Too much electronics being crammed into a small area. A light spring on either side works and protects the cell from bashing the base of the board. With that brass stud a much heavier spring is needed. How critical is it, is up to the user. Myself it’s a bit critical.
Some of hose pictures show it with a 26980 extension on it. A cell even harder to get. I hope you can finds some 26800’s. The format as a single cell light fit the hand well without pinkie dangle, great runtime and amperage. Try contacting https://alofthobbies.com I’ve heard they have worked out some of the shipping issues for European customers. Maybe they can help you on your side. The cells go for $5.90 each when they have them in stock.
Agreed! I was toying with Simon’s spacer boards in the MC3 and even with two of them in there it would still bounce and cut out…added a third and dented the top of a QB cell…dangit. I think a thicker wire on the same spring design might work but I’ve got some P60 springs on the way and will give that a shot. Toying with the idea of trimming the pillar and adding a small spring to it but that seems like a great way to get dust-shorts or destroy the driver. I do love the light, though. The design does keep me from buying similar lights in large cell formats, though.
I’ve got an idea but not the skill level to do. An upside down spring on the head side. Would use a small foot print like the brass stud and give a tension push stopping bounce cut out. I imagine that shock on that stud is much greater than with a spring to cushion impacts.
I was thinking similar but just one of the small diameter straight springs, trimmed shorter…those are pretty stiff, though, and I haven’t looked to see if their diameter is small enough. I’m sure it would cost Simon a lot in $ as well as headaches to have his driver mfr attempt to change back to springs, but it sure would be nice on some models. I’m rather amazed at alllll of the new lights and work he’s been putting in over the last year, or two years!
Regarding the models with the brass post and cutting out,how hard of an impact are we talking about? Slap the flashlight in the palm of your hand or a small drop on the ground?
The only one like this that I have is the S11. It doesn’t take much of an impact at all. Smacking it with your hand will probably do it. The weight of the 26650 battery definitely makes it worse. The 21700 based lights probably won’t be as bad.
It still just needs a spring on the driver. Simon said before he can’t find a small enough diameter spring that will handle high currents while still fitting in between all the components on the back side of the driver.
I did get some of the 26mm spacers and using one seems to fix the problem. The 26650s I have are Sofirn branded ones with button tops. I imagine a normal flat top would need two spacers in the S11.
A brass pillar/post/stud is far from being the best option as contact between the battery and the driver, because it lacks damping ability; this is clear.
For this reason, better high conductivity springs are needed. Months ago I made a comment about copper clad steel springs in Bluesword's EX3 High Current Beryllium Copper Silver Plated springs thread. With copper clad steel, I am sure that both high conductivity and optimum damping capacity can be achieved. It is a matter of choosing some proper high tensile strenght steel (high carbon steel: spring steel, piano wire, etc.) and clad it thick with copper. With this a very high IACS is possible, easily well above 50% equivalent copper conductivity. With this in mind, and for example choosing an AWG17 equivalent copper clad spring diameter (≈1.15mm), the conductivity of such spring would be no less than 10A continuous (check here all sizes copper wire ampacities by Prof. Steven Errede). No need for exotic, inferior or potentially toxic alloys.