Thanks for the ideas DB!
I currently have the MTG2 in it, braided springs. With Powerizer 26650’s I saw 10.5 amps on high with my harbor freight dmm………. Zenger moded so8.
Driver stated acting wonky, but with KK cells it acts normal.
DId someone managed the + beam profile when XHP70 used? I tried everythng but it seems that only an OP reflector would help……
So it seems that intl-outdoor.com has MT-G2’s going for $9.60 at the moment, which seems to be a good price, so I grabbed a bunch.
What is the best way to make one of these work with a L2?
I just got my L2 host, and I like it alot. It might be sitting empty for awhile though because I think I’m going to go wait for the XP-L HI 5A I just ordered with FT’s 20% off deal.
JDub, did Simon make the battery tube longer? Dale reported that the block-style tube was too short for a KK26700, but I think my ring-style tube will be just long enough.
Hi
Very impressed with how much better the The MT-G2 L2 is verses the The XP-L HI L2
I know you say ‘same flashlight’ I don’t quite understand this MT-G2 L2 is in a league of its own from your photo.
Does Simon sell the MT-G2 L2? as a search on his site does not show the item.
I want he best ‘bangs for my bucks’ could you possibly provide a link for the MT-G2 L2 from a reliable source, and does it come with a battery included?
Also is there a reason why Simon doesn’t sell it (maybe he does I’m just not searching correctly) as SIMON seems to be ‘the man’ & I would prefer to deal with him.
thanks in advance.
The Mtg2 is putting out a ton more lumens.
The Xpl-Hi is putting out less lumens, but throwing the light to a much further distance. Note the amount of light hitting that red barrel vs the mtg2.
Simon doesn’t sell an mtg2 L2, and they aren’t available anywhere stock. Most companies won’t push a flashlight as far as DB Custom does.
You could wait a month or so until the Convoy L6 (XHP-70 led) is released. It should have similar characteristics as the Mtg2 L2 above, but it will emit quite a bit less lumens in stock form compared to DB’s mtg2 l2.
Thread on the L6:
Thank you for your reply. I live in a very rural area in North Wales and a torch is so important, but I’m only just realising that there is a lot of science involved in this.
May well have another query before buying if thats okay, really want to make the right decision, in no great rush.
I do see the difference between the two torches now, but the MT-G2 L2 seems to be more suitable for me.
Thanks again.
Having finally read through all of this thread, I have one very important question - what ever happened to that sexy naked (un-dyed) version!?
Also, I have a stupid question that I should google (more), but sometimes it’s just easier to ask:
What kind of difference in throw / output is there between the 3A and 1A? Besides the tint I mean.
Theoreticaly 1A will outthrow 3A but thats on paper only, in a real world mode usualy 3A wins in a rainy , snowy, dusty and foggy weather
Mitko, we virtually NEVER have rainy, snowy, foggy weather. It rains sometimes, true. (We’re going into Spring and there’s opening cracks in the ground, dry again after a Fall of great downpours.) And once in a great while there’s some fog early morning. Dusty, yeah, sometimes, as it’s windy all the time for the most part. But those nasty snowy nights y’all endure are very very rare here. So the 1A trumps the 3A for me. I don’t find (HERE) that tint makes much of a difference in throw. The light travels, it’s just a different color when it lands on something 1200 yards away.
So I guess we can only say what we see, and other’s have to weigh that with what they see in their area and common usage. Easy to forget that conditions are so widely variable for us here.
I’ve had people say “Well, that’s YOUR opinion!” But of course it is! I couldn’t very well give you YOUR opinion, now could I? lol We all speak from our own experiences, right and wrong seldom enter the picture, just different.
Since everyone knows I talk to much, nobody will mind this little story…. My dad and his brother were competitive with each other their entire lives. They were partners in business, and felt the same way on the competitive nature with their other brothers. Many years ago, in the 50’s, Jim had a fast car, big powerful new V8 motor in a 4 door sedan. He told my Dad that his new car would whip Dad’s little 2 door straight 6 but BAD! So my Dad told him fine, we’ll see about that. Jim told him “You name the day, pick the place, I’ll mop the floor with ya!” Some months later, sitting at a diner eating lunch, Dad reminded Jim of this challenge. They both had their cars, and conveniently (Dad plans this stuff like a chess match!) there was a likely place nearby. So after lunch, off they went to prove who had the fastest car. Dad led Jim to Suicide Hill. VERY VERY steep paved road a few blocks from the diner. Dad had them back up, about halfway up the hill, and stop side by side. The “Race” was to the top of the hill, backwards! Dad zoomed up to the top, Jim burned rubber and slid down the hill!!! That bigger, heavier car, facing downhill, had no traction! It’s all about perspective. (I, remembering this story, raced my Honda 750 up to the top one day to see how it’d pull the ultra steep grade. Got a surprise! Went about 3’ in the air at the top! Scared me half-to-death!)
Ooh thats not only my opinion m8 
Ever seen 6500-7000k( 1a ) car headlights ?: its like 5000k as a standart, i personaly use 4500k Osram HIDs- The reason i already mentioned
Plus the air is heavely poluted nowadays, especialy in the cities, in an open field there is always a fog( at least in Europe) from 3am to arround 8 am, same goes for the mountains
Plus the returned 1A light( from the snow, the grass , plants and the leaves) will sore your eyes ways more rapidly
Plus cooler tins have more blue light in it( and UV too): and predatory beasts see it- not good for hunting
Wolves and jackals are daltonists but they react most on a UV light
I am sure that most of us here know about blue led light and its effect on the retina reaction
Yeah i like 1A too,but it aint a question of liking
P.S
1A/ or straight blue light is great for fishing though, in spite of its forbidden arround here
Mitko, we have a lot of those car headlights in the blue/blue-white spectrum. They’re supposed to be illegal for road use here, off road only, but we see em on the road all the time.
Now there is a story that made me smile. :bigsmile: It tells me plenty about where your brilliant mind and Tim Allenesque nature come from. I love origin stories. Your dad sounds way cool…
As far as the weather goes that’s a Texas thing buddy. You were proper about the “YOUR opinion” disclaimer so ten gallon hats off to you pard. Here in Michigan I have every weather condition that both you and Mitko described. I’ve experienced the same described by Mitko with CW tint’s in snow and fog. The cooler tints will have throw lessened by the light reflecting/refracting off the mist and/or snow in the air making the light brighter directly in front of you and at least to the eye the throw appears less. I imagine dust would have much less effect in that regard as ice crystals or water droplets are typically much more reflective. The warmer tints seem to better pierce that veil though perhaps it’s only because of there are a few less lumens being bounced back at you or perhaps it has to do with the way our eyes process certain light spectrums. I expect you or others can take me to school on this subject and for the record I welcome the education. I just call it like I see it.
If I recall correctly, the fog lights I used to have on my car were yellow and rectangular, they threw a horizontal beam low to the ground to cut under the fog.
Thanks for your input guys, I guess I’ll order a 3A as the weather here sure is nothing like in the heart of Texas…
J-Dub74: I didn’t get an answer to the more important question, any update on the undressed version? I would love to see how it looks, and possibly order one…
Without any pre-made idea about the tint subject debated here, I did a test with my M2X (cold white) and my M3XS (warmish white) and instantly seen that the M3XS cut the fog more easily !
That’s like the pure white beam of my M2X (and SR52 too) is bouncing on the water in suspension !
But for the laser saber effect, it’s perfect :party:
That’s another interesting question - I was out on the lake fishing last year and it got quite dark before I headed home. I had some simple flashlight with me and it didn’t do any good what so ever - you got the feeling that the dark water just ate it all up and reflected nothing back. Was a fairly interesting ride back, that’s for sure.
I wonder how much of a difference, if any, the tint would make in that situation… or is it lumen in massive amounts one needs? It’s not a very big lake, so I think (hope) the L2 should be able to reach some side of it most of the time anyway. I think I’m going to have to test that when this annoying winter is finally over. So, perhaps I need two L2:s, in the name of science! 
I just put together my L2 tonight. Actually this is my second one, and it’s the first version, single cell. I have two the same. The first one I put a XP-L HI in there with a FET driver, and the second I did tonight is running a dedomed XP-G2 with 12 7135s. Haven’t tested at the tail yet, but should be pulling over 4.5 amps. Also changed out the forward clickie for a reverse style. The dedomed XP-G variant throws like none other, but has a bad case of the rings. I tried moving the reflector up and down but it doesn’t really help. As it is there is no centering ring, it’s just sitting on the noctigon. I used black sharpie on the inside of the led hole but this didn’t seem to do anything to the beam. Any thoughts on how to minimize these rings? I think enlarging the hole would help but I don’t really want to do this unless I really have to.
So my L2 is finally functional, but I’d like some advice. The plan was to go with an XHP50 for a big, broad beam instead of making it a “dedicated” thrower. I thought I’d sand the dome like discussed in this thread to remove the donut hole/crosshair pattern, but it didn’t go well for me. Immediately after powering it on, the reflector started filling up with some white smoke. I quickly cut the power. The emitter’s dome had started turning black in a few spots, clearly burning itself up like others experienced in the sanding thread. So just to see if I could salvage it, I pulled the emitter out and shaved the dome. Success! It still works fine, no obvious damage.
Obviously now I’ve got an even tighter hotspot (not exactly what I wanted) and the donut hole. Okay 
I may swap a different emitter into this host eventually but for now I want to figure out how to go forward with this build.
So how do I get rid of the donut hole? Is there a good OP reflector that’ll drop in here? Should I spray the reflector with something (has to be 100% reversible)? How about frosting the lens? Any other great ideas?
You could try parchment paper on the lens. DC fix is suggested frequently.