $30+.
I this still a thing or are we…
Now I did not read the whole thread, but here’s few things that come in to my mind:
-Relatively fast random strobe with easy access. Perfect implementation of this might require some research, but even a good attempt at it would be interesting to see in a budget light. It does not need to be true random, just create a nice “random” pattern that is repeated. It should have a direct access with some combination of clicks.
A real turbo mode something that really pushes the light to the limits, and then automatically steps down to a sustainable level after some time. Preferably a direct access to this function.
-Integrated charger with micro USB port, and status led (that can be used to show battery voltage when not charging). IF these can be implemented with good quality and without too big space requirements.
-AR lens
-I like the idea of forward switch in the end and side switch for modes. Preferably the side switch would also have on/off function, but it needs to be instant on/off with one click. I HATE the “press 2 seconds for on/off”-implementations.
-Since there are forward switch at the end, this light NEEDS to have mode memory, so that the forward switch turns on the last used mode every time. No mode switches should be possible through the tail switch, no matter how furiously you click it on/off.
-Personally I would prefer sand blasted/matte finish on the stainless steel. And does the tail really need the stainless part?
-Extension tube is a nice extra feature