I have some XP-G3 on the way, will find out what it does in the next week or so. 
Thanks Dale, canāt wait Although I donāt have a good feeling about themā¦ So frustrating that CREE āmessed upā the XP-G2 S4ās. Curious to hear what your findings will be.
hi dale, excuse me, you intend the gap, between the led and the reflector 2mm up the normal standard fit? have you one photo from the high of the reflector to see this new gap?
Not a gap between the reflector and LED, but between the bezel and head. This means the bezel isnāt screwed down tight. This results in the inverted dome of the wide base of the reflector not being pressed flat, which is the point of focus in this light. I checked Lux on the meter while tightening and loosening the bezel, best focus in this light was with the bezel at this looser point, not smashing the reflector down. So then I made a 2mm copper ring to go between the head and bezel in order to preven the bezel from tightening down and de-focusing the tightest beam profile I could get. Result, 328Kcd on Richardās Buck driver with a de-domed XP-G2 S2 0D.
Iāve mounted an MTN modified driver for 6v leds and a MTG2 led. With 2 batteries current is about 5.6A. Itās very bright! And spot is good as well
Great isnāt it Anthon? I really like mine a lot.
Has anyone else had a problem with the 17mm MTN-Max buck driver making contact with the retaining ring? After trying to tighten the ring down far more than I wanted to, I could kind of make out a gap. Wasnāt so sure. My eyes arenāt what they used to be. Thinking I might have broken something on my XPL V6 0D (dedomed 5amps) build I shelved it for months. After recently getting one of Richardās awesome āS3ā (219C) builds and the recent L6 announcement I felt the need to pick it back up. I put a piece of solder wick into the space between driver and shelf. Viola. Not ideal I know, but Iām happy to realize that was the problem. Well sort of. Should the ring be tightening down further in the cavity? Tightened down as hard as I wanted. (threads are very fine) Thinking about a better solution than solder wick. Hardware store/ebay copper washer? I did notice if I really give the light a jerk it will switch modes.
Side notes:
The dedomed XPL 0D has great throw and tint.
I just bought a Convoy L2 host just for another 1X extension tube. With Richardās recent 12V capable buck drivers I see a XHP35 HI in my future. J-Dub74 please keep conveying the need for parts for mods. Eager to see the exact battery space (2) 1X extensions and a 2X (ring style) will offer. No doubt it would be a beast.
Thanks for any help.
Not sure if Iām on the right track here but I know most 20 to 17mm driver spacers are too thick for the L2. A too-thick spacer would not allow the retaining ring to tighten down enough. I actually had Simon make some 17mm driver spacers for that reason. In the very near future if not already they will be included with the L2 hosts. I have a few of these L2 spacers so if you think that will solve the problem just send me a PM and Iāll put one or two in the mail for you.
Thanks for the reply and the offer.
It is a 17mm driver opening L2. So, I donāt need a change in diameter spacer. It is more of a gap when the retaining ring is screwed down. Wasnāt sure if anyone else was having a simlar issue. I added some more solder wick. It is working without any mode switching when ābumpedā. Messaged Simon to add another 17mm retaining ring with my latest order. Typical of Simon he contacted me right away with his short sentenced style āOk, friendā Great seller. I will sand the threads off to make it smaller and then just drop it in under the retaining ring. At least that is the plan. Thickness being the determinate.
Side notes:
Speaking of ābumpā problems. My (2) red 3500mAh Efest 26650 were having some connection/fit problems with the QLITE spring on the MTN-MAX buck driver. The longer EVVA 26650 5200mAh worked great. What helped, but not completely eleminated the problem, was adding a Vinh Nguyen FS54 - High Drain Forward Clicky - Short Spring.
The switch was an easy direct replacement.
The actual black switch looked identical but the board, spring, and overall amount of solder looked like a great upgrade.
I could update whether a 20mm to 17mm spacer is included with my latest L2 host order. (few weeks)
That would help a XHP35 4s build I got planned.
Thanks for any help.
Gotcha. Yeah only the current version has the 20.5mm diameter driver shelf. The previous had a 17mm diameter shelf. Iāll check with Simon on the spacer rings. He was going to have another run made and the plan was to make them part of the host package but Iām not sure if that happened yet.
