Excellent results on the dedome. I think starting with a 0D tint gives the best dedome tint result. I have to try that, as I have not been happy with 1X tint dedomes so far.
Several bags of goodies arrived this week from IOS & LCK LED.
I chose this driver, as it’s a direct, no-fuss drop in for the L2. (the picture in the link is wrong).
I was (& still am) planning on hooking it up to one of the XPG-2’s from IOS after the dome has been removed, but first I thought I’d try the MT-G2 on for size, as it’s a perfect fit into the L2’s reflector hole…
Very straight-forward mod to drop in the driver & MT-G board just to check out the MT-G in action, compared to some other lights. The L2 measured 5.2a at the tail with 2*26650’s.
I took some lux measurements in a 3*90deg tube like a few other guys use, & it blows almost everything away;
Stock L2 on high - 64k
L2 + MT-G - 215k
Stock BTU on Turbo - 218k
I lined up a stock CW BTU Shocker, Solarforce MPP1, a C8 XML de-domed @ 2.8a, & the above-mentioned L2+MT-G, & went outside for some comparison shots;
BTU low;
BTU turbo;
MPP1;
C8;
L2+MT-G;
Another comparison between the BTU & L2+MT-G;
BTU turbo;
L2+MT-G;
The flood is big, & I’m sure with a decent reflector & some more amps, it would throw all of that flood quite some distance as well…
Not sure how to do the ‘mouse-over’ frames for direct comparison….someone feel free if you like 
good to know that driver fits, its a good match to the mt-g2, I have that set up in my torchlite host.
Might have to get another l2 and driver then. :party:
Mouse over on your last two shots (BTU Turbo = Mouse Out, L2 = Mouse Over):
Another, BTU Turbo = Mouse Out, L2 = Mouse Over:
Very Nice!
-Garry
Thanks Garry
Got around to de-doming an XP-G2 & swapping it over into the L2, with the same driver as above
I had problems getting the reflector low enough, so had to counter-sink the LED retaining screws & move the wires out a little further;
I’m still debating on drilling/filing out the hole in the reflector, as there is a ‘dead spot’ in the beam if you shine it close to the wall (within a foot or so), due to the die being flush with the flat part in the bottom.
There’s also a few rings in the beam, & I think the spill is being limited a little.
If I could buy a spare reflector, I’d rip into it for sure….
Anyway, as it is, it’s an awesome thrower;
I hit it on the lux meter @ 1m;
A little over 1400
The same torch with a de-domed XML @ 3.2a was doing half that, as does the BTU….
I took it into work today to show ‘the boys’… There is also a lot more open area to get a better perspective of how far this thing can throw. I picked out a concrete silo, which it easily lit up, & plugged the distance into Google Earth when I got home;
376 meters (best part of 1/4 of a mile).
…& it lit the thing up clearly, with heaps of light pollution around as well.
:bigsmile:
that’s looking good. I have the parts in transit for my next iteration and another complete light for someone else.
the light meter will determine which spec I eventually go with but it should be a monster.
G’day, I want to get an L2 and put an MT-G2 in it. My question though, you say this driver fits in perfectly. I’m a little confused as on the page it says it requires 15mm of clearance yet earlier in this thread I read that the L2 only has 11mm of space??
that driver is indeed a direct fit, tight but a direct fit.
the mt g2 also fits in the reflector hole, just you’ll have to make an isolator and to get best focus use thin copper strips to move the wire connections outboard of the star.
Awesome, I have just ordered the MT-G2 and that driver. As for batteries… what are you all using?
I have only ever used 18650s and was going to get some PD cells for it but since it takes 26650s I might as well make use of that.
Would something like THESE King Kong 26650s from FT be able to supply adequate current for the 5A driver?
king kongs will do it. but it means running unprotected cells in series.
at these currents (2.5a/cell) protected trustfire flames from fasttech do the job and are not as bad as most *fire cells. they do fit in the l2 because these are what I’ve sold one with and done most of my testing with.
Thanks, so it is safer to use protected cells when running in series?
Yes, it’s safer, but as long as you maintain & keep an eye on the condition of your cells, you won’t have a problem.
I have both the Ultrafire & KK ICR 26650’s, & for my current configuration with the xp-g2(as above), the UF’s actually show a slightly higher reading at the tailcap (although the KK’s are brand new, on their first charge). I’m sure if I were to ask more from the cells, the KK’s would deliver the amps under a high-load situation.
Thanks for that, I decided to go for the protected flames from FT instead of the KK’s. Since I am building this light for a mate I figured the safer the better. He is an electrical instrument technician by trade but he still has not had a lot of experience with lithium cells.
Now I just have to wait for everything to arrive!
I haven't been feeling well, but I feel bad if I don't do some kind of mod on my day off. I had two L2s on hand, so I went with that.
This was a no fuss, no adjusting, straight forward mod. I connected an MT-G2 on a Noctigon to a Dry driver. The Dry driver is a perfect fit, just pop it in and tighten the retaining ring. It doesn't get easier than that.
With a pair of E-Moli 26650 I got a reading of 5.8A, and 6A with a pair of Sony's. I have my KingKong And FourSevens 26650s on the charger. I can post the results if anyone is interested. The FourSevens cells are protected, but always seem to give me higher readings.
I was having sporadic problems getting the light to turn on. The cells were compressing the driver spring and making contact with the retaining ring. I cut a plastic disc and placed it around the spring. Problem solved.
I knew I shouldn't do it, but I couldn't help myself. I added an extension and dropped in a third 26650. I took a really fast tail reading and saw 13A.
I'll need to wait til night to get a visual on the output.
Oh yeah. I left the stock wires on the Dry driver. Thicker leads would probably produce higher current readings. I left the stock wires on because of the reflector clearance and I wasn't in a mood to be chasing after shorts. I'll upgrade them when I'm in a more patient mood.
All springs are copper braided.
Naughty words here. 13 amps, wow. Is that at the tailcap or the led?
Tailcap.
This DRY driver? The specs say it’s 32mm, but I thought the driver cavity of the L2 only allows for 20mm drivers.