With L2 and 2 26350 and LD M2 with 9A
measured 6,5A at the tailcap.
Thanks Andi
Regards Xandre
Any word yet on the smooth reflector J-DUB74?
Xandre , have you measured the amp draw with 2×26650 ?
Yep
It was 8,3 with the LD2 (9A)
at the tail
Regards Xandre
Thank you !
A standard FET driver should also do, I measured in true direct drive:
With Keeppower 5200 protected (short ones): 9.3 Amps,
with Efan 18650 Highdrain: 11.7 Amps, good for about 4700 lumens (N2 bin),
with 26350 from Banggood: 8 Amps.
Mike? The protected Keeppowers allow 9+A?
And something seems off on the lumens stated, I’m getting 4600 lumens from mine at 6.3A at the tail. 11.7A should be well over 5000, close to 6.
We (Andi and me) measured max 4300 Lumen at 8,3A tail
with a calibrated integrating sphere
Regards Xandre
Yes, 9.3 Amps at the tail, and keeps high for quite a while. The Keeppower are decent. I can’t do exact lumen measurements, only roughly estimate in my “Guest-toilet-Integrating-Cube”. The XHP70 is a N2 bin, though.
My lux measurements are more exact, 106400 Cd at 11.7 Amps with Efan 18650 30A.
All measurements with fresh cells directly after switching on, not after 30 seconds.
Ineresting Xandre. I use a calibrated light box as well. What method did you use to determine current? I know my light should still be higher in lumens because I’ve swapped out the emitter with an N4 on a 31mm MaxToch mcpcb, but I wouldn’t have thought it would be all that much different.
Mike, I’ve seen an FET driver do similar amps through an XHP-70 as well, but in my case it was in a much larger reflector and making ~6400 lumens. I know tint bins also cut down on the lumens, so going from a blue/white cool emitter to a candlelight warm white will definitely cost lumens, by the hundreds. ( swapped to a High CRI daylight white and lost some 800 lumens or so)
My numbers are more in line with this as well, stock I measured right around ~3000 lumens for both the L6 and S70 running ~35-38 watts (around 4.5-5A depending on battery voltage).
Modded to 55-60watts (around 6.5-7 amps depending on battery voltage) I am now reading about ~3500-3600 lumens.
Extrapolated out that lines up pretty close to your numbers at 8.3A once you factor in the efficiency losses.
What were your stock readings?
I am using Josh’s standard sphere calibration.
I thought you were using a P2 bin XHP70? Still a bit extreme of a gain though.
I have the 3A version if that makes a difference and mine came from Banggood.
Ugh, gotta check but TA you’re probably right… the P2 is the highest bin of late? I got it from Cutter. Dang memory is totally screwed…
We do not measured orginal one.
No intress :sunglasses:
Just a joke,at this time the integrating sphere was not around.
Regards Xandre
LOL, I loose track of things like that as well. I was actually searching and found this post Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast! - #940 by DB_Custom
So it looks like it was a P2 and a cooler emitter as well. Although 1000 lumens seems a bit extreme.
I know the feeling, I have tons of data from my calibrated sphere that is now almost useless. Thankfully DB donated a sphere so now I am starting to get some worthwhile data stored up.
So far I have been very happy with the readings I am getting, I was doing some bare LED tests last week and the readings were lining up spot on the Cree data sheets.
I moved away from using protected batteries and I am using Shockli 4200mh batteries (67.5mm length).
If the amp draw is seeming higher then first thought, were the prescribed use of ‘protected-batteries’ by manufacturer and seller mostly an issue of ‘product liability’ and not using the full potential of the L6?
I went to HJK 26650 Battery Comparator and at 10 amps the keeppower 5200mAh protected battery does not even show results at 10 amps while the Shockli 4200mAh does show results.
What is one to make from this observation?
The amp draw you read at the tail is really meaningless on the L6 as it uses a buck driver.
I tested it with a power supply and it keeps a constant wattage output in the ~38 watt range except for a spike in wattage that happens right around 7.5V or so. At that point wattage jumps to around ~42 watts.
So the battery you use will have basically no effect on overall output regardless of amp draw seen at the tail. In fact lower amp readings are better as that means voltage is higher.
sidecross, that’s most likely the case. Think about it, you make a light that is going to appeal to the masses, guaranteed, but said masses are not necessarily equipped to handle the full blown version of your new creation. Isn’t it far better to give safe sage advise for the masses and let those more experienced run their own course?
I have come close to doing a giveaway on a light I built but backed off for the same reason. I build em to run on the line, quite a few people might not understand that and a random drawing could easily find the one guy that’d blow a light up. I got enough problems without having to worry about something like that, or a little kid getting burned, so I didn’t do the giveaway and in fact have recently sold that particular light to a member here who is well versed with hot rods. 