The 7135s are 3 pins: ground down the middle, enables on one side (pulled high for on), and output on the other side (yanking down on the LED’s negative end).
Dunno about the 12-fers, but on the NANJGs you can “trace” (haha) the one common trace that runs to all the enables and goes to one of the µC’s pins. That goes right near the positive rail at some point, where it’s right next to the enables. Forgot where exactly, but one little solder-blob pegs those enables always-high.
Of course, in addition to no more modes, there’s no more LVP or anything, so keep that in mind.
Being that I got a bunch of drivers that are just 7135s and a blocking diode (no µC, nothing else), it’s no big deal to me, but anyone who insists on keeping its training-wheels, that might be an issue.
Does anyone here know if the Samsung 50E pushes the L21A W2 all the way to full maximum power output? Do you need a 40T for that or is the 50E more than enough power for full turbo? Thank you.
Thank you kindly sir. That’s what I expected but I wanted to confirm. I’m giving one as a gift and wanted to make sure I got them the best possible battery.
That’s interesting, i still have a few cheap S2+ ’ es around with that specific blink on low.
Do you have a picture of this mod? Or a link to a thread, then i can give it a shot
Does this mean that the 50E can’t continuously push the needed 8A? I always hear people dividing total amps into the amount of LED’s in a light. That’s why it seems like the 50E “should” work. What happens with the 50E in this light? Just doesn’t push full turbo, or it does but for far too short of time?
The original old 50E definitely starts to struggle in the 8A range. It will work, but it will give lesser high output runtimes than a lower capacity 48X or 40T along with aging faster. The 50E2 or 50G or 50S(especially) can handle 8A no problem. Depending on the dropout voltage of this buck driver, it could be a wash with the lower cap, higher power cells.
I have been hearing about many other Samsung Batteries like the 50S, 50G and now the 50E.2 but they don’t seem to be available anywhere that I’ve checked. Are these non-US cells or do I just not know how where to find them? Thanks for the info.
Some are easiest to acquire via rewraps, some not at all right now. Vapcell G50 seems to be the 50G, 50E2 is available in EU I think, 48X probably is under some Vapcell but I don’t know which one. 50S is the new vaporware of li-ions. Vapcell had a prelim run of them in their T50 which is OOS now. Some lucky members have them and they give 40T power and 50E energy.
There is a source of 50E2s. They aren’t listed that way but seems to be what they are.
Thank you for the info. I have been looking around and learned about the Molicel P42a. Do you think the Molicel would be acceptable in this light or would it be a waste?
Also, will the Samsung 50E.v2 actually hold these 8A or should I still ultimately shoot a bit higher?
I hear the 40T and P42a are similar, but the Moli is essentially right between the 30T and 40T. I like the versatility of the Moli but don’t want to over do it on this light. Could I still go with Moli’s or is the 50E.v2 “the one” for this light? Thank you
Would you bundle this light with the Molicel P42a? The Moli and 40T are supposedly in the same class as I understand it. The thing is that 40T’s are out in most places at the moment but I can get the Moli’s. How do you like them for this? Thanks.
Glad to read this thread on the Biscotti. Considering it vs Narsil something or other because I can’t find Andúril thrower without the stupid charge port & full Ipx8.
Can probably use it just fine once it’s programmed.
