dale
any beamshots ???i do like the MTG2 and should be fun inside! you loose more of the throw to get higher spill output ?
I just really like the big fat Cree MT-G2, not a win/lose scenario for me, more of a “I want” kind of thing. lol
It’s definitely got the unique MT-G2 creaminess, and some slight artifacts white wall hunting from the all the tiny dies, but there is a hot spot which is the difficult thing with this large of an emitter.
I’ll take a quick shot and show you what it does on the wall… brb
Edit: Pic added, Silver L6 with MT-G2 and stock driver.
Edit II: On freshly charged iJoy 26650’s, (before the beamshot) it makes 6.07A at the tail for 3453.8 lumens.
Sounds good. Can you notice a significant difference visually when using the KeepPowers compared to the Liitokalas?
I plan to cover the board in kapton tape so short circuits shouldn’t be a problem. Seems like I should get similar results if I just remove the centering ring and don’t modify the reflector. In the instructions on mountain electronics he replaces the centering ring with a flat gasket, but then he has to shave off some of the reflector to make up for the thickness of the gasket.
i like it !
i think i’ll try it i have one spare mtg2
Is there any benefit going with a Texas Avenger driver running Narsil compared to the MTN driver running D4 UI? Starting to look at the TA instead of the MTN driver.
Edit: Finally found a document explaining all the settings for the Narsil UI so I’ll go with a TA driver if any are available.
It’s a small, extra boost in brightness. Once you start pushing the led hard the gains become less and less, but the heat goes up a lot.
I only paid about $12 shipped for a pair of unprotected liitokala batteries. They made a noticable improvement on the stock driver (when resistor modded). I’ve got a lux meter so I can measure all these gains, but the human eye just sees a small boost.
You could get some liitokala cells later if you want to try them. Just ramp down the power for less heat and longer runtimes.
NarsilM (the newest one) also has a non ramping UI built in, but it’s not that great. I stick with ramping. I really don’t know much about the D4 UI (called RampingIOS) other than its a stripped down and slightly changed version of NarsilM.
Mountain Electronics just started offering that RampingIOS a few weeks ago so it’s pretty new and wasn’t available when I built my 2 lights. NarsilM wasn’t out when I built my L6, which is why it has the older Narsil v1.2 and no temp regulation. I use my hands to control the temp.
I ordered my Supfire driver right when NarsilM came out so it has temp regulation, but I still use my hand as it’s such a small light.
I wouldn’t mess with any of this. You can squeeze out a few more lux on the meter, but I actually prefer not to do it. The difference is in the corona size around the hot spot. Just try the smooth reflector with the stock centering ring.
Just installed my brand new XHP70.2 from Mouser but only one of the 4 dies is working 
any Ideas?
Toasted during re-flow! Iv’e done a couple too.
I can hardly imagine that… I used a solder paste which melts at ~220°C and placed the LED only when the paste was already liquid. Then I put it on a copper heat sink immediatley.
Like I said, I have toasted a couple and so have a few other’s. The flip chip emitter (XP-G3 XP-L2 XHP50.2 XHP70.2) are a little more sensitive to heat in my experiences and opinion. Ive done over 40 XHP70 and XHP70.2 re-flows, I found it hard to believe too, but it is what it is, that’s how modding go’s! :cry:
Look around and you will find examples….some pics too….
if you placed the cool LED on liquid solder, and the rapidly cooled the LED on a heatsink that’s a insane thermal stress
no wonder the LED died, a normal reflow following the specs takes several minutes
there are charts that show how fast and slow you have to heat and cool the LED during reflow
for the XHP70 they even have a way slower heat up rate than XML with 1.2°C per second!
Average Ramp-Up Rate (Tsmax to Tp) 1.2 °C/second
Preheat: Temperature Min (Tsmin) 120 °C
Preheat: Temperature Max (Tsmax) 170 °C
Preheat: Time (tsmin to tsmax) 65-150 seconds
Time Maintained Above: Temperature (TL) 217 °C
Time Maintained Above: Time (tL) 45-90 seconds
Peak/Classification Temperature (Tp) 235 - 245 °C
Time Within 5 °C of Actual Peak Temperature (tp) 20-40 seconds
Ramp-Down Rate 1 - 6 °C/second
Time 25 °C to Peak Temperature 4 minutes max.
wow, never thought of that… The first LED I ever destroyed during reflow… thx for the chart! I’ll change my approach from now on…
Mine were do to heat, the Maxtoch 32mm white board turned tan. I remove from the aluminum heating block with tweezers and let it hang till cooled from my helping hands clip(s), never set it down except maybe on wood (my work table) if I’m re-flowing more than 2 boards which is rare.
But I could definitely see how the shock of instant cooling could distress an LED.
Or just placing a cold board and LED on a heated plate, I always start the boards on a ambient temperature plate, then heat them up together.
Is Convoy the only place to get replacement tail switches for the L6?
Depends on how hard you wish to work to install one… I’ll use whatever I have here, which is a bunch of mini Omtens, and whatever board I can find to mount em on. 
Typically I just rig the old board to hold a mini Omten and run with it. Make whatever adaptation is necessary.
I was hoping mtn might have a direct replacement, but I haven’t heard back from them yet. If they don’t carry it, I’ll just order one from overseas.
I think the high amps on my L6 are starting to wear it out. It’s not pulling as much current through the switch as it used to.
Used to be able to get these off Evil-Bay…
http://www.calonsw.com/en/pshow.asp?id=853
I have a couple left, need to find more!