I bought this from a local reseller, herein.
It came with no instructions on how to program it.
He is done with the sale once the money has changed hands.
Where can I find the manual?
Now we offer another driver version, which has a simple 4 modes for switching, which is very suitable for ordinary users.
modes : 0.1–3–30–100 max current output is 4800mA
Its biggest advantage is that no frequency can be seen in any mode, and there is temperature management.
It can control the flashlight temperature not to exceed 55 degrees Celsius,
If the flashlight temperature is below 55 degrees Celsius, it will output full current. If it is above 55 degrees Celsius, it will constantly adjust the current so that the flashlight will not overheat.
2.Driver instructions:(12groups)
It has the same temperature protection function as the 4modes version.Max current output is 4800mA.
It has 12groups ,following is the driver operation instructions.
1.click the switch to turn the flashlight on/off,tap the switch to select mode
2.if flashlight is turned on,tap the switch 20 times quickly to enter into config mode.(On a visual interface,as long as you click on an option, it means that the option is selected. The flashlight has no visual interface. It flashes to represent an option, and “tap the switch in the flashing process” means to select the option.)
Option 1 (normal-flash 1 time + buzz-flash): tap the switch to enter into sub-option to select the mode group,If the user has no operation, the config mode will enter option 2.
1.1 (normal-flash 1 time) : tap the switch to select mode group 1 (0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%, strobe, biking, battery-check
1.2 (normal-flash 2 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 2 (0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100%)
1.3 (normal-flash 3 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 3 (100, 35, 10, 1, 0.1%)
1.4 (normal-flash 4 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 4 (1, 20, 100%, strobe, biking, battery-check, SOS)
1.5 (normal-flash 5 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 5 (1, 20, 100%)
1.6 (normal-flash 6 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 6 (100, 20, 1%)
1.7 (normal-flash 7 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 7 (0.1, 1, 10, 50, strobe, biking, battery-check, SOS)
1.8 (normal-flash 8 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 8(0.1, 1, 10, 50)
1.9 (normal-flash 9 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 9 (50, 10, 1, 0.1)
1.10 (normal-flash 10 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 10 (1, 10, 35, 100)
1.11 (normal-flash 11 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 11 (100, 20, strobe)
1.12 (normal-flash 12 times) : tap the switch to select mode group 12(100% only)
Option 2 (normal-flash 2 times + buzz-flash): tap the switch to active the mode memory or inactive it,If the user has no operation,flashlight will enter into the last mode.
I wish he had told me about the 4 modes. At this point, I am not into TAP dancing for my flashlights.
THANK YOU for the help, I guess this one is a loss especially with the lousy beam profile.
Convoy puts 4/12 mode drivers in most of their lights if I’m not mistaken. 12M can be programmed to be just Off/100% if you like to keep it simple, but 4M looks as fixed one.
Convoy doesn’t seem to be including any instructions . I guess they expect you to use the internet as a lot of products are doing. I like to print them out and put them into the box for future use.
What’s up with the beam? Maybe someone here can suggest a fix.
The Osram LEDs are 9/10 off center on almost every single brand that uses a reflector, this can’t be helped unless you purchase a model that’s specifically designed to use that specific LED. Convoy use their hosts for many many different setups, if you want everything done right then you need to spend more money. Convoy is more for those who want customizable options or can build/mod components themselves.
Even if the LED is perfectly centered the beam has oval looking rings around the LED, this is completely normal. These LED’s aren’t for shining on a wall, they’re for long range. I see this complaint far too often thinking it’s faulty when it’s normal.
Your seller may have only the 12 group version. Very rarely will a local seller stock both versions. The 12 group versions is far more superior to just 4 levels you can’t alter.
Simon’s got centering rings for his osrams that fit most of his reflectors. Strange that this would be the case.
Of course, the XHP70.2 in my Zebralight SC700d is slightly off-center. But there’s no centering ring, and the led to reflector size ratio means you can’t tell in the beam.
I sell most variants of the Osram white flats and it’s very difficult to get it centered with the gaskets. If the gasket was square cut and fit perfectly around it, it would be great but the hole is slightly too big. With an LED so small it can pull off the mcpcb with little force so there’s no easy solution.
It was brought up in another thread that the screws push the mcpcb off center, I have to use a tool to try hold it while I tighten the screws. Sometimes I’ve found that even if it looks centered perfectly, when I tighten with the reflector it’s off to the side, then have to push it way off center to get it centered in the reflector. Very annoying on some of the C8+ hosts.
I’d recommend getting pan head screws to replace the flat heads. I had to in my M2 because the factory flat heads forced the emitter of center. What then happened as an assembly is the emitter was ‘centered’ in the hole, but the reflected wasn’t sitting flat (off axis). This caused asymmetric artifacts. Pan heads allowed me to center it AND fully clamp it down.
Thank you for your input. Can you provide a link to the screws so I get the correct ones? This would be a great solution, I entirely forgot where I saw the comment and what the screws were
The Convoy’s drivers for SST40 (both 4 modes and 12 groups) don’t use PWM. That means better regulation and efficiency at modes below 100% than an equivalent 7135-based driver. That also avoids black lines on cameras.
On Lumeniac’s updated review the C8G regulation IMHO doesn’t look significantly better or worse than the M21A with SST40 or the equivalent C8. Nobody posted pictures of the updated driver, so we aren’t sure, but efficiency looks worse than the SP35 buck driver. He compares it against an 8*7135 C8 with XP-L HI but the XP-L HI has higher forward voltage than the SST40 so it’s natural that regulation with a linear (or buck) driver will be worse.
I don’t know why we are talking about the SST40 in this thread, but the Osram white flats have similar foward voltage to the SST40.
I sanded down the centering ring in my Osram C8 to focus it better. It has the petals around the hotspot, but they are mostly even, instead of on one side of the hotspot like it was out of the box.
If you want the throw of the Osram emitter with a perfect beam you need one of the lights with that fancy TIR optic that Acebeam uses on the E10, and L17.