I was thinking a complete switch already mounted to the pcb that would drop into the L6 tail cap.
These can take a lot more than 10amps with out fading away, heavy copper contacts that are silver plated…I think there was a thread on CPF about them way back. Maybe Vinh?
Remember the Tofty switch? You could take it apart and clean the heavy copper contacts and reassemble it. $25 per switch, but heavy duty to an extreme. I bought more of those than I probably should have…
I’m thinking, since I have Narsil, what if I do away with the rear switch? Just bypass it. Then I can manually cut power with a 1/4 turn of the tail cap. I’d get full power then! Lol
I added a tail switch to my SupFire M6 that’s heavily modified with SST-40’s and I had 18ga leads to the switch off the stock but modified spring pcb. I had to add a second set of 18ga leads to fully let it run, it pulls 27.7A through a large Omten switch.
Anyone know an adapter that convert 20mm to 17mm for driver without soldering? Its for use with the L2. The previous l2 was 17mm default.
Do what I did for my F13. Get the right-sized Cu washer that’s got a slightly smaller ID and correct OD. Use a step-bit to go only halfway through the inner hole to let the driver sit on it like a shelf.
In my case, they were M16×22×1 washers. 22mm OD to plop right into the F13, 1mm thick, and 16mm ID hole. Half-drill it with a 17mm step-bit to create a 17mm space halfway through, and still leave the 16mm hole, giving it a ½mm ledge to sit on.
Go crazy…
Thank you guys :+1:
I had a new review light show up today from Sofirn, UPS left it at the road hidden in grass! Duh! (at 7:30 tonight, in the dark) So I took the 300 yard walk down to the road with my L2 and find it really pleasing with a de-domed XM-L2! Great beam, useful coverage, really putting some light out. Seriously easy to see the end of our drive from 300 yds away, like daylight down there! I do wish the knurling would have been left with more bite to it, it’s so flat on top it really doesn’t offer much grip so I’m going to have to put the lanyard on it, sure don’t want to let it slip out of my hand and get marred up on our old driveway! 
I’ve tried a few different emitters in this one, really settling on the de-domed XM-L2, waiting for a few new ones to show up in the U4 power bin, should up the ante a bit… 
Oh yeah, by the way, I used a driver board from MTN that fit the L2’s driver bay, it’s a straight FET with no 7135 chips and I flashed it with Biscotti to keep inline with the present Convoy options. Using the 2nd option, 5 levels, works out really well for me. Just wish it had reversing like Bistro but oh well…
Thanks for the reminder about knurling! I’ve asked Simon to work on some more aggressive knurling and he said he would but he has a lot going on. I’m imagining that hasn’t happened yet and I’ve been slacking in the reminder department. 
So…what did Sofirn send you? C8F? They sent me one of those. I need to familiarize myself with the UI before I can tell if I like the driver setup but it does have a nice neutral tint and a nicely centered beam from a triple. I’m not setup to properly measure lumens but based on my eyeball measurement I’d guess their 2580 rating should be fairly close. Lots of bright from a little light. 
Yep, the new C8F with a side switch, DTP copper board under 3 XP-L NW. The tint is just slightly cooler than V6 3D emitters, very nice. I measured it at 2970 lumens at start on their protected 3000mAh cell, 2667 at 30 seconds. Very nice, they’ve been listening!
I’m considering to build myself a L2 during the Christmas holidays. Since I’m new to the modding scene, I’m gonna ask you guys for help
Emitter: CREE XHP50.2 Neutral White 5000K
Driver: FX6 22mm 5A or LD29S 20mm 3A
Can the XHP50.2 be safely driven at 5A in a Convoy L2 host? If not, my other option is to drive it according to spec (3A).
Also, is it possible to fit the FX6 in the L2?
I bought an L2 XPL-HI and eventually plan to mod it to XHP50 or 35HI but not sure what centering ring I will need.
It might get hot on turbo but it should not be too bad.
Maybe if you cleared the inside of the flashlight and sanded the edges of the driver. It certainly won’t be easy.
We take the driver FX-6 with its five amps and accurately grind to 21 mm in diameter
We add the diode Cree XHP50.2 J4-3A soldered to Syncpad
We change the button of a direct click on the button of the reverse click, there really it is necessary to add a couple of shaeboch for feng shui
As a result, we get a Nazgul-blaster or Shaitan-Maschin: F
The main kapton tape for every fireman is to isolate the coil from contact with the hull
There is of course anodization, but …
On the other lanterns checked, the springs burn out in the trash, but the driver is alive all living))))
P.S.
On the ring holding the driver, from the driver’s side make a chamfer from about 0.8 mm so as not to shorten the legs of the microcircuits or whatever else there are with the 8th paws))))
I hate forward switches most of the time when I only have the clicky to operate a flashlight. So I decided to put in a reverse clicky in my L2. The most commin is the Omten 1288 but it is much shorter than the original forward clicky in the L2. I also want to use a rev 5.1 lighted tailcap ring by PD68 so I designed a spacer to pur on switch PCB under the Omten 1288 to raise it as high as the original switch. I made a cutout to clear the resistors on the bottom of the ring PCB and If somebody wants to use PD68’s high amp switch board I also made place for a spring bypass wire on the bottom side of spacer if the wire goes through the switch PCB. I wil 3D print it and try it soon.
Here is the link for the spacer if somebody wants to print it.
EDIT: It will be in my heat colored L2 which now has an SST40 and TA OTSM driver. It has the stoch switch now but it pulls 9,5A and puts out 2226 lumens. And has 172 Kcd intensity and throws 830m.
It has useful size hot spot and The L2 host only gets hot after 5 minutes in turbo.
And I printed and test fitted the Omten 1288 reverse clicky adapter in the L2 tailcap. The wire groove not perfect but if somebody want to download the model file I corrected it. The high amp board needs a little grinding because it has a little pocket in the retaining ring and a little bit too large. Otherwise it fits nicely and the switch feel is good.
Hey what kind of chocolates are in that bowl :heart_eyes:
Very cool indeed! :+1: Wouldn’t mind having a few of them myself!