By many people.
Cigarette Ashes, Cigarette Butts, we’ve got them by the N*ts, Pull Team Pull!
Late 80’s? I learned to change diapers…
Bucket. What do I say but again an outstanding effort. You had me cringing looking at the picture machining the fins down with not a lot of metal in the jaws. I’m looking forward to the many new builds you will be doing in the future.
Yeah. Strictly light cuts in that situation.
…do you guys with lathe’s like a high polish? I don’t see how you can resist putting some 400 grit, 600, 1000, 2000, 6000 on the part while it’s spinning at the lowest rpm, making it mirror finished in all aspects. Once taken off the lathe, there’s not a better way to polish it. A strip of cotton with some Mother’s Billet Polish and it would look plated! I know I’d be doing it, to hell with what’s safe!
Safe? I use a drill and dremel with my fingers an 1/8” or less from the cutting tool. Sure, it could bind and jump and get me. I take that risk virtually every time I use my dremel. Hand holding a ring while cutting down in the inner surface, fingers directly under the surface being cut with the carbide bit spinning up 2 or 3 mm from my flesh. Oh well, it’s the only way I can get it done. I’ve done similar work on a 10” bladed table saw as well, with Oak acorns falling on the metal roof overhead. Nerve wracking, but you gotta stay steady! lol I cut a 3/4x3/4 piece of G10, made it a modified triangle to hold 3 rows of AA cells to fit 3 deep in my MagLight. Yeah, a 9 cell holder made of G10. Tricky, that one was. Did it all on the table saw. Now it’s sitting on the shelf above my head unused, pulled it and put a single 32650 in. Oh well.
Nice piece of workmanship. If you make a mold of that you could reproduce it in epoxy. I cast one in wax for 5S 2P(the series was in a circle and end to end parallel) that had a similar curve but in a pentagram and embedded a barrel connector and wiring in the epoxy. It charges with a 6V wall wart and drives 3p xre’s. One of my early nimh efforts before I converted to liion. Still in use after 3(maybe 4?) years. Don’t toss that bit, someone with less patience and skill might benefit from yours.
I made that over 2 years ago, still have the rest of that piece as well another 6” long or so and unfinished.
I watch Tom as well. That is hauling ass for threading (At least for me)... If I were doing a longer threaded section, I would just keep the lathe turning and engage the half nut on the dial, but with short threads like these I use what I call Metric Style where the half nut stays engaged and the lathe is reversed.
Whatever happened to all the rules? Long sleeves, loose clothing (shirt untucked) power lines across the floor and knee high or higher in the way in case of emergency. Lot’s of violations in that little vid right there. I’mafraidI’mahafftowriteyouup!
All packed up. Shipping tomorrow. Gonna try USPS one more time.
Seems like there’s a huge cold front every time you point at Texas, what’s up with that? lol
Gonna have to figure out which emitter and how hard to drive it……
This whole winter has been a huge cold front. Al Gore should stick to inventing the internet...
Whatever emitter you pick, drive it like you stole it. What can the switches take in these lights?
I’ll definitely be changing out the switch, planning on driving it hard enough that even the aftermarket switches will tremble.
Oh Toooofty! Oh Maaaaaaatt! (Matt’s new one coming up pretty soon can take 30A
) The Tofty in my M8 is rated at 10A+, can easily take more, built like a tank. Very nice reverse clicky, it’s making me change my mind on which I prefer, have always liked forward clickies.
Cold front there, drought here, no such thing as normal.
I’d really love to see what you’d come up with if you had a lathe Scott, I bet we’d all be scrambling (like we aren’t already) to get hands on your work!
Do you have a link to the project, or any more info? I am following tofty’s 10A switch project, but haven’t heard of a 30A switch project.
Well, I know he’s about to assemble a semi-finalized prototype run with about 3 different sizes for the vast majority of lights out there. He’s using a coin cell powered electronic switch similar to a fettie and it’ll be both forward and reverse operable. Soft click, one version an exact size replica of a McClicky with other versions targeted at the oddball Surefire and another. I’ll see what more detailed info I can dig up or get him to start a thread on it here.
Oh yea, I have stumbled on that thread, and am familiar with that. An electronic switch is a pretty genius idea for a flashlight. It solves all the problems of a high current mechanical switch, and reliability. Just turn a high amp fet on and off. Pretty genius!
Out for delivery!