NarsilM (the newest one) also has a non ramping UI built in, but it’s not that great. I stick with ramping. I really don’t know much about the D4 UI (called RampingIOS) other than its a stripped down and slightly changed version of NarsilM.
Mountain Electronics just started offering that RampingIOS a few weeks ago so it’s pretty new and wasn’t available when I built my 2 lights. NarsilM wasn’t out when I built my L6, which is why it has the older Narsil v1.2 and no temp regulation. I use my hands to control the temp.
I ordered my Supfire driver right when NarsilM came out so it has temp regulation, but I still use my hand as it’s such a small light.
I wouldn’t mess with any of this. You can squeeze out a few more lux on the meter, but I actually prefer not to do it. The difference is in the corona size around the hot spot. Just try the smooth reflector with the stock centering ring.
I can hardly imagine that… I used a solder paste which melts at ~220°C and placed the LED only when the paste was already liquid. Then I put it on a copper heat sink immediatley.
Like I said, I have toasted a couple and so have a few other’s. The flip chip emitter (XP-G3 XP-L2 XHP50.2 XHP70.2) are a little more sensitive to heat in my experiences and opinion. Ive done over 40 XHP70 and XHP70.2 re-flows, I found it hard to believe too, but it is what it is, that’s how modding go’s! :cry:
Look around and you will find examples….some pics too….
if you placed the cool LED on liquid solder, and the rapidly cooled the LED on a heatsink that’s a insane thermal stress
no wonder the LED died, a normal reflow following the specs takes several minutes
there are charts that show how fast and slow you have to heat and cool the LED during reflow
for the XHP70 they even have a way slower heat up rate than XML with 1.2°C per second!
Average Ramp-Up Rate (Tsmax to Tp) 1.2 °C/second
Preheat: Temperature Min (Tsmin) 120 °C
Preheat: Temperature Max (Tsmax) 170 °C
Preheat: Time (tsmin to tsmax) 65-150 seconds
Time Maintained Above: Temperature (TL) 217 °C
Time Maintained Above: Time (tL) 45-90 seconds
Peak/Classification Temperature (Tp) 235 - 245 °C
Time Within 5 °C of Actual Peak Temperature (tp) 20-40 seconds
Ramp-Down Rate 1 - 6 °C/second
Time 25 °C to Peak Temperature 4 minutes max.
Mine were do to heat, the Maxtoch 32mm white board turned tan. I remove from the aluminum heating block with tweezers and let it hang till cooled from my helping hands clip(s), never set it down except maybe on wood (my work table) if I’m re-flowing more than 2 boards which is rare.
But I could definitely see how the shock of instant cooling could distress an LED.
Or just placing a cold board and LED on a heated plate, I always start the boards on a ambient temperature plate, then heat them up together.
Depends on how hard you wish to work to install one… I’ll use whatever I have here, which is a bunch of mini Omtens, and whatever board I can find to mount em on.
Typically I just rig the old board to hold a mini Omten and run with it. Make whatever adaptation is necessary.
These can take a lot more than 10amps with out fading away, heavy copper contacts that are silver plated…I think there was a thread on CPF about them way back. Maybe Vinh?
Remember the Tofty switch? You could take it apart and clean the heavy copper contacts and reassemble it. $25 per switch, but heavy duty to an extreme. I bought more of those than I probably should have…
I’m thinking, since I have Narsil, what if I do away with the rear switch? Just bypass it. Then I can manually cut power with a 1/4 turn of the tail cap. I’d get full power then! Lol
I added a tail switch to my SupFire M6 that’s heavily modified with SST-40’s and I had 18ga leads to the switch off the stock but modified spring pcb. I had to add a second set of 18ga leads to fully let it run, it pulls 27.7A through a large Omten switch.
any Ideas?
