I’ve been using Xtar chargers exclusively since I really got into flashlights. I would definitely recommend them over Nitecore. The charging methods are better. Both HKJ and Richard from Mountain Electronics have personally recommended Xtar to me and I’ve been very happy. I know there are higher end chargers that may be better when you’re getting into hobby level chargers but you can get a nice Xtar for under $30. Just my two bits.
I don’t know 1/2 of what the previous posters know, but so far my Opus BT-C3100 appears to work nicely. I believe it will fit 4 26650 in the 4 bays, but only the outside 2 will charge at 2 amps but won’t do that when 3 or more bays are in use. I think it cost me under $50. It also does a bit more than just charging, does everything I need it to do and doesn’t require a lot of expertise. There are reviews of it here on BLF. If you look for one I think the latest software for it is V2.2.
I did have problems with one of the electrodes not making contact with one of the KeepPower 5200s. But a magnet quickly fixed that. BTW, it was shrink tubing on the battery that wasn’t fully shrunk (I assume) and holding the contact away from the battery. I might try to bend the electrode, heat the tubing with some heat, or just continue to use a magnet. I haven’t decided yet but I think doing nothing means that I’ll continue to use a magnet 
. I think that no matter which charger the battery went into the battery wrapper would have caused the problem.
+1 I’ve tried other brand chargers, and none of them come close to my VP1’s, VP2’s, and my SP1. Although I do like my very inexpensive Liitokala lii –100 for the price, it still it in no way compares to my Xtar’s. The only advantage is it does Eneloop’s which the Xtar’s I own don’t do.
+1
I have the XTAR SP2 now the SV2 and the XTAR VP2 and these were my first bought serious chargers; the VP2 can charge to 4.35 volts.
The MC3000 looks to be the best quality charger for multiple batteries of all sizes; it is one that I will be considering in the future.
As bench tool the Opus BT C100 charger is helpful for quick checks of the battery. It is selling for $11 at gearbest.
My VP2 is my favorite. It nicely and safely handles every cell I have so far from 10440 through 26650. I don’t own any 4.35V cells but it’s nice to know I can charge them if I ever have the need. I love the easy to read display and selectable charge current of 0.25, 0.50 and 1.0A. I suppose it would be nice to charge the big 26650 cells a little quicker but I’m not complaining. I’ll need to pick up at least one more charger before long and you can bet it’s going to be another Xtar. They have a handful that also charge NiMH cells so they would have the same versatility as their competitors “intelligent” chargers but with a better charging algorithm. I don’t know if it’s still going or not but Richard was running a sale on all or almost all Xtar chargers maybe a week ago and had some really good deals if you’re in the US.
maukka, is that hobby charger more difficult to operate? I have a horrible problem with memory issues and may or may not be able to remember how to work a complicated charger.
My TR-J20 has 3 of the 6000mAh 32650’s in it, the ability to charge all 3 at the same time with a high charge rate is probably worth the price of admission for that light alone. Being able to charge 4 26650’s simultaneously also has a very high appeal.
With some of todays very high capacity cells, it only makes sense to be able to charge more than two at a time due to the extreme length of time involved bringing these back up to a full state, having to wait that much time all over again for second set or a third cell really sucks.
True, some of the smaller less expensive chargers can do 2A to 2 cells, but that would mean needing 2 chargers to do 4 cells and they may not terminate the same, causing an imbalance in the 3 cell light, which would probably not be good with a 22A draw rate. This hobby just keeps getting more and more expensive, and of course I’ll just HAVE to purchase a clear anodized L6/L2/L1 when those become available. (I know I know, there is no L1, but I’m hoping….) 
The sale is no longer in effect, but Mountain Electronics is a good source of XTAR.
In addition to all of the advanced features the MC3000 has a dummy mode in which it only asks you to set the charging current. You can program the default current to whatever you like, so usually there’s no need to change any of the settings to charge cells.
I enjoy working with different chargers and have had quite a few; the RC3000 seem to have picked up where the Opus BT3100 V2.2 left off.
Even if you do not use the advanced features of the MC3000 the better designed fan is a step in the right direction for a multiple cell charger capable of over 4 amps.
I personally would rather have two twin bay chargers than one 4 bay charger. I do not use more than two cells in series, so the problem of which cell came from which charger is not a problem. I also appreciate if one of my chargers goes down, I can still charger charge batteries with other chargers.
I seem to enjoy collecting chargers and batteries as much as I do getting new flashlights.
I think the fan is the weakest point of the MC3000. Its noise profile is very annoying and I usually end up enhancing the cooling with an extra usb powered desk fan to keep it a bit quieter. On the other hand, it’s only usually running when discharging cells.
You gents are shameless, trying to get us to spend our money by doing this. I love it! LOL!
I do not like the Opus BT3100 V. 2.2 because of its fan but use the Opus BT- C100 for its functions minus a fan.
I had hoped the fan problem had been addressed with the MC3000, but if not I will stick with my two XTAR SP2 for 26650 batteries and two XTAR VP2 for my 1 amp charging of 18650’s including up to 4.35 volts.
Thank you for the update of the MC3000’s fan.
As this has turned into recommend a charger thread, my two cents worth is the Liitokaka Lii-500. The voltage reading is useful for matched pairs of 26650s for use in series.
thanks Maukka, interesting!
I’ve seriously been considering swapping an MT-G2 into my L6…. haven’t yet, but still thinking about it. The L6 is just such a sweet light the way it sits, kind of hate messing with it. Might wait for the clear anodized version and use it for this purpose.
I have my L6 teamed with my Fenix PD40 with the MT-G2 and it is a very nice combination. The PD40 is perfect for flood and the L6 reaches where the PD40 does not.
If you want a really simple way to charge at high currents grab one of these:
Then set it up to automatically come on at 4.2 volts and whatever amperage you want. It will then take care of the charging by simply switching it on. With the ability to run 15 amps you should have no issues with total currant. I would add another fan to it though if charging at high currents for extended periods of time.
I have been using the 12amp version of that power supply to charge my batteries.
The only disadvantage is not having the mah readout on how much it put into the battery or the temperature cutoff that my hobby charger has. The mah reading you can get by using another gauge that the same store offers. Although not a big deal really, you just want to know if it is charged. The temperature cutoff is also not a problem as long as you know what batteries you are charging and don’t try to charge them too fast.
The hobby charger is also another great option, this is how I do most of mine simply because the power supply is on another desk and I only use it when needed. It is limited to 6 amps on my $25 version but since I have a bank made up to charge 14 cells at a time, and I have spares to use while they charge, so I just set it to charge and forget it. I generally charge all my lights up all at once.
And with it requiring a DC power supply in, where am I supposed to get the input source? For someone like me, this is a good way to start a fire…
I feel I am using much more than my share when I use more than 4 amps at a time for most anything these days.
There are tons of options on ebay. If you have skills to build flashlight drivers a power supply should be easy. Just a matter of picking out what option works for you.
I mounted mine in an acrylic box and use a 48v power supply from ebay on one of them. The other is mounted inside an ATX power supply, it works great but is limited to 11 volts output.