Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

Actually, Jason, the green you’re seeing is some stuck on coating (on the underside of the resistor) from the circuit board that I lifted the resistor off of. The right hand pic shows a swatch of green missing from the board. The top is black with R100 printed.

If you decide to remove driver for swapping out or working on, JasonWW shared a Kawiboy tweak that was pictured on post #265, but now photo is not available (due to photobucket crackdown). It allows you to remove driver & side switch without desoldering the switch (recommended).

Okay, just checking. :slight_smile:

Yeah, 30mm.

I just uploaded all my L6 pictures in my thread. Link in my signature.

Here’s the pic you were referring to.

thanks for the tips.

thank you


I m modding a L6 silver with a 30mm fet driver from MTN and xhp70 N4 bin.
I have de soldered and replaced led and driver and side switch.
But when I turn on with tail switch I only have the high mode. Side switch dont do anything…
Any idea?


So the side switch works since it’s turning on the light, but it’s not cycling through the modes?

I’ve never worked with that driver. I would suggest asking Richard about it since he was the one who assembled and programmed it.

I turn on light with the tail switch. But seems like side switch doesn’t work…
I did an email and waiting for reply

Okay, well you can check the side switch to make sure it’s making continuity just by putting a multimeter on it and pressing the button to see if you have contact. If it has continuity without pushing the button then you may need to desolder one of the wires so you can check it properly.

Or just short the switch pads, bypassing the switch to see if the driver responds.

I checked that and there is continuity only when I push it. Strange no?

That’s what it’s supposed to do. It’s normally open and when you push the button, that closes the circuit.

So if you rule out a bad switch, then the problem might be a component on the driver or maybe the firmware had an issue when it was flashed. I would have to wait to hear back from Richard because I can’t go any further than that.

Did you check continuity at each end of the switch to driver wires, in case you have a broken wire, midway?

This sounds like a short between battery negative/ground and LED negative. Basically connecting the LED direct drive. Commonly this can be caused by the reflector touching the negative LED wire, but you will have to find the short in your case because it could be several different spots.

Did you put the original side switch onto Richards driver or did it come with a side switch? The easiest thing to do wrong is connect the switch wires in the wrong place. No way to get em backwards or anything, just the wrong pads. In the past Richard wasn’t making this size with a side switch, I don’t know if he’s doing so now or not.

If you put the switch wires on his driver, can you tell us where you soldered them?

Edit: Nevermind, I saw your pictures. The main thing you should look at now is if you have a short at the reflector to the black contact on the mcpcb…

Got my XHP70.2 today :slight_smile:

Really nice improvement in throw and almost no donut hole.


finally Richard respond me also and it wasnt the reflector, but in some way the negative wire on the LED did touch the copper side of the mcpcb…and there was a continuity between negative led and host.

I mesured the sotck L6 and the XHP70 N4 + FET MTN driver and i got 1.6x more lumens.

That’s a good host for modding

thanks you all for your replies and answers.

Since I just got my first L6 I’d like to do something… Could you guys help me with my shopping list? :slight_smile:
I wan’t to use a sliced XHP70.2 with the SMO reflector for getting the most throw and lumens possible.

1) SMO Reflector
2) XHP70.2 P2, 4000K
3) Liitokala 26650 (are they the best I can get? The last 26650 I bought was the KingKong about 3 or 4 years ago…)
4) Driver: I’d like to have Narsil, high current and a lighted side-switch. AFAIK Lexel doesn’t build the TA-drivers any more? Some other source I could get them from?
5) which board/led’s and rubber domes do you guys use for the lighted side switch?

Apart from that… anyone thought about making the head out of copper (this light is just to light :wink: ) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)

Slicing is probably not worth it in terms of throw :wink: