What differences are there between Convoy M1 & M2 (they look the same)? What differences in M21a & C8+? Why is it Convoy M1, M2, M3 (But M3 looks totally different)? What is the reason for the huge jump in size from M21a, M21b, M21C??
I’m guessing I need the M1 or M2, the M21a is tempting me, but I’m not sure if it will carry ok in a larger pocket or not. The M21C looks too big, & I have no idea what the m21b is sized.
Luckily, I’ve found some photos from BLF members that had a few lined up near each other. Want to thank everyone for that.
The naming conventions are all over the place. It’s how it is.
The M1 and M2 are similar, the M2 has a stainless bezel and possibly isn’t as water resistant as the M1. The M21A is the same sized head as the C8+ but a larger battery tube to fit a 21700 cell instead of an 18650. The M21B is the M1 with a bigger battery tube for a 21700 as well.
The M1 is a great size and has some throw.
The C8+/M21A have a larger head but a ton of throw. They aren’t really everyday carry sized lights though.
Are you looking for a general purpose beam or a thrower?
I am looking for a thrower for search & routefinding. Need to see detail at 50-150m without spill blinding me. Andúril or another type of UI like Biscotti or Narsil. Needs to be full Ipx8 with no charging port since that may get ground open in a pocket. The flashlight will get a real test. Last one was a Maglite LED & started having issues because of the heavy use. Must carry it in a jeans pocket or clipped off to a belt loop & still be able to move well in difficult terrain.
If you want a thrower with not much spill you probably want a light with an Osram emitter. A C8 with an Osram has a ton of throw but it’s not very pocketable, however the M1 with the same emitter is much smaller and still throws very well.
I know you asked about Convoy, but Acebeam makes a few lights you should consider as well. The E10 and L17 use the Osram emitter and a special optic that makes a ton of throw with very little spill.
I heard the 8A driver has a timed stepdown from the highest mode rather than real temperature based regulation like the 6A driver. If that’s true I’d get the 6. 6A is still a lot of power in a light that size. The other option is the UI. Either 4 modes with memory or the 12 group programmable driver so you can change stuff so set it up how you want.
6A CSLPM1 is the best value by far. I tested the boost HX (C+U+LPM1) and it peaks output at 7.75A, same as the 3030 version. The thing is, at 6.75A, you still get 98.9% of the output. Going down to 6A delivers about 93% of max with A LOT less heat and power. I don’t know what the real output current of these drivers are, but the sweet spot is 6-6.25A for these 2mm² osrams.
If you plan to use the light for long runtimes at low-med output, the 8A driver is theoretically more efficient (buck vs linear).
On the 8A driver, the 50% & less modes should be higher output as opposed to the 6A driver, correct? Definitely want to program the light. Wish it was Andúril.
Thank you for that suggestion, but…
The KR1 isn’t likely to survive my use @Ipx7. Otherwise I’d buy one.
Astrolux Ft03 Mini is a similar situation because of the USB port.
Manker MC13 might be ok, but 18650 battery tube is out of stock unless I buy the special edition 90.2.
Lumintop GT Mini is 2nd choice because I don’t like the larger diameter head for balance in the form factor.
I’ll say that my C8+ with XPL-HI is quite the thrower. Overall brightness is much less than many of my newer lights but it really punches out there. I built one with the LH351D and find it a nice, throwy but well balanced beam. I haven’t tested the IPX8 rating on either, but they are quite well built. As long as you don’t break the glass they should do fine (and if you are THAT worried, acrylic lenses are available in that size).
