Even Jared, who assisted in the design… he thought Simon had changed his mind and didn’t add the threads for the tactical ring. 
Get’s a good many of us, me included, on that first L6.
i prefer the normal ring over the tactical 
#UnpopularOpinion
Before I even stick in the cells, I usually take off any tac-ring, clip, any other crap that I don’t want on a light.
Hey, if anyone here is interested, Texas_Ace is going to build a limited run of calibrated Lumen Tubes/Spheres (with no math involved!) for those that want to measure their L6 or any other lights actual output. More details are here.
I recently ordered a clear L6 from Simon that was on sale. I am relatively new to this Forum and flashlight maddness 
Can anyone tell me what the best mods are for this light and where to find them….same for his C8….both the C8 and the L6 have the Biscotti as I understand.
Biscotti is used on lights with a clicky switch that controls the brightness levels.
The L6 does not use Biscotti. It’s completely different. It uses the e-switch on the side to cycle through the 4 brightness modes. The tail switch is just on and off. So there is nothing that you can program or adjust on the L6.
I have the Emisor D4 and that is the first light that I have had with ramping.
Can you tell me what are the best mods for the L6
I suspect bypassing the spring is one.
Does anybody prefer orange peel for a reflector for this light or are smooth reflectors the only way to go?
I am not familiar with Narsil….
I don’t want to have to do any programing….
Thanks
Saw your video.
Do you do any custom modding for others?
I have an Astrolux MF01
The l6 already comes with bypassed springs and a op reflector. That works very well with the xhp70. Has no donut hole like the original s70 has.
There’s not much you can do besides a driver swap and upgrade to a higher binned xhp70 or xhp 70.2 I’m surprised no one told you that.
Same with the c8 driver swap and emitter swaps are the main options. It’s springs don’t come bypassed from the factory so you can do that. C8s are easy to take apart and put together. Led swaps are easy. It takes longer to set up your iron, tweezers and pliers then to actually swap the emitter
Are you suggesting that I could have asked Simon to give me a different LED and driver?
Are people doing a ramping mod for the L6?
Where do you get higher binned LEDs/
What driver offers the best upgrade for the L6?
How about the UI….
Do I have to program it myself?
I also want to mod the Astrolux MF01 I just got in the Nichia 219.
However, I don’t like the idea of having wires running all around the LEDs under the lens
I would like a ramping interface though.
You would have to do the driver swap and led swap yourself or send it to a handful of members on here to do it. Simon doesn’t offer the fet driver or the other drivers for it. And he won’t have the higher binned xhp70s or 70.2 only what’s available on his Alistore is what he could have installed in the light. Led swaps are easy. Unscrew everything. Pop out centering ring. Unsolder two wires remove. Put thermal grease on the new star. Resolder in and assemble back together.
For the mf01 you probably won’t be modding it unless it was the very first batch. The bezel is glued down with redloctite. You’ll need a torch and vice and a strap wrench. And if you get it to crack it will probably have some cosmetic damage afterwards. 10,000 lumens is plenty. The wires are fine under the lens. It’s a nice light to enjoy it how it is. Nothing is impossible to get into. But you’ll need 500 600 degrees to crack it open. And hope the threads arnt damaged in the process. But they sell just the heads for 80 online I think. If you destroyed that one you can buy a replacement
I have the following Convoy’s BD06, BD01(ordered,) S2, C8, S9 (ordered,) L6(ordered)
The BD01 Biscoti has a problem although it is not an issue….I can’t take it out of memory mode.
He is sending another board.
The C8 has the Biscoti as do both the BD06 and 01.
Are guys swaping out all the boards on these?
What boards and how do you change the UI to something that ramps?
On the Convoy L6, it can benefit a great deal from a smooth reflector, XHP-70.2, and a bump in the driver output. These things are pretty easy to accomplish even for someone really new to it all. Pre-requisite is the ability to solder of course, other than that it’s pretty simple to stack a resistor on the driver to gain output, solder in a 70.2 for a tighter beam with more output. The smooth reflector is about as easy a swap as it comes but there is room for error there as with all of it, be sure to not touch the inside of the reflector as the mirror finish plating is very thin and it is quite difficult to clean it should it get fouled, many consider it close to impossible to clean a reflector without damage.
There can be trade-off’s when going for a LOT more power, as you get into much more heat as well as severely reduced run times from your cells, so a balance is desirable, gains without excess. (I should not be the one saying this, I know)
The relatively new Biscotti drivers are good, a challenge for a noob is to stack additional 7135 regulation chips on the older style driver to gain output power. This can be quite tedious as the legs that need to be soldered are quite small and the space is cramped. Good to practice on an old driver before risking your lights only driver. Old Lumens, a much respected member here who passed away, did YouTube video’s on the chip stacking. Worth looking up…
The standard 105C style driver has 8 chips, for 3.04A output. Stacking 4 additional chips on the inside will give you 4.5A approximately and this works very well to achieve a good increase in light while also still having decent run times. More chips, more power, less run time, more heat. Trade-offs…
I appreciate all of your input…I have killed a few expensive laser diodes…at 66, I am not quite as steady as I used to be I happen to like OP because I don’t like the hot spots…of course it depends upon the function…what you are trying to get.
I just got the Emisar D4…geee….man you put that thing in turbo….talk about heat up……I don’t kow if I made a mistake getting the Cyan one for my wife….I tried to put it in the lowes heat setting possible.
How do you get a ramping UI like the D4 on the L6, C8 or any other Convoy?
Doesn’t Mountain Electronic sell custom boards for lights?
How do you obtain a ramping interface?
I can’t help with the ramping. Member Tom e designed the narsil ramping firmware. Dbcustom might be able to help. Most of your replacement fet and buck drivers have modes. You can select what custom modes you want. Like 1%, 10, 30,60, 100 etc whatever you want. The ramping lights I have came like that. I usually just get the mode spacing programmed the way I want from Richard at mtn electronics. Basically the same places I would stop in ramping firmware
As far as I know you can only get tamping on lights with a e switch. You’d have to get another convoy c8 or s2 style light with a e switch as convoy doesn’t make one. I think sofirn makes one possibly. Ramping really isn’t my thing. Tom e might be able to make you a driver for the l6. Or the fet driver for it might be able to be reprogrammed for ramping. Single clicky lights are easy to build so most of the lights I MOD I stay with those. When things get complicated and expensive. I’ll send them off to be modded and pay someone to do it so I don’t mess it up. 20 dollar drivers can get expensive. I recently killed 2 drivers last week soldering on them. So if your not comfortable sometimes it’s cheaper to have someone do it for you
Actually, for the most part, the 1,10,30, 60, and 100 are exactly what I prefer and all my Convoy lights except the S2 do that. I have never quite figure out what the strobe was for….same thoughts I had about a laser dazzler. I suspect based on your experience that you would agree there are far more reliable means of self-defense. I think one can get a little more umph out of some of the Convoy lights from what I have been reading. The Astrolyte I like because of the Nichia219…I have some Forensics experience and having the best natural lighting is a must.