I just made an order from Simon and asked about the spacer ring and he said he doesnāt have them. Hes really helpful i asked him for an e packet to Australia helps keep track of my orders. but i have seen them online i believe mountain electronics has them but shipping to Australia will cost heaps for such a tiny part.
The bottom of the retaining ring is concave (āV1ā of the 2016 L2). So when tightened down it only contacts on the very outside rim of the driver, which is typically bare of copper. My fix was just to add 3 bumps of solder on the ground ring of the driver (spring-side). Safer than having some loose braid in there.
You could also try drilling the two tool holes all the way through and flipping the ring over so that the flat side presses on the driver. The threads on the retaining ring of my sample was not great, however, and I did not want to try this.
you can also use these. i tried and it didnāt work for me but old lumens has a video on how to use i think ill have to watch it.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001926/1138202-20mm-partition-boards-for-amc7135-led-flashlight-d
Simon had a few 17mm adapters sent to me for testing which I passed on to a BLF member that needed them. His build isnāt done yet but he reported they should work beautifully. These are specifically made for the L2 so there will be no need to wonder if some generic adapter will fit. Simon told the factory to make another 200 of them three days ago. In other wordsā¦problem solved. Just a little time is needed now. Iād guess no more than a week or two and they will be available.
You could center that driver on the ring and then reflow solder the driver to the ring. Iām going from memory now on the L2 since I sold the one I posted in here earlier. Now Iāve got to buy a few more because I donāt think I can keep on living without one.
Oh, you know what? The XHP35 is an LED that runs around 13.4V @ 2A+ (IIRC). To buck down to over 13V, you would have to have more than 13V from the batteries to start from. Or am I reading what youāre saying wrong?
Guys, I canāt help but express my current thoughts for the L2. I love the short single cell version. Itās been brought up so much though, about how we need to BUCK to get intensity from various LEDsā¦ Some of us solve this with 2S*18350. I donāt mind that in a single-cell 18650 build. When I have a single 26650 tube to work with though and run 2*18350s, oh, the horror of so much wasted space!
My proposal?
2*26500 length cells in a new tube. :heart_eyes:
Not long and heavy like 2*26650s. Not too low of voltage for dedomed XP-G2s. Right smack dab in the middle. Still the ability to run lighter 2*18500s, or 3*18350s if you have plenty of them. Whatās not to love! The M3XS-UT Javelot was the light which made me start to like series ā500 cells all over again. Sure itās not the ānormā, but neither are the presidential candidates.
Can I persuade anyone to join my taste for such a battery tube? 
Wow, totally missed the 26500 -- totally agree, would love to see a 2*26500 battery tube in a light such as the L6. However, I'm still very happy with my L2 doing 292 kcd (1081 meters) on a single EFEST 26650, dedomed XM-L2 U4 1C, in gas of course. But using two high performance cells at 3000 mAh each with a good buck driver is a better situation - hold high amps more consistently, longer, and can deal with the high Vf LED's much better.
I would be interested too, if Simon makes them for the L2/L6 because the battery tube also fits the JAX X6 with a little work. Right now Iām using the extension and 2x26650 tube to run (4) 26500ās XHP35. 
I have the matching 2x26650 tube to the extensionās coming to replace the block tube. Where do you get 26500ās that would work in series with out solder blobāem them? Have yet to see name brand button top 26500ās?
True, I've only seen flat tops, but button tops are typically done by rewrappers/distributors/etc. anyways, as I understand it, so just a matter of market demand I would suspect. In this case, only 26500's I've seen are EFEST and they are a rewrapper, so, they may have no demand currently for these to be button tops.
Chicken-and-egg thing... I dunno of any lights designed even for single 26500's - is there?
EFest! Ecig mods use 26500s like crazy, and thereās plenty of others. Even if you have to use a magnet or solder, thatās a really fast fix to keep what I think is a great idea in motion. Remember at 2S, most average cells become quite alright because the amp pull halves.
Check this site out for 26500s on the list: Battery test-review 18650 comparator
I have the Efest, had to blob them? 
Donāt like the magnet mod, I had a close call once!!! :person_facepalming: At 2.5 amp max XHP35 isnāt high current anyways? I was thinking of a 4S 18500 battery carrier XHP35, with extra carriers for faster reloads.But Iām still in or with ya on the idea, just a few hurdles, thatās all? Getting the battery button topped and battery tubes made? Nothing MAJOR? 