Very correct, it’s a WOW factor, then a working flashlight after the that. Of course in 20 seconds you can see a lot.
Oh, it’s not my video, I just goggled for one and found that.
People have different preferences:
off = no need for a lit sideswitch when the light’s off, or prefer it to be off for “tactical” reasons (sneaking around and not having a green light revealing your position).
dim (my preference) = just to see it at night without being way way too bright when the room is dark.
bright = for people who want to see the switch even when it’s not that dark. My Q8 is like that, and I can only set the switch glow on/off, not dim, so I usually leave it on but the light locked out via unscrewing.
beacon = “motion” of the light to draw attention to it. I’d use that, say, if staying in a motel and not familiar with the placement.
As for “beacon”, it could be like my Nitecore MH20 which just has a dim “blip” every 1-2 seconds (or off, the way I usually keep it), or like standard Andouille which has a crazy multi-level flickering. Some lights have “breathing” switches, which I find creepy and at this point wouldn’t even buy the light if I couldn’t turn that off.
For Andy lights, the crazy flickering is good to draw big attention to the light, so I set it so that the switch is simply dim when off, and has the crazy flickering when it’s off but locked-out.
My Cometa has such a bright lit tailswitch that I call it my Big Blue Lighthouse. Too bright.
So at least having options (off/dim/bright/blink) lets people have the choice, and so they won’t be annoyed with the light or just not buy it at all if it does the “wrong” thing.
To me, and honestly the way it should be, is that “high” should be the maximum sustainable brightness, for long times, and “turbo” could be pushing the brightness to whatever the light can bear but only for a short short time before either cooking itself destructively or stepping down to prevent that.
Too many people call the maximum setting “turbo” when it’s just the brightest setting, even for an AA light. :confounded:
Noooo! 
BLF (myself included) hates these etchings. How about a sticker instead?
If it's working it's not burned.
I'm messing all my emitters and most of them look like crap but alcohol and toluen helps a lot to clean that crap.
my sft40 has no marks, even after extensive use.
You could ofcourse design your own, instead of selling COTS items.
If Simon has purposely designed it to operate like this then it’s not a problem, but there was no mention of it. If I had sold it without knowing I could have been in trouble if the user suffered a burn.
I expected it to have a temp limit and it operate like you’d expect it to when the description says “thermal protection”
Just being clear of its operation would be helpful
XHP70.2 is inferior in light beam quality (even the 90 CRI class). GT-FC40 seems to be much better.
Also, I hope you will also keep an eye open for the upcoming 3rd generation XHP. It looks like that we can expect a better beam, just by looking at how those emitters look like. So you might not even need to restock any of the XHP70.2 and XHP50.2 emitters.
This upcoming 3×21700 flashlight would be also a nice candidate to host the newest upcoming HI offering, as there will be not only XHP35.3 HI, but XHP50.3 HI as well - and that would be an instant best seller for me, assuming 90 CRI variants will be available through your Cree agent.
But as a cheaper alternative, somewhere I also saw, that Getian offers both bigger and smaller emitters than GT-FC40 (FC numbers ending with 15, 20, 30, 60 respectively), those could be also interesting.
If the brightness is obviously low or the center of the spot is dark, it means that the LED is faulty.
makes me wonder if it came in like that? Or did that happen after you use it? I only wonder because mine is OK, but I have five bare LEDs coming in and hope it will not be a issue.Bear LEDs are really not worth returning if they're not good.
Simon, are you able to post a beam shot comparison of L7 and 4x18A SBT90.2?
Oh no! :) Well...make it fun then, like a cat or maybe a lobster over a cooking pot. Haha.
I know it would increase costs and time but have you ever considered a printed sheet of instructions/safety with your lights? Most lights come with them...usually just specifications and how to insert a battery. As you grow, that could be helpful to many users but maybe with the higher power lights that can get very hot it would be a good idea to include safety warnings and recommendations on paper.
I'm glad you're making more powerful lights these days, too...!
Simon - yeah, the center of the spot is dark.
Simon & Artiet59 - I’m not sure if that’s a faulty LED, shipping failure, nor even my fault driving it at 8A(?).
My other Sft40 is perfecly fine till now with 17mm 4 modes driver, even after a reflow onto 16mm mcpcb.
Bought them from Simon’s cross-store(?) - Shopee.
Speaking of 'dark spots on the LED'... I also got one on a Convoy C8+ with CULPM1 using the "ramp driver".
I remember when I first got the flashlight, inserted a battery and first turned it on, I remember seeing some smoke on the LED, but it disappeared.
(unfortunately I wasn't able to check the LED carefully prior to turning it on the first time, so it may or may not have that dark spot originally)
When I checked the LED, there is a dark spot and the beam hotspot will also have a noticeable dark spot just slightly off-center of the beam hotspot.
(my camera has difficulty capturing the "dark spot" in the beam, so I manually adjusted the shutter speed for the camera to be able to show the dark spot..
(but the dark spot is visible to naked eyes, especially when shining on a white wall)
I suppose the "ramp driver" is not so kind to the CULPM1 LED...
If you have a very dense q tip and some isopropyl you can try to clean it off and make sure no fibers are left behind. Plus add some dust to reflector for good measure 
Ramping driver is capped at 8A, haven’t been able to exceed it.
Sounds more like flux on the led that caused it, not too much current
What is the reflector size of the L21B?
I quite like Sofirns ramping speed in the SP36S, maybe Simon could use the same ramping speed?
Have anyone tested the turbo runtime of the L21B SFT40 yet? I would like to know how long before it steps down.
Would be nice to have a 50, 100 mode for Convoy throwers for extended runtime and lower thermals when using the flashlight for a prolonged time.
How would the thermals of the CULPM1.TG vs SFT40 at 8amps compare, which would run the coolest?
Do we know the GT-FC40 chromacity bin?