Not a fan of ramping myself, as you don’t know what output level, and thus expected runtime you have selected. At least Narsil has the choice of ramping and normal modes.
I have to agree with others in that I am a big fan of having the side switch control on/off and modes, with the tail switch lockout. Its how mine works with the MTN 30mm fet driver, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Plus have the side switch light up so you know if the rear switch is on or off. That adds a nice touch. 
great thread, awesome flashlight!
my convoy l2 came with only 1 screw to hold the led to the base, does anyone know the size of this screw?
Screw is for anti rotation. Reflector is what holds down star.
Making more TA drivers with Narsil fitting the L6
If you really want another screw, it’s a 2.5mm machine screw with a length 9mm or shorter. I converted my L6 to bolt down the emitter so I bought screws 12mm long and shortened them so I had the most threads possible. They are slotted type and are a pain to get started if you don’t have a split blade or split shank screw driver. If you do have one, it’s easy peasy. :+1:
Such a nice work with the focus there Jason :+1:
The mod bugs eats away at the soul, ya know?
I took the Clear L6 apart and went out to the shop to fit a 26mm MaxToch star into the emitter shelf. Did a bit of tweaking on the reflector so the hole would fit over the MT-G2 and got everything sorted out, came back in and stacked an R100 on the driver.
So now, with a smooth reflector over an MT-G2 I’m seeing
0.69A for 20.32 lumens
0.83A for 151.8
2.83A for 1269.6
7.02A for 3412.05
Edit: Discovered the two new iJoy 26650’s were at 75%, so on fresh charged cells with a cleaned reflector it makes 3791.55 lumens. Works for me! 
All this with a beautiful creamy large hot spot. Yeah, just gotta love the big fat MT-G2 emitter. 
Guess I have to make an effort and take the reflector out, wash some of the dust out of it now. Always something…
Man the little teeny-tiny reflections of those little dies in the MT-G2 in that smooth reflector look SO cool!
Hmmm, wonder if I could get a DQG Tiny III driver to put in an L2, pushing a big Cree COB like I’ve got in my Tiny III now? The COB would look pretty radical in a big reflector, I’m thinking. (single 26650 driver boosted to 21V at 1A. The big CXA 1512 makes 2000 lumens on the single cell) Pretty sure I have a spare…
i learn something new everyday here 
thanks for the screw details.
A pic of the 26mm Maxtoch fitted into the L6 and glued in with Arctic Silver…
Made pad clearance on the back of the reflector so as to avoid a short, still used Kapton tape just to be on the safe side because I like to seat the reflector onto the mcpcb around the big MT-G2, to ensure it doesn’t short on the inside edge of the opening I first cut one layer of tape at the edge of the hole, then apply a second layer and cut it about 1/16” from the edge, this lets the emitter have that “cushion” so if anything shifts the reflector opening can’t short on the substrate, which it’s prone to do on the MT-G2.
I use a scalpel to make the cuts, my blade is getting horribly dull so it’s a jagged cut this time, gotta toss that one and break out a new blade.
I have my lux meter back.
I did a ceiling bounce with the FX30 driver with R100 resistor added. I measured using a sliced-dome xhp70 and a dome-on xhp70. Both are N4 1A. I also compared the Liitokala against the KeepPower 5200 protected cell. I’ve already shown the Liitokala pulls more amps (7A) compared to the KeepPowers (5.7A) and here is proof they put out more light as well.
Sliced dome
KeepPower - 343
Liitokala - 377
Dome on
KeepPower - 400
Liitokala - 460
Crunching numbers:
The sliced dome looses you 14% light output on the KeepPowers and 18% on the Liitokalas. You loose lumens, but gain a more intense focus which means longer distance. Slicing the dome also helps to reduce the donut hole some.
The Liitokalas give you a 10% boost over the KeepPowers with a sliced dome and a 15% boost over the KeepPowers with the dome on. You can see the brighter output.
Thanks for the numbers!
Went to tear down my original stock Black L6, to change drivers and discovered this:
Guess it’s OK to be color blind when soldering wires to LED.
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Maybe the emitter was soldered to the mcpcb reversed?
Maybe the red wire goes to the drivers negative and the vice versa?
Since it’s a diode, I’m pretty sure it won’t light up if the voltages are actually switched.
Driver wires look ok. How do I check the LED?
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You would have to unsolder it from the mcpcb and look on the bottom. It has a T shape printed on the bottom that tells you positive and negative.
It’s really too much work to check. I would just use a marker or something and remark the + and - for future reference.
Check here for more details and pictures on xhp70.