Conductive Paint..?

I’ve been hunting high and low to find what I think is conductive paint to use in place of solder on the stars to retainer ring on the Qlite Rev.A 7135*8 drivers…
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance…

Rear window defogger repair paint? Silver conducting paint pen?

Ah ha, thanks so much, I’ll be off to the parts house tomorrow, just fantastic Thank You Jhalb…!!

No problem! Glad I could help.

I know what he really wants to do…. :wink:

He’s seen this.

Ha! I love it!

I’ve tried conductive paint and conductive epoxy.

The stuff seems to have MUCH higher resistance than actual solder. It’s good for low-current connections like connecting the extra wire for an e-switch. However, I got very poor results when I tried to use it to connect anything where main current flows through it (such as driver to pill).

The high resistance results in very poor performance. Many drivers will start ramping down almost instantly due to the high resistance.

Ah long ago I was given a business for environmental friendly PCs that were build into a wooden case made by a carpenter.
We used black graphite based paint for the inside to shield radiation and get a grounding
Expensive stuff and the case was made of two halves sliding into each other for neat looks without screws. The 45 degree angles that were sliding over each other got a metal looking finish after a few times taking it apart and putting it back.
Jan, the carpenter, did the painting but it was messy stuff.

There are several vendors on eBay that sell silver conductive paste/paint pre-packaged in syringes. There is also “Wire Glue” that comes in a tiny jar, but you have to find a suitable applicator (toothpick, etc.). Either works great on Qlites for changing “star” modes, but I prefer the syringes for ease of application. As mentioned above, I wouldn’t use it for any critical connections. :beer:

VFMaddict that is hilarious, how did you know :laughing: ,
That’s clever though and that is what I am looking for more or less, actually looks to have very good conductivity actually which is sort of surprising with such a quick and thin application to the emitter, hum.
I got a XinTD from I.O. Hank and I had checked the wrong modes when I ordered but when I went to change it to #4 star I saw that all they used was a paint and I had never seen that before.
For the most part I could nearly scrap it off with my finger nail, so instead of just emailing them and asking what they used I decided to bug all of you with this,
Thanks freefly I will be looking today on Ebay and most definitely the syringe would be ideal, Thanks Everyone, I appreciate all the help

Well in case someone comes along and wonders about the question I asked here, I finally have the precise answer because I emailed Hank at I.O. and asked him what he uses and it is,
CircuitWorks Conductive Pen Part No. itw chemtronics cw2200stp and so you don’t get sticker shock I’ll tell you up front it’s not cheap, but it’s very good stuff and surprisingly conductive.
Also discovered reading through MSDS data, conductive epoxies which I didn’t know about either and got to thing about how hard a time of it I have building drivers and wondering about putting dabs of this epoxy at the proper intervals just to hold my parts in place then do my soldering, maybe over thinking, but I’m getting old and shaky Jake for sure and it’s frustrating at best.
Anyhow, just in case someone comes along I thought I’d post this info for you…
Thank you for all you help in the beginning here…!

I use conductive epoxy for connecting e-switch wires to pills and body tubes. Works great for low-current applications like that.

The stuff wasn’t cheap though. Got mine at Fry’s several years ago and it cost something like $30 for two tiny syringes the same size as what arctic alumina comes in.

I also have a couple circuit writer pens laying around somewhere. I don’t use them much though (one has conductive ink, the other has clear insulating ink).

[quote=Firelight2]
I use conductive epoxy for connecting e-switch wires to pills and body tubes. Works great for low-current applications like that.

The stuff wasn’t cheap though. Got mine at Fry’s several years ago and it cost something like $30 for two tiny syringes the same size as what arctic alumina comes in.

Hi, yes there seems to be a lot of different alternatives to just soldering, of course soldering will always be the best way conductivity wise but like my mention about small things like positioning of parts I think maybe even one of these paint pens which do come in different applicator tips for volume flow I guess could be used as something like a dap of paint and then set my part in place let dry and then solder, if that makes any sense, I have nerve damage in my fingers and shaky to boot but darn determined to getter done, somehow, oh ya and I am really lazy ha ha… Only big draw back like you mentioned is, $$$$$$$$$$$… Way to expensive I think to be very practical. Thanks… :laughing:
Edit: I think that Chemtronic pen I mentioned above was like $45 for one pen and the two part epoxy where about similar and not very much product really something like .03oz, not much anyhow for the price and it does expire and dry up in about a 2 yr shelf life, that’s what kept me from buying from Ebay cheaper, no way to tell how old the stuff your buying is so would need to buy from a Co. that is big and for real or you might get dried up junk.?