okay, thanks, I looked up what film it is.
How can I tell which lens is compatible?
edit: these types? https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/5pc9ct/convoy_s2_tir_lens_1015254560strip
Not thoseâŚthose are the usual 20mm for the S2+ and such. He started selling a smaller 17mm for the H1 with a square mount for 5050 emitters (XML, SST40, etc). Lots of options now. If you want to try some different angles he may be willing to mix and match the 5pc order if you send him a message (sometimes he does, sometimes he doesnât).
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803132006913.html
Thereâs probably some at the popular Yajiamei Optics Store, tooâŚthey sell them with and without the holders so be sure to look at the dimensions (like a lot of 17mm listings are actually 15mm optics). Itâs a good shop but the shipping these days makes it less of a bargain. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100564393
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If you have the OP lens, DC fix works wonders on the convoy headlamps. Especially the H3. Itâs so ring-y. The h3 feels kinda dumb, heavy 21700 for only 1 emitter, but then you put a little dime sized thing of DC fix on it and boom, itâs instantly amazing. And now that extra 3amps and the runtime from the 21700 makes sense, shine through the DC fix. Now you donât have to worry about the DC fix soaking up too much output and the light being too dim, DC fix doesnât get in the way of anything. And any traces of rings are completely gone
I bought the H2 by accident, instead of the H1⌠and it has a clear leans instead of TIR. And Convoy doesnât want to sell me a mixed set of TIR lenses.
âProfessional Outdoor Lightingsâ on Aliexpress was willing to send me 1x45 degree and 1x60 degree TIR lenses. I just received them and Iâm trying to figure out how to mount them.
The TIR lens doesnât fit when I slide the TIR lens into the original reflecting cone, the stack is too tall. If I remove the reflecting cone, the TIR lens isnât mounted tightly. I tried removing the white ring under the cone, and the stackup is slightly too tall thread in the front piece.
Edit: I removed the front glass piece and its rubber ring, now it fits, I guess.
Any pointers?
I learned this week that the ones that come stock with a TIR have a little copper shelf behind the board that lifts the emitter up a little closer that the ones with a reflector donât have. So thatd do it. I guess youâd take the board out, put that shelf behind it (itâs like the size of a dime but thinner, and solid copper) and thermal paste them back together. But thereâs also variations between reflectors. Also the TIR doesnt have a gasket.
I see, interesting. does anyone have the dimensions of that copper shelf?
It might be in the the convoy tactical ring thread in Simonâs reply to me. Also thereâs a picture that I took in that thread too. Not a great one
I took it apart today and remembered this. Better late than never. I donât have calipers but its this big
Fits right in that little spot of aluminum. Iâm calling it 17mm x 1.5mm assuming convoy boards are sized right. Picture next to a 20mm x 1.6mm convoy board and a Canadian dime. Little bigger than a 16mm x 1mm board, little thicker. Not quite as thick as a 1.6mm board. So thatâs my guess. Maths!
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thatâs great, those dimensions I can work with. Iâll try to mill my own spacer. thanks!
Bought 1 for modding, since H04 double priced and D10 quality degradeted with years. H1 host similar to Skilhunts H04, good heat dissipation, easy to repair or mod,⌠but heavier, âthanksâ to battery fat tube witch weights 37gr. alone. Standard TIR optic not available too. Driver linear, constant current - It is fine, but UI ⌠
Horrible linear dimming and stepped mode spacing, too slow mode switching, turbo with memory in main line, no reverse option, not accessible moon level from main line and it is almost same brightness as low mode, conservative LVP behavior - steps down from any level to low (5mA) at 3V and goes off at 2,8V. Also found few non critical bugs related to issues mentioned above. When Voltage < 3V, âmoonâ mode after few sec. switches to low mode. Another bug : Off > turbo > off > turbo > double click⌠and nothing happens, because stays at the same memorized turbo ;))
Button PCB have 2 leds. 1 red , 1 green. Red is connected, green not at all.
So, before replacing stock driver with my buck driver i had to remove green and add another red in parallel.